98 replies to this topic

[Aren D.]

no its not that hard core the the springs will compress if one side runs over a rock or gos in to a pot hole. This mod has been done to many 1g/3g cars street and track... I am not doing any thing new... But if some one has had problems with a weilded axle or locking plate please speak up.

it dose not twist like a sway bar it stays firm all the time... my other post was missleading

Edited by Aren D., 09 February 2005 - 09:17 PM.

[87MugenProCR-X]

It pretty much just makes your sway bar into a solid bar that does nto move. Thats the best explanation that i ahve.

Julian

[76kcfdeng]

Mine has been done for a while, no problems. Welding the stock one is easy and then you cut off the torsion bar and torque tube, saves the weight. You end up with the same thing. Nice work though, saves your stock bar if you ever need it.
Glen

[Vandemar]

It should work like this does:

IMO, it wasn't as big of a change as the Lightspeed rear sway, and I doubt the cut-off piece weighs 20lbs, it's probably closer to 10. I was originally planning on just using the welded version, but it rolled too much, so I added the LS sway back on, and the combination of the two pretty much eliminated any sort of understeer that was previously possible . Also the "TRICYCL" license plate makes more sense now .

[1stGenRex]

"can you make that in CF or FG?!?!?!?!"...buahahahah

[rpr]

FYI, the 1300 and HF's don't even have the internal bar, they are effectively already solid. At least mine is.

A fine piece of work though Aren. Well done!

[toxicshit]

i think my english to dutch translation issnt going to work this time,
where does that go and does annyone have a picture or a drawing of it, and why do you want to do this exactly.. whaha sorry arjen but i still cant get it after your little education lesson.

my rear suspension looks like the one on RPR's civic and i cant imagine annypart that looks like that whahha.

Greetings Erwin

[RETROCRX]

Guess you got sick of waiting for me to mail one to you huh!?Sorry, I've been incredibly busy and haven't even had the chance to get to it!

That looks perfect though, good job! It is actually an improvement on mine because what I made left the internal bar in place, yours you can remove it entirely......I like it!

Good thinking my boy!!

[E-AT_me]

hey aren. sounds like you could make some money now. hehehee. well, from me atleast.

[Veonik]

Beautiful work!
I wonder if RPR would ever produce something like this?
I don't have an efficient way to cut the thick plate.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If I got the blueprints for it I could have my dad mass produce all the plates at his shop and weld them together.

[RETROCRX]

If I got the blueprints for it I could have my dad mass produce all the plates at his shop and weld them together.

And the designer gets a cut of the profits right??

[E-AT_me]

hey, man. i want two. one for my civic, and one for my girls CRX.

[Disco Stu]

I'm still partially confused on how exactly it works.



I'm assuming that Aren's piece replaces the stabilizer assembly (circled in red), but I don't understand what the stabilizer does to begin with. I get the concept of swaybar (AntiRoll Bar) but I don't even see how it does that. It bolts to the axle and slides inside there (don't even know what holds it in on the inside if anything) and just kinda chills there?

Man, do I feel dumb... :/

[RETROCRX]

Stu, I'll try and explain.

Basically the beam can almost travel independently if the t-bar isn't in there. That is because the left side of the beam is solidly mounted to the trailing arm and the right side is mounted through a bearing....See the swing bearing in the pic you posted. So what the T-bar does is connect side that is allowed to rotate on the bearing to the trailing arm so that any rotation is resisted by the t-bar and thus acting as a sway bar. What the lock plate does is basically makes the right side act like the solid mount on the left side.

Best way to give an example is, if you had the trailing arm/beam assy out of the car, and you clamped the beam solidly so it couldn't move, you would not be able to rotate the left trailing arm, while the right one would move provided you pull hard enough to twist the t-bar. You'd really see what I mean if you did this and took off the stabilizer control arm (labelled on the pic)

Does that make sense?

Also as an aside, Tom's 1300 Civic doesn't have the t-bar but I am willing to bet that it still has the swing bearing meaning before Tom made the teg front bar work.....he had no rear sway bar.

[Disco Stu]

Ahhhhh says the blind man, now I see.
I'm still now sure how that torsion bar works (I don't see anything inside that it ataches to), but I understand the principle behind it. Very interesting.