56 replies to this topic

[rexsk8er]

well, heres your probablem. a browntop zc isnt electronic advance, and the ecu you need to use to chip and the harness the pm6's plug into is alot different than yours. what you can do however is run the afc hack, and that wont affect your ignition. thats the probablem with the newer cars and the hack, is that the ecu senses the manifolds pressure it not only changes the fuel map but it also changes the ignition map, so you run way adv ignition. not good for boost. but since its vac advance you have no probablem. if i were you that is what i would use.




Sean

[NNBD]

BTW....there the minimum octane is 95....i always use 98 octane. But at shell (who has an gasstation almost verywhere) we can get V-power (at least here in holland)...100 octane

[C_piddy]

well i have a black top that tom converted into a vacume advance dizzy. and i have the distributer and the tdc sensor, just have to change the wiring.

does that mean i can just use a pm6 with that converted wiring? is it plug and play with 89 electronics? or did you have to use a 91 civic harness?

interesting, my boost timing master took a dump on me. so jakob and i are looking for better fuel management and probably some tuning next year so we can buy some slicks and tear some v8's a new one.

thanks for the info, good thread, not alot of good ones on here lately.

chris

[rpr]

The PM6 will plug right into the 87 SI harness, I believe, since the PM6 and PG7 (89 teg) are a direct swap...

[rexsk8er]

hmmmmm, but if you do wont the ecu throw a code because of not haveing all the sensors in the dizzy? i suppose if you swapped the dizzy it would work but....




Sean

Edited by rexsk8er, 28 October 2004 - 10:34 AM.

[rpr]

hmmmmm, but if you do wont the ecu throw a code because of not haveing all the sensors in the dizzy? i suppose if you swapped the dizzy it would work but....




Sean

I didn't say it would run right, I said it would plug into the harness. But yes, if you added the right sensors and extra wiring, it would work perfectly. wilq has done it with his turboed D16A1.

[rexsk8er]

I didn't say it would run right, I said it would plug into the harness. But yes, if you added the right sensors and extra wiring, it would work perfectly. wilq has done it with his turboed D16A1.

Edited by rexsk8er, 28 October 2004 - 11:04 AM.

[C_piddy]

hey tj your site is super slow, i am trying to get to that list of the wires you have to change and add to the si harness to convert from vac to electronic, but the link doesn't want to work.

i am gonna try to tackle this in the spring, but want to figure everything out before hand.

thanks for the help guys.... rock

chris

[CRXdan]

TJ hit it on the dial. You can use any OBD0 ecu for turboedit, but the 90-91 si one is most desirable because its hella easy to chip.
If I had a browntop, the AFC hack woudl obviously be the best route, but just take a look at the screenshots of turboedit. So many values to edit, so much precision. Perhaps if you have bigger plans in mind like me (14psi on built block) an obd0 conversion is the way to go. There is ONE thing I cant take advantage of yet, and its launch control (stupid VSS)

BTW, i run a full 10 psi now, finnaly got the boost controller to hit 10 psi without boost cut, and the cars very fast. it shoudl defineltey be in the mid to high 13s with some drag radials

Edited by CRXdan, 28 October 2004 - 06:03 PM.

[NNBD]

Lets say....i buy a nice 1988 crx ed9 (with nice passive rear wheel stearing ). Thats an black top zc right ? (at least i know it has got an D16A9 engine).

Im serieus on this......can you help me than with my ecu ? Im death serieus on doing this.

Me and my brother already wanted a crx ED9 (gen2) to restore so i was thinking of buying a gen2 for say 500-800 euro, overhaul the engine and restore the body..and turbocharge it. It would be the first turbo crx in holland i guess.

I was thinking of an saab 900i turbo and an tailored made intercooler (does't cost much here).

I'm thinking of 6-8 MAYBE 10 psi, but i want to keep my engine running (at least for over a year so maybe 10 psi is too much).

btw...everyone here in holland says one thing when im starting about turbocharging.....YOU'RE GOING TO BLOW UP YOUR ENGINE.

[toxicshit]

Lets say....i buy a nice 1988 crx ed9 (with nice passive rear wheel stearing  ). Thats an black top zc right ? (at least i know it has got an D16A9 engine).

Im serieus on this......can you help me than with my ecu ? Im death serieus on doing this.

Me and my brother already wanted a crx ED9 (gen2) to restore so i was thinking of buying a gen2 for say 500-800 euro, overhaul the engine and restore the body..and turbocharge it. It would be the first turbo crx in holland i guess.

I was thinking of an saab 900i turbo and an tailored made intercooler (does't cost much here).

I'm thinking of 6-8 MAYBE 10 psi, but i want to keep my engine running (at least for over a year so maybe 10 psi is too much).

btw...everyone here in holland says one thing when im starting about turbocharging.....YOU'RE GOING TO BLOW UP YOUR ENGINE.

no they are not, i think your talking to the wrong people,
im in the netherlands too and im verry shure you can boost your engine verry good.. and there are some people in the netherlands that can do verry nice things with honda engines, like DBM engineering , TCC , Hyperstore, R-speed ( belgium ) , Kronenburg, APR ,Prophecy tuning etc..

if you need some good honda turbo info contact me on www.hondamatics.nl/hondamatics if you want my nickname over there is also toxicshit

and the first turbo CRX in holland ghehehehe dude you must be kidding.. ghehehe i think you will be nr 50 maybe even nr 100 we have one turbo crx with a goal of almost 750 hp.

Edited by toxicshit, 28 October 2004 - 06:31 PM.

[CRXdan]

its not the power that blows up your engine, its the detonation.
Turbocharging is a 2 part recipe.

1. Install the turbo system and supply the engine with more AIR
2. Supply the more FUEL, whether itd be electronically or mechanically. Electronically is obviously more precise and safer.

You cant have 1 or the other. If you add more fuel, your engine will flood, if you add more air, the engine will run lean and blow up. Its pretty simple theory.
I always thought i coudl bolt on a turbo and go, nope. That 50% of the process. You need to get more fuel in the cylinders to make more power without blowing shit up. This is why carbed cars respond so well to bolt ons. The bolt ons provide the more airflow, while the carb adjusts to add more fuel. Same goes for 5l stangs and such, the mass airflow meter detects the increased air flow and automatically adjusts to provide more fuel. Maybe this is why a 5l mustang with simple bolt ons absolutley hauls while a integra or civic with simple bolt ons runs near stock.
Before you even think of turbo, think of how youre going to get more fuel into the cylinders. And dont use ILl only run 5 psi as an excuse. Theres no point bolting on a turbo and taking all that time to make it work to only take 50% advantage of it. 5 psi gets boring quite quickly, and even at those levels some FM is needed to prevent detonation.

The turbo is pretty much a stock honda's engine worst nightmare, it turns into a ticking time bomb, UNLESS you provide with more fuel, then it runs fine.

[NNBD]

hmm i've searched many hours to find any information on turbocharged hondas (crx) in holland. I couldn't find anything about it, so i thought nobody had ever done such a thing. Im sorry, i was wrong....

[NNBD]

oke...you only talk about adding more fuel, but how about the spark retard ?? I thought an boost contolled spark retard is an absolute must on a turbo car.

I'm pretty confused know. Oke..i already knew i really have to put in more fuel. but how about the spark retard ?