36 replies to this topic

[A-Man]

sweet thats a bit of a score i didnt realise they were a real 2 peice

[OG Wagon]

Hey, just found this thread while doing a search through my started threads.

I wanted to update to all, being that it has been half a year since "the incident" post-assembly.

Close to 7,000 miles later, with no bolt loosening, its safe to say that RED loctite DOES work. So, reassembly rules for Mugen MR5's:

(1) Tighten each bolt in criss-cross fashion.
(2) Use a liberal amount of RED loctite on each bolt. NOT BLUE!!!!
(3) Torque down by hand if you wish, just go as tight as you think the seats/threads can take. You will know when to stop, unless you are a complete moron.
(4) Go back three times total on each bolt, same criss-cross pattern
(5) Drive a bit, 5-10 miles. Stop.
(6) Re-tighten each bolt. They will probably still be OK, but good to check just to make sure.

Notice: Some have said to use a torque-wrench. I suppose it couldn't hurt, though I don't know the exact torque spec. I have heard everytihng from 10lbs to 32 lbs. per inch. No one really knows. So, I say just use common-sense-torque by hand!

[Old School REX]

The best advice comes from experience.... sounds like you have it now OG! Glad they are all working out.

[zakats]

I think a bigger problem was the fact that you had fusion tires (me being a smartass)

[Lymitliss]

I had no idea they were two piece! So basically you can change the tire yourself huh? Unbolt the wheel, pry the tire off, sandwich the new tire and fill it up to seat the bead?

[Old School REX]

I had no idea they were two piece! So basically you can change the tire yourself huh? Unbolt the wheel, pry the tire off, sandwich the new tire and fill it up to seat the bead?

No, the only thing the "two pieces" separate is the face from the rim. If you look in the restoration photos he took, he never dis-mounted the tires when he separated the face from the outer ring to paint them.

[asianflava]

Notice: Some have said to use a torque-wrench. I suppose it couldn't hurt, though I don't know the exact torque spec. I have heard everytihng from 10lbs to 32 lbs. per inch. No one really knows. So, I say just use common-sense-torque by hand!

The calibrated wrist method huh? jk

There are standard torque values for bolts based on their grade, size, and thread pitch. Here is a chart, print it out and tape it to your tool box. I have one next to a tap/drill chart.

http://www.imperiali...orqueCharts.pdf