Nice job Julian, looks great. Keep the updates coming.
7
My New Crx
Started by 87MugenProCR-X, Mar 25 2007 09:41 PM
106 replies to this topic
#31
Posted 05 April 2007 - 11:32 PM
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#32
Posted 05 April 2007 - 11:45 PM
#33
Posted 06 April 2007 - 07:32 PM
very nice i was wondering why and how you ran your fuel line ???? and not use the stock lines ???
My Webpage
(quote by RareCrx)HAVE A MADD TYTE DIGGITY DOGG ,BUBBLES SPRAYIN ON THE INTERCOOLER, poopin ON A 8 SECOND CHEVELLE WITH MY MINI-ME SWAP DAY..
#34
Posted 06 April 2007 - 09:29 PM
I cut the stock hardline underneath the dash and ran braided line with AN fitting from there. This was done to hide the fuel pump which is mounted under the dash, along with a host of other items. The fuel system I am planning on redoing, maybe in the next couple of weeks.
And yes Brian, Get your car out of the CHOP SHOP.
Julian
And yes Brian, Get your car out of the CHOP SHOP.
Julian
#35
Posted 10 April 2007 - 01:59 AM
QUOTE (87MugenProCR-X @ Apr 6 2007, 06:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I cut the stock hardline underneath the dash and ran braided line with AN fitting from there. This was done to hide the fuel pump which is mounted under the dash, along with a host of other items. The fuel system I am planning on redoing, maybe in the next couple of weeks.
And yes Brian, Get your car out of the CHOP SHOP.
Julian
And yes Brian, Get your car out of the CHOP SHOP.
Julian
hey julian, dave from elsinore, i wanted to clean up my engine bay too and was wondering where u put your fuse box and battery,, thanks
#36
Posted 10 April 2007 - 12:47 PM
Hey Dave,
The fuse box and coil are both underneath the dash, behind the glove box. You will need to remove the climate control system to accomplish this. The battery is in the "personal trunk" or so they call it. I'll get some better shots of the locations for you tonight.
Julian
The fuse box and coil are both underneath the dash, behind the glove box. You will need to remove the climate control system to accomplish this. The battery is in the "personal trunk" or so they call it. I'll get some better shots of the locations for you tonight.
Julian
#37
Posted 10 April 2007 - 08:45 PM
#38
Posted 10 April 2007 - 10:49 PM
Yes unfortunatly, the dyno charts are on page 2. We picked up about 300 more RPM but is still about 500-1000RPM from what is advertised. I may end up switching.
Julian
Julian
#39
Posted 11 April 2007 - 07:55 AM
QUOTE (87MugenProCR-X @ Apr 10 2007, 01:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hey Dave,
The fuse box and coil are both underneath the dash, behind the glove box. You will need to remove the climate control system to accomplish this. The battery is in the "personal trunk" or so they call it. I'll get some better shots of the locations for you tonight.
Julian
The fuse box and coil are both underneath the dash, behind the glove box. You will need to remove the climate control system to accomplish this. The battery is in the "personal trunk" or so they call it. I'll get some better shots of the locations for you tonight.
Julian
Updates? I'm in the middle of this right now...
"If Honda does not race there is no Honda." -Soichiro Honda
#40
Posted 11 April 2007 - 01:11 PM
Steve,
Here are the pics of the battery relocation,
With my measurements it came out to 10 feet of 4 gauge wire for the positive cable and I just used a generic negative with the ends already soldered on. I also used about 8 feet of 8 gauge wire for the lead going to the 55A main fuse where the battery gets its charge from the alternator. I am currently in the process of making a tie down for the battery.
Here is a picture of where the coil went,
For this i just used a extra coil high tension wire which was laying around from an MSD wire install for another customer, but I think the Si coil wire should have sufficient length as well. Since I am using an Si distributor, the wires from the ignitor were already plenty long and i just ran them through the firewall. I did however have to cut open the harness and move the primary side power lead and the tach wire to behind the firewall(not too difficult). Im trying to find a better place to hide this one. The fuse box is zip tied right behind the glove box, only because I bolted it down and the the plastic peice of the fuse panel broke. Excuse the wires they will all be removed once I find the looms I want to rewire and tuck my wires with.
Good luck Steve,
Julian
Here are the pics of the battery relocation,
With my measurements it came out to 10 feet of 4 gauge wire for the positive cable and I just used a generic negative with the ends already soldered on. I also used about 8 feet of 8 gauge wire for the lead going to the 55A main fuse where the battery gets its charge from the alternator. I am currently in the process of making a tie down for the battery.
Here is a picture of where the coil went,
For this i just used a extra coil high tension wire which was laying around from an MSD wire install for another customer, but I think the Si coil wire should have sufficient length as well. Since I am using an Si distributor, the wires from the ignitor were already plenty long and i just ran them through the firewall. I did however have to cut open the harness and move the primary side power lead and the tach wire to behind the firewall(not too difficult). Im trying to find a better place to hide this one. The fuse box is zip tied right behind the glove box, only because I bolted it down and the the plastic peice of the fuse panel broke. Excuse the wires they will all be removed once I find the looms I want to rewire and tuck my wires with.
Good luck Steve,
Julian
#41
Posted 11 April 2007 - 01:37 PM
I've had my batt relocated for a while now... under the pass seat...
That looks like it's right at where the main harness passes through. I've been hesitant to hack that area up. I suppose I should just do it and get that stuff pulled through the hole... I can re-mount my MSD 6AL and Blaster coil there, too.
Are the 3 big plugs that are on the rail under the brake prop valve still there?
Thanks!
That looks like it's right at where the main harness passes through. I've been hesitant to hack that area up. I suppose I should just do it and get that stuff pulled through the hole... I can re-mount my MSD 6AL and Blaster coil there, too.
Are the 3 big plugs that are on the rail under the brake prop valve still there?
Thanks!
QUOTE (87MugenProCR-X @ Apr 11 2007, 02:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Steve,
Here are the pics of the battery relocation,
Here is a picture of where the coil went,
For this i just used a extra coil high tension wire which was laying around from an MSD wire install for another customer, but I think the Si coil wire should have sufficient length as well. Since I am using an Si distributor, the wires from the ignitor were already plenty long and i just ran them through the firewall. I did however have to cut open the harness and move the primary side power lead and the tach wire to behind the firewall(not too difficult). Im trying to find a better place to hide this one. The fuse box is zip tied right behind the glove box, only because I bolted it down and the the plastic peice of the fuse panel broke. Excuse the wires they will all be removed once I find the looms I want to rewire and tuck my wires with.
Good luck Steve,
Julian
Here are the pics of the battery relocation,
Here is a picture of where the coil went,
For this i just used a extra coil high tension wire which was laying around from an MSD wire install for another customer, but I think the Si coil wire should have sufficient length as well. Since I am using an Si distributor, the wires from the ignitor were already plenty long and i just ran them through the firewall. I did however have to cut open the harness and move the primary side power lead and the tach wire to behind the firewall(not too difficult). Im trying to find a better place to hide this one. The fuse box is zip tied right behind the glove box, only because I bolted it down and the the plastic peice of the fuse panel broke. Excuse the wires they will all be removed once I find the looms I want to rewire and tuck my wires with.
Good luck Steve,
Julian
"If Honda does not race there is no Honda." -Soichiro Honda
#42
Posted 11 April 2007 - 07:55 PM
Yes, the plugs near the Prop. valve are still there. I split the loom and ran the wires with the other wires into the firewall, pretty straight forward.
I have a question for you Steve, you mention that you have an MSD 6AL equipped in your car. I've been looking into this to get more adjustment with my ignition and the rev limiter seems like a good idea as well. What kind of capabilities does this unit have? Any curve adjustments? Top end retard? I was told there were add ons for this particular model not sure what those are. I tried contacting MSD directly but have received no response Guess they don't want my buisness.
Julian
I have a question for you Steve, you mention that you have an MSD 6AL equipped in your car. I've been looking into this to get more adjustment with my ignition and the rev limiter seems like a good idea as well. What kind of capabilities does this unit have? Any curve adjustments? Top end retard? I was told there were add ons for this particular model not sure what those are. I tried contacting MSD directly but have received no response Guess they don't want my buisness.
Julian
#43
Posted 12 April 2007 - 07:32 AM
The MSD 6AL is just an ignition amplifier, afaik. The only thing you can change on it is where the rev limiter steps in... You can use any of the MSD adustable timing controllers or computers with the 6AL.
Looks like the MSD 8981 would work well for you. Summit's got em for $240.
http://www.msdigniti...ies_113-129.pdf
If you want it all in one box, I think you need to go to the Programable Digital-7...
Looks like the MSD 8981 would work well for you. Summit's got em for $240.
http://www.msdigniti...ies_113-129.pdf
If you want it all in one box, I think you need to go to the Programable Digital-7...
"If Honda does not race there is no Honda." -Soichiro Honda
#44
Posted 16 April 2007 - 05:44 PM
QUOTE (87MugenProCR-X @ Mar 25 2007, 09:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Most of you have seen my white car which I have owned for 2 years. Last year I purchased another CR-X for $900 from Brea, CA. It is a '84 Honda CR-X DX, pretty much completely stock. It has come a long way to this day and thankfully I know have an Integra GS-R to take over driving duties, so that i can conduct the work that I would like on my car without stressing over time. I would like to use this thread to document its progress as much as possible. Here are the pictures up to this point...
Initial condition,
A few Interior modifications, 88-91 CR-X seats, authentic Mugen steering wheel and Si center console,
Then a few cosmetic modifications including lowering, OEM Dx lip, Mugen NR10 wheels 15x6 +45 offset w/Kumho tires,OEM Euro smoked corners w/OEM side markers and Mr.D's ZC style OEM length hood,
I would also like to take this time to thank all those who were involved in this project, espeacially all the friends here at RPR who have helped me physically and informativly along the way. I'd also like to take this time to thank the shops who have helped me and the people who runs these shops. I feel sometimes that honest, professional, and down to earth shops are growing extinct and I think this is in turn hurting the industry and its growth.
A big thanks to,
Ronald at AeroDuo
Bisi at Bisimoto engineering
Geoff at Colt Cams
Marcus at Heeltoeauto.com
Robert at Monkeyz-Tek
Julian
Initial condition,
A few Interior modifications, 88-91 CR-X seats, authentic Mugen steering wheel and Si center console,
Then a few cosmetic modifications including lowering, OEM Dx lip, Mugen NR10 wheels 15x6 +45 offset w/Kumho tires,OEM Euro smoked corners w/OEM side markers and Mr.D's ZC style OEM length hood,
I would also like to take this time to thank all those who were involved in this project, espeacially all the friends here at RPR who have helped me physically and informativly along the way. I'd also like to take this time to thank the shops who have helped me and the people who runs these shops. I feel sometimes that honest, professional, and down to earth shops are growing extinct and I think this is in turn hurting the industry and its growth.
A big thanks to,
Ronald at AeroDuo
Bisi at Bisimoto engineering
Geoff at Colt Cams
Marcus at Heeltoeauto.com
Robert at Monkeyz-Tek
Julian
Wow that car is very nice,I live near Rancho ( i lived there ) but,where do u find parts for these EA's???? its hard,everything is EF,EG.
any good sites for suspension and motor upgrades?
i kinda want a EA hb cuz there cheap for a DD/fun car. I rather keep my 05 ep2 stock,i like it how it is.
i just want a sites that has springs/coilovers for these cars.and everything like motors so on.
but again very nice car,u still have the white one?
#45
Posted 28 April 2007 - 07:15 PM
Just realized I never mentioned the suspension modifications.
The car is riding on Tokico Illumina shocks at all 4 corners currently(all set to 5), the front springs are 27.5mm Tbars from the late Lightspeed Racing Co., rear springs are the Monkeyz-Tek coilover with a 350lbs spring, stock front bar and welded rear bar. The bushings are stock(currently waiting for bamcrxgp to reproduce his delrin LCA bushings). The brakes are Integra's in the front and stock cast drums on the rear. Porterfeild R4-S compound pads(excellent pad, wonders compared the AEM pad I was using), Brembo replacement rotors and Techna-Fit SS lines all around with Motul 5.1 fluid.
The car handles very well with this combination. My previous CR-X was equipped with virtually the same set up(with the addition of Poly bushings) and never handled like this car. The rear often broke loose under breaking and at apex. With this set up in the red car, it rotates wonderfully. I suspect this has to do with the weight that has been dropped in the front helping to balance the body(white car was gutted and nearly untouched on the front end). I'd really like to get it on the scales and corner weigh this thing but need to get the blown shocks taken care of first.
The only update I have as of now is my front shocks have been sent to Koni North America as of a little over a week ago. They should be back in about 5 weeks after being shortened, revalved and converted to double adjustable. This will really help my front end since the right side shock is blown. I'm still currently looking for a EW AWD Wagon block to build upon. There will be many updates and many more horses once I get this peice.
Thanx for the nice words. As you already know from your personal experience aftermarket is very limited here. Search on the site for suspension upgrades torsion bars, shocks rear coilovers are all still available for these vehicles. Motor wise there is a few companies still with camshaft profiles for these cars, I have a Colt but have heard very good things about Web and may be switching, most other peices like pistons and rods will have to be custom made. Good luck on your car, maybe I'll see you at the local meets.
Julian
The car is riding on Tokico Illumina shocks at all 4 corners currently(all set to 5), the front springs are 27.5mm Tbars from the late Lightspeed Racing Co., rear springs are the Monkeyz-Tek coilover with a 350lbs spring, stock front bar and welded rear bar. The bushings are stock(currently waiting for bamcrxgp to reproduce his delrin LCA bushings). The brakes are Integra's in the front and stock cast drums on the rear. Porterfeild R4-S compound pads(excellent pad, wonders compared the AEM pad I was using), Brembo replacement rotors and Techna-Fit SS lines all around with Motul 5.1 fluid.
The car handles very well with this combination. My previous CR-X was equipped with virtually the same set up(with the addition of Poly bushings) and never handled like this car. The rear often broke loose under breaking and at apex. With this set up in the red car, it rotates wonderfully. I suspect this has to do with the weight that has been dropped in the front helping to balance the body(white car was gutted and nearly untouched on the front end). I'd really like to get it on the scales and corner weigh this thing but need to get the blown shocks taken care of first.
The only update I have as of now is my front shocks have been sent to Koni North America as of a little over a week ago. They should be back in about 5 weeks after being shortened, revalved and converted to double adjustable. This will really help my front end since the right side shock is blown. I'm still currently looking for a EW AWD Wagon block to build upon. There will be many updates and many more horses once I get this peice.
QUOTE
Wow that car is very nice,I live near Rancho ( i lived there ) but,where do u find parts for these EA's???? its hard,everything is EF,EG.
any good sites for suspension and motor upgrades?
i kinda want a EA hb cuz there cheap for a DD/fun car. I rather keep my 05 ep2 stock,i like it how it is.
i just want a sites that has springs/coilovers for these cars.and everything like motors so on.
but again very nice car,u still have the white one?
any good sites for suspension and motor upgrades?
i kinda want a EA hb cuz there cheap for a DD/fun car. I rather keep my 05 ep2 stock,i like it how it is.
i just want a sites that has springs/coilovers for these cars.and everything like motors so on.
but again very nice car,u still have the white one?
Thanx for the nice words. As you already know from your personal experience aftermarket is very limited here. Search on the site for suspension upgrades torsion bars, shocks rear coilovers are all still available for these vehicles. Motor wise there is a few companies still with camshaft profiles for these cars, I have a Colt but have heard very good things about Web and may be switching, most other peices like pistons and rods will have to be custom made. Good luck on your car, maybe I'll see you at the local meets.
Julian
Edited by 87MugenProCR-X, 28 April 2007 - 07:18 PM.