155 replies to this topic

[blacksheep]

now if you look at the pics above you can see many layers of paint...the yellow was spray bomb (rattle can, spray can, spray paint, etc...) the red under that didn't look much better and finally I was down to the original NH-92M color...by getting rid of all this built up junk paint, I am insuring that what ever I spray over will not go to crap like a Maaco paint job does after 1 year...





a few words on primers and sealers before I go on...in Cali (where I was born and raised) body shops must use a waterbourne or water based primer (EPA stuff)...not sure if other states have adopted this or not, NC has not (thank god)...in Cali this is fine becuase of the drier climates...

in eastern NC the humidity is unreal (summertime is normally mid 90's F to low 100's F, with humidty around 90% or higher even on clear days, this also brings the heat index (what it actually feels like) up to 115 F. I had sprayed the entire car in a PPG waterbourne primer/sealer...after 2 days in the humidity alone, it began rusting through!! (will try to find pics of this)

Edited by blacksheep, 22 December 2005 - 02:17 PM.

[3gencivic]

some car here in bc have tha issus too. ford mainly but a truck i went to look at last night a 91 gmc had this issus and the owner is trign to get the deal ship to fix it. he was told they used a water based primer and now its peeling really bad.

other then tha tyour sure motorign onthe car there great job.

im about ready to paint my car should i strip to metal or is it ok to primer over the oem paint on it now. and if its striped dose it have to be in a air tight area or can it be in a some what colsed in area for a few days.

[blacksheep]

so what is the best thing to use...etch primer (I used Nason (a div. of DuPont) Etch Primer)...it not only covers bare metal but chemically bonds to it...thus preventing moisture to get to the metal and rusting...







before spraying etch primer over existing paint or factory sealers, you must atleast scuff the surface with a burgundy scotchbrite pad and it is also good to use a cleaner such as Ajax (powdered cleanser) and water to remove dirt and oils for better adhesion...do not use car wash soap as it probably contains a silicone and will prevent any kind of primer/sealer and paint from adhering...

Edited by blacksheep, 22 December 2005 - 02:18 PM.

[DarkHand]

looks fantastic. great to see an old one come alive again. and btw, i really wish i could weld.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Take a welding class or two at a local community college, it's exactly what I'll be doing some time this year.

[blacksheep]

some car here in bc  have tha issus too. ford mainly  but a truck i went to look at last night a 91 gmc had this issus and the owner is trign to get the deal ship to fix it.  he was told they used a water based primer and now its peeling really bad.

other then tha tyour sure motorign onthe car there great job.

im about ready to paint my car should i strip to metal or is it ok to primer over the oem paint on it now. and if its striped dose it have to be in a air tight area or can it be in a some what colsed in area for a few days.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

as long as the oem paint is still in good condition (i.e. the clear is not cracking or peeling away) simply wetsand (use a cleaning agent to remove wax) with 400 grit wet/dry and you will be ready to spray your color...always spray in a booth, (I use an old crossdraft setup)...once the last coat is applied, if you can, leave indoors overnight with a small fan (I use a 18") to circulate the air...do not aim directly at the car, just to keep the air moving...this helps prevent things like "solvent pop"...and can help to reduce orange peel...most orange peel comes from improper gun care and setup though...

hope this helps, good luck, and happy painting....

Edited by blacksheep, 29 June 2005 - 02:13 PM.

[blacksheep]

so I went junk yardin for some replacement panels...got a hood, the rear hatch filler panel, and some other parts for my Jeep...

had to get a new hood after the release cable snapped (rusted through) before the actual teardown...and the filler panel was too rusted and odly shaped to repair for as cheap as a replacement from the salvage yard...





now NOTHING in a salvege yard is perfect...so a little work was required...



here I simple used a DA with 180 grit paper to remove the oe paint but leave the oe sealer...

Edited by blacksheep, 22 December 2005 - 02:20 PM.

[blacksheep]

time for some primer...



a little more sanding....



and sealed with etch primer...

Edited by blacksheep, 22 December 2005 - 02:21 PM.

[blacksheep]

by now I am into about 150 hours of production....

Edited by blacksheep, 22 December 2005 - 02:22 PM.

[badpenny]

by now I am into about 150 hours of production....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

What look are you going for? are you going to put on the DX/Si trim or make it look like a 1300?

[E-AT_me]

i absolutley envy your skill and work area.. it really is fantastic..


although, i would get rid of that chevy. it's slowing you down.. ford is a much better replacement..

just kidding. i like the look of the old k10's..

[C_piddy]

beautiful work...


chris

[blacksheep]

i absolutley envy your skill and work area.. it really is fantastic..


although, i would get rid of that chevy. it's slowing you down.. ford is a much better replacement..

just kidding. i like the look of the old k10's..

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

fortunately the vehicles in the background are not mine...

also I'm no longer in that shop...the place I work at now is 3 times the size and has 2 lifts...and unlike before when I could only work on it on sundays, now I can work on it whenever, even when I'm on the clock!! the new job rocks!!

will be working on gettin more pics into the gallery for use in this thread...keep checkin back here....

[Richard]

awsome work, keep them coming.

Edited by Richard, 29 June 2005 - 04:03 PM.

[bigk3000]

wow that thing is sweeeeet.. tahst about how much rust i had.. i just borrowed my freind's welder and did a half ass job of wleding patches, but they work for now.

since your into body work and fiber glassing.. you think you could make civic spolier replicas?

[blacksheep]

wow that thing is sweeeeet..  tahst about how much rust i had..  i just borrowed my freind's welder and did a half ass job of wleding patches, but they work for now.

since your into body work and fiber glassing..    you think you could make civic spolier replicas?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

thank you for noting the skills...

as for fiberglassing the spoilers...it can be done relatively easy...would need an original spoiler (even if it is the foam one) to make a mold...mold making is really the hardest part of it...once the mold is made, it can be reused over and over to make lots of fiberglass replicas...

this is the same general process used to make fiberglass body kits...

with some spare time and creativity, one could "improve" on the original design and let's say make it a tiered or bi-level spoiler...change the angles, or maybe even make it adjustable...

some food for thought...maybe if enough members would actually want this I could work out some killer deals to get it going...