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2
I Just Got A Hf Crx 84 Can I Do A B18 Swap?
Started by jdmcraig, Jun 26 2004 02:31 AM
43 replies to this topic
#31
Posted 27 June 2004 - 02:27 PM
#32
Posted 27 June 2004 - 02:31 PM
QUOTE (Aren D. @ Jun 27 2004, 03:00 PM)
the easyest motor is a si d15a3 motor you will have a drastic change in preformance also the motor code is in one of two spots it could be on the front of the motor under the head but follow the line of the bell housing it will be stamped on a flat square part of the block< if it is not there then it will be on the back of the motor under the head stamped on a flat square part of the block if you follow the line from the bell housing. also you say your motor is a old POS well dose it still run?
Aren D.: This is one of the most longest sentences i have ever read.
#33
Posted 27 June 2004 - 03:12 PM
#34
Posted 27 June 2004 - 04:05 PM
Let me try and answer. I have converted an 84 CRX to FI and swaped a B16A into my 86 CRX.
1) Does HASport makes mounts for your car, YES.
2) No one else makes a quality mount for the 1st gen other then HASport
3) Every motor swap will require you to convert to Fuel injection. Change the fuel pickup that is in the tank to one from an 85-87 Civic or CRX SI. Mount an external universal pump & filter and run a steal braded line to the engine compartment to feed the motor. Then use the original feed line as your return. This will insure the motor gets plenty of fuel. Next youll need to all the harnesses from the dash forward. Easiest way is just to get an SI dash with all of the wiring since you will need the fuse box and relays. Engine harness will depend on what motor you go with.
4) After you convert to FI you can do a D series (ZC) motor, as mentioned its the easiest or a B series. B series are just more expensive and more to install.
5) Your motor is eather a 1.3L or 1.5L. If you do a lookup on your vin you can figure that out or the code on the block.
7) Go to HASport.com for a list of required parts and prices to see roughly what a swap will run you.
8) Which D series there are several. But for the most part yes.
SIDE NOTE. Stay with the cable trans setup. Hasport makes the adapter the mounts to the trans. so the hydro actuator will work on a cable. BUT they do not make the mount. The trans mount on a hydro is in a different location then on the cable trans. I was just at HASport last week talking with them about a hydro mount and they said they still were not considering making one.
None of the info above is gospil or the only way to do it, just what I have done.
1) Does HASport makes mounts for your car, YES.
2) No one else makes a quality mount for the 1st gen other then HASport
3) Every motor swap will require you to convert to Fuel injection. Change the fuel pickup that is in the tank to one from an 85-87 Civic or CRX SI. Mount an external universal pump & filter and run a steal braded line to the engine compartment to feed the motor. Then use the original feed line as your return. This will insure the motor gets plenty of fuel. Next youll need to all the harnesses from the dash forward. Easiest way is just to get an SI dash with all of the wiring since you will need the fuse box and relays. Engine harness will depend on what motor you go with.
4) After you convert to FI you can do a D series (ZC) motor, as mentioned its the easiest or a B series. B series are just more expensive and more to install.
5) Your motor is eather a 1.3L or 1.5L. If you do a lookup on your vin you can figure that out or the code on the block.
7) Go to HASport.com for a list of required parts and prices to see roughly what a swap will run you.
8) Which D series there are several. But for the most part yes.
SIDE NOTE. Stay with the cable trans setup. Hasport makes the adapter the mounts to the trans. so the hydro actuator will work on a cable. BUT they do not make the mount. The trans mount on a hydro is in a different location then on the cable trans. I was just at HASport last week talking with them about a hydro mount and they said they still were not considering making one.
None of the info above is gospil or the only way to do it, just what I have done.
Victor
86 K24 Powered CRX SI (HPDE-4 NASA & TA-AB Time Attack)
85 CRX DX totally original
07 Harley FXST Softail
2021 Tacoma Tow/Daily
#35
Posted 27 June 2004 - 09:42 PM
Is it possible that the engine was cast iron, and not aluminum? This might explain the weight difference. I can't imagine why an HF would have a 300 pound engine though....
"Toby, you are a thief of joy"
#36
Posted 27 June 2004 - 09:51 PM
thats the only thing i can think of tom. i cant see why it would have such a heavy engine in a hf expecially. it only makes sense logically that if they are the same material that the bigger one would be heavier. thats the point i was trying to make, they must be made from different materials because i seen the suspension difference and lifted both motors. or maybe my front end raised up because i put the light hf wheels back on it
When I die, i want to go asleep peaceful.......... not screaming and freaking out like everyone else in the car
"i left the bar a little after you and ended up flipping my car in the arbys drive thru"
IM A LOSER!!! my car pulls harder when spinning than any "highly modified" EW
Team BUrnOUt founding member
"i left the bar a little after you and ended up flipping my car in the arbys drive thru"
QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Dec 10 2008, 03:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Another loser who can not get traction. I feel sorry for him.
IM A LOSER!!! my car pulls harder when spinning than any "highly modified" EW
Team BUrnOUt founding member
#37
Posted 28 June 2004 - 04:22 AM
Okay... The cv's i used that worked and are setup to the hasport intermediate shafts are 86-89 inner and outer cv's. Linkage is lengthened about half an inch.. And yes use hasport mounts there are the best, nicest, smoothest, or whatever the hell you want to say about them. Use a 99-2000 civic rear mount for the rear hasport mount. Put a huge old mother suckin ball lickin dent in the side of the frame rail were the alternator will be. This swap is a pain in the ass. Be prepared and if it is your daily driver I suggest you get another car. Oh and also dont be a smart ass, cuss at us call me or any of these nice gentlemen dumb fucks or whatever because, you looked like a big dumb fuck throwing a tantrum.. Buy the way this site KICKS ASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You guys all rock.
#38
Posted 29 June 2004 - 01:07 AM
QUOTE
i want my fuckign questions answerd not here you argue about a SOHC is lighter then a DOHC... bla bla bla... you guys are fucking gay... i dont give a flying fuck!!!!
Dude..I'd hate to beat a dead horse, but that's just stupid.
Okay. You want to put a new engine in your car. But you DON'T care about the extra weight penalties of doing this? What effect it will have on your suspension, and overall on the car's balance itself?
I've got two words that fit you nicely.
Typical Ricer.
Go buy a Focus and sell your 1g to someone who can appreciate it.
#39
Posted 04 September 2006 - 02:10 PM
QUOTE (C_piddy @ Jun 27 2004, 12:34 AM)
you don't know what your talking about.
the ew 1.3l motor is lighter then the zc, the zc is lighter then the b16. i think you should search around a bit more. posting info when you don't know just confuses people.
search, and you will find that mostly everyone on here who has a b16 swap or b any b swap has upgraded their tortion bars.
there have been many posts on the weights of these motors. b series is definatly heavyer... what;s the hp on an hf? what's the hp on the b16 160 to 170 hp... the hf was made to be extremely fuel efficent and everywhere honda could loose some weight, they did. plastic valve cover, hell look at the pic boman posted, that exhaust mani is so tiney, look at preformance headers on a b16 b18 engines. huge difference.
alot of people converted there aluminum rear drums to heavy dx drums... that's the only advantage, with drums... they're lighter. disks are easyer to maintain and look cooler, considering the crx never got rear disks... definatly acool mod.
chris
the ew 1.3l motor is lighter then the zc, the zc is lighter then the b16. i think you should search around a bit more. posting info when you don't know just confuses people.
search, and you will find that mostly everyone on here who has a b16 swap or b any b swap has upgraded their tortion bars.
there have been many posts on the weights of these motors. b series is definatly heavyer... what;s the hp on an hf? what's the hp on the b16 160 to 170 hp... the hf was made to be extremely fuel efficent and everywhere honda could loose some weight, they did. plastic valve cover, hell look at the pic boman posted, that exhaust mani is so tiney, look at preformance headers on a b16 b18 engines. huge difference.
alot of people converted there aluminum rear drums to heavy dx drums... that's the only advantage, with drums... they're lighter. disks are easyer to maintain and look cooler, considering the crx never got rear disks... definatly acool mod.
chris
maybe this site can help questions and arguements..
http://www.answers.c.../honda-b-engine
#40
Posted 04 September 2006 - 02:52 PM
WOW! over 2 years and 14,000 hard miles later and i still stand beside everything i stated in this thread previously. i have not broken one part or had to fix anything (with the exception of using the incorrect 1G integra inner cv joint that broke because of being too short of a cup.....dont do that) and my front end still sits about 1 inch higher than it did before the swap. i think we as a community have learned a lot about the B series swap since the summer of '04 and have much better information for the people attempting it now.
who's laughing now?
who's laughing now?
When I die, i want to go asleep peaceful.......... not screaming and freaking out like everyone else in the car
"i left the bar a little after you and ended up flipping my car in the arbys drive thru"
IM A LOSER!!! my car pulls harder when spinning than any "highly modified" EW
Team BUrnOUt founding member
"i left the bar a little after you and ended up flipping my car in the arbys drive thru"
QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Dec 10 2008, 03:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Another loser who can not get traction. I feel sorry for him.
IM A LOSER!!! my car pulls harder when spinning than any "highly modified" EW
Team BUrnOUt founding member
#41
Posted 05 September 2006 - 01:20 AM
wow....this is the most hostile thread i've ever seen on rpr....
did we become hondatech, or automotiveforums.com since my last visit?....
dude,chill out,you'll find all the answers you're lookin' for here...if you take the time to look.
mother-fucking everyone is,infact,counter-productive......
the B-swap has been done several times,and maybe some did it differently than others,but if you ask the right questions,you'll get the right answers.
peace.
did we become hondatech, or automotiveforums.com since my last visit?....
dude,chill out,you'll find all the answers you're lookin' for here...if you take the time to look.
mother-fucking everyone is,infact,counter-productive......
the B-swap has been done several times,and maybe some did it differently than others,but if you ask the right questions,you'll get the right answers.
peace.
Edited by rileyescobar, 05 September 2006 - 01:20 AM.
no,it isn't "too rusty"....now sweep it up,and let's talk price
#42
Posted 05 September 2006 - 02:02 AM
wow, bring back a crappy old thread like this for an " I told you so"
I am doing an lsvtec swap and I think I know why the front end sits higher when installed.
the bseries engine and trans are much heavier, guaranteed. I have two b's and two ews on the floor right now, I can weigh them on request. The bulk of the weight with the b is quite a bit further back than the ew. think about it, the front of both engines sit at almost the same exact place, so logically the extra bulk is more rearward. the bulge of the tranny itself sits almost four inches back from the ew trans in the compartment. when weight is moved towards the center of the car, front suspension loading becomes lighter.
with all of this thread moving on here lateley, can someone please move this thread to honda-tech, where it belongs??
I am doing an lsvtec swap and I think I know why the front end sits higher when installed.
the bseries engine and trans are much heavier, guaranteed. I have two b's and two ews on the floor right now, I can weigh them on request. The bulk of the weight with the b is quite a bit further back than the ew. think about it, the front of both engines sit at almost the same exact place, so logically the extra bulk is more rearward. the bulge of the tranny itself sits almost four inches back from the ew trans in the compartment. when weight is moved towards the center of the car, front suspension loading becomes lighter.
with all of this thread moving on here lateley, can someone please move this thread to honda-tech, where it belongs??
#43
Posted 05 September 2006 - 05:09 PM
QUOTE (evilGearhead @ Sep 5 2006, 02:02 AM)
wow, bring back a crappy old thread like this for an " I told you so"
I am doing an lsvtec swap and I think I know why the front end sits higher when installed.
the bseries engine and trans are much heavier, guaranteed. I have two b's and two ews on the floor right now, I can weigh them on request. The bulk of the weight with the b is quite a bit further back than the ew. think about it, the front of both engines sit at almost the same exact place, so logically the extra bulk is more rearward. the bulge of the tranny itself sits almost four inches back from the ew trans in the compartment. when weight is moved towards the center of the car, front suspension loading becomes lighter.
with all of this thread moving on here lateley, can someone please move this thread to honda-tech, where it belongs??
I am doing an lsvtec swap and I think I know why the front end sits higher when installed.
the bseries engine and trans are much heavier, guaranteed. I have two b's and two ews on the floor right now, I can weigh them on request. The bulk of the weight with the b is quite a bit further back than the ew. think about it, the front of both engines sit at almost the same exact place, so logically the extra bulk is more rearward. the bulge of the tranny itself sits almost four inches back from the ew trans in the compartment. when weight is moved towards the center of the car, front suspension loading becomes lighter.
with all of this thread moving on here lateley, can someone please move this thread to honda-tech, where it belongs??
im not the guy that brought the thread back....
with that said, i dont believe i ever really specified that the B was lighter, just that my suspension sits higher which means that the suspension isnt being effected the way that you would think with a heavier engine. now, if what you are saying with weight and location is true evilgearhead, can we also assume that cornering and such isnt effected as much since it's pretty much moved rearward (to an extent) and would balance out?
i think it was RPR that suggested that since all us B swappers are swapping to the 1G integra knuckles that possibly they have a different measurement from balljoint to center of axle which could effect the height. i have never measured this but he just might be onto something.
When I die, i want to go asleep peaceful.......... not screaming and freaking out like everyone else in the car
"i left the bar a little after you and ended up flipping my car in the arbys drive thru"
IM A LOSER!!! my car pulls harder when spinning than any "highly modified" EW
Team BUrnOUt founding member
"i left the bar a little after you and ended up flipping my car in the arbys drive thru"
QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Dec 10 2008, 03:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Another loser who can not get traction. I feel sorry for him.
IM A LOSER!!! my car pulls harder when spinning than any "highly modified" EW
Team BUrnOUt founding member
#44
Posted 05 September 2006 - 06:58 PM
I dont understand why everyone is continuing to help this guy after that long rant.
86 crx