37 replies to this topic

[Sinub]

I tried lookin for the relays on the manual but couldn't find it , still looking to where that random hose to nothing actually goes.


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[Sinub]

Well I found a vacuum leak, a vacuum line from the valve cover going to the air intake tubing. Didn't have a clamp and was very loose so I got a clamp on it and now doesn't wiggle at all but still idle fluctuates.... Hopefully flushing the coolant will fix it and I hope my coolant is brown from never being changed and not an oil leak...


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[Dirtcircle86]

That tube to the fan motor goes nowhere. The hose from the valve cover to the intake isn't a true vacuum line. To get true vacuum it has to be downstream (after) the throttle plate. That one is part of the PCV system. It vents fumes from the valve cover back through the engine. Even disconnected, it will not effect how it runs, just lets dirt in.

[Sinub]

Damn well later today morning after registering the car I'll try to fix the fan


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[Richardcoto452th]

Quick fix for the fan, ground one end of the thermo sensor switch and the other male end connect it to the ground part of your radiator fan. Now the positive connection for the fan just simply find a 12v source when the ignition key is on. On my ac post i took pictures of how the original wires look for the rad fan without wiring loom, hope this helps.

As for the idle you need to the the IACV behind the intake mani, take those 3 10mm bolts off and take it apart to give it a real nice cleaning. 

[Sinub]

I just adjusted my clutch, throttle body cable and cleaned the fast idle valve and I'm trying to adjust the clutch pedal because it has to much free play but I don't know how.

The manual says to adjust it by adjusting the screw on the clutch cable? I thought there was usually an adjusting screw but were the pedal is located. Little confused, any help?

After this adjustment I'm going straight to the fan


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[niccer]

FYI, if you click on the "Service Manuals" tab at the top of the page, you can find out most of the information you're asking about.  The clutch cable adjuster is on the front of the transmission and should be pretty evident when you're looking at it.  I don't know what the FSM calls for, but you do want just a little bit of play in the pedal to make sure your clutch is fully engaged or else you run the risk of it slipping and wearing out prematurely. 

[Sinub]

My free play is over 1in, too much according to the manual. I looked at the manual but is the adjusting nut the same for the pedal as it is for the clutch?


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[niccer]

Yes.  If you had a hydraulic clutch, then the adjuster would probably be in/by the pedal assembly. 

[Dirtcircle86]

Yes, it adjusts the length of the cable sleeve..........   There is only one adjuster.  There is technically no adjustment for the pedal or the clutch, only when and where the pedal activates the clutch engagement/disengagement.  The cable adjustment affects both, but only their relationship with each other.  I'm confusing myself......  but seriously, as the clutch wears down, the farther down the pedal will travel prior to the throw-out bearing pushing on the clutch diaphragm.  

 

If you reach down to the arm on the transmission and it moves significantly up and down. that translates to free-play in the pedal.  Lift up the clutch arm and tighten down the big plastic nut on the cable until you have less than an 1/8" (mines probably tighter) travel in the arm between when the cable is tight and the arm contacts the clutch.  Hop in the seat and feel the clutch pedal.  if you want it a little tighter,,, well you get the picture.  

 

The FSM is the very best.  Chiltons works a lot better than nothing.  

 

Rhetorical question:  How did we get to adjusting clutches on a "high idle and heating" thread....  

[Sinub]

I should retitle this, "Help on all problems on car"


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[Sinub]

The fan works!!! Flushed the coolant system but it still has gunk in it so I'm going to flush it again next week. The idle fluctuation is gone but still idles at 1000 Rpms and either I'm blind or retarded but I can't find the idle screw valve thing to see if that needed adjusting.

Still heat up but not as much so ???
Didn't change the thermostat but won't know if that's the problem until I flush it next week and change it then.
Also I think I forgot to mention that when the car is cold and I start it up it idles at like 900rpms so not sure what's wrong.

So far clutch has been adjusted an no more grinding, throttle cable adjusted, idle fluctuation gone, fan is working. So far so good. Still needs work!


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[Sinub]

P.S. Reason for flushing again is to try to get even more gunk out.


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[Sinub]

Anyone know how to adjust the fast idle valve?? Maybe my car is missing something though I doubt it


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[masterpenguin]

As far as I know you can't adjust the fast idle valve. Just take the metal cap off of it (should just be two screws) then there will be a large black piece that has a slot in it. If you take a really big screw driver or chisel just make sure it is snug dont crank it down just tight. That should be all you really need to do to make sure it's working.