52 replies to this topic

[Rampage]

Sorry I wasn't able to get you pictures. I found my problem and decided to go further into the motor and found serious engine damage.... which meant I was busy doing a head job right up until I went camping, hence my absense.

However, I do have the Devac pictures for you:



You need to remove the small and large hoses that lead from the black box to the intake manifold and plug the ports on the manifold itself. If you don't have AC, there should be two plugs readily available right near the middle of the manifold.... there are two that plug a pipe that is unused on non-AC cars. For the larger, I used a 3/8 fuel line and an appropriate sized bolt.

After that, you can remove the three colour coded hoses from the ports under the manifold, yellow, blue, and red. Blue is a throttle dampener diaphram, yellow is cold timing advance, and red is the charcoal canister. Its summer and about 25 degrees Celsius out, and the car doesn't have a fast idle (further modifications have been done to cancel out the fast idle valve) and the motor still runs well.

At the very least you can remove the lines to see if it makes a difference. You need to keep the black box electrical connectors on to prevent throwing a code, or you can open the box and remove the valve that needs to be retained. I have seen it, but not done it, so I have no further information.


Now, having read your posts, 55-60psi fuel pressure is waaaay too high. I would check for a restricted return line (both steel and rubber) as well as your fuel pressure regulator.

Keep us updated.

Cheers,
Mark

[jordanh420]

Rampage-

THanks for the devac pics, I'll try that tommorow. As for the injector on #3 cylinder and the bad compression.....I think I'm pulling the head off tommorow after i try the devac. But I still think compression is bad and causing it to run like ass. Thanks for the help.

[phuber]

I had a similar problem and found the solution to be replacement of the temperature sensor.

[jordanh420]

I had a similar problem and found the solution to be replacement of the temperature sensor.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I've already tried that....no go.

[jordanh420]

UPDATE!!! SHE RUNS!!!! Turns out, when we put the new head on, I set the crank pulley to the middle of the three hashes for timing. Moved it to the TDC mark and she fired right up (sorry scott lol). Just gotta put everything back together and set the timing. Thanks for all the help.

[Rampage]

Good to hear! When I did the head job on my motor I had some advice from a seasoned vet for guidance, and he said that was a very common mistake. Of course we make mistakes so that we can learn from them. Like not de-vaccing my motor and missing the obvious problem for over a year. Have fun!

Cheers,
Mark

[jordanh420]

Got the timing all dialed in and this car runs beautifuly. Such a releif to have this car on the road. Thanks guys

[mordantly]

Good to hear! When I did the head job on my motor I had some advice from a seasoned vet for guidance, and he said that was a very common mistake. Of course we make mistakes so that we can learn from them. Like not de-vaccing my motor and missing the obvious problem for over a year. Have fun!

Cheers,
Mark

lucky frickers.. you don't have to worry about emissions or do they not care how you do it as long as the pipe blow clean??

Callyfornia when they have their way at smog, tells me ANY mod that is not OEM except my headers and coil that have eo #s is a FAIL. So why can't I have different cams, adj gears, adj fpr, larger fuel rail, etc?? It's not like she doesn't blow lemon fresh scent.

how does the motor perform without the control box? I have the cold adv plugged as my PG7 holds the valve open all the time, so I'm aware of crappy COLD performance. What else is lost? The idle control, part of the charcoal filter or whatever the hell that is.. did you remove all those too??

Edited by mordantly, 07 January 2007 - 01:53 PM.