27 replies to this topic

[kaymo]

i use motor oil because it keeps my engine from blowing up.


lol no really, i use whatever brand name is on sale on my DD non crx vehicles. used to only use Pennzoil because its what my brother used, but then just switched to on sale oil. i wont put advance auto oil or gas station oil in anything except a vehicle that i dont care much about or that uses oil.


i use mobil 1 in my scooter since its air/oil cooled (all air cooled motors are technically oil cooled as well) and high temps are expected

i would also use mobil in built engine, or convert to mobil on an engine that currently doesnt use any oil. i wouldnt put it in anything that leaks or uses.


JMHO

[1st gen boy]

86 CRX SI, Ex Firehawk car with a Jim Dentici built motor, Currently runs in SCCA ITB.

Never has anything in it from day 1 but Redline Race oil 30Wt when it is cold out at the track and 40wt when it is warm out. I run the stock Honda oil filters. I bought 2 cases of the old style big filters when they were phasing them out in favor of the little ones now in use.

Redline Shockproof Light in the transmission and GKN CV grease and GKN Tripod Grease in the axles.

[Old School REX]

I knew they had flat tappet's. That's what makes our little Honda motors make that "click-it-ty, click" sound at idle, even if the valve lash was just adjusted properly. No hydrolic help to dampen the sound, but also fewer parts to fail and replace IMO.

So what I didn't know is that some oils are better for flat tappet. I am also of the feeling that if changed regularly enough, good oil can be almost any oil. Some can argue that some oils are better for the rubber parts and gaskets, and some may be better for bearings in certain applications. But this would definately be engine specific as Buford pointed out.

So oils with higher zinc content are better for flat tappet motors like ours?

[Old School REX]

A quick search around on google did indeed show me that the general feeling is that flat tappet motors need the higher zinc and phosphorus content oils. I also am reading (as stated before) that the higer zinc content can cause detonation issues and O2 sensor/converter failure to happen if the motors have a high amount of blow-by that would allow the zinc to slip into the combustion chamber. I'm kinda a nooob in knowing about blow-by, but does anyone know if our motors are prone to high levels of blow-by? (lets say the rings and cylinder walls are in good condition) I would immagine that problems like this would be more prevelant on high compression motors or V8's, or even motors much older than ours with much "looser" tollerances. But I would hate to switch to a "high zinc" oil or use a zinc additive and cause future problems.

I'm not one to buy too much into the microscopic differences between oils and it causing instant horrible results; I mean hell.... my car has had multiple brands of "dino" oil in the same weight variety for most of its life, and the last 30K or so has been with regular synthetic oils and I'm rocking at 249,000 miles with no problem! I do, though, find it interesting to explore the options and choose something that could help my motor last another 100K if I can.

Any thoughts on this?

[GLHS988]

1) 1984 CRX Spyder

2) 1.5L EW-1 engine (stock) with ~139,000 miles

3) Chevron Delo 400 with 1 quart of Lucas Oil, Napa Gold Oil Filter

4) 15w-40

5) Why? Because I have a couple of gallons of the Delo in my garage. I am a believer in Lucas Oil and do use Lucas Oil with all my cars with mineral oil. The Delo has been great for cleaning all the crap out of my engine, especially since my car sat around for almost 6 years with the previous owner. Will eventually move onto either Valvoline Synpower or Mobil 1 if I can convince myself that it is okay to switch a high mile engine to synthetics. I will not use Pennzoil in anything after seeing how it formed up sludge balls in a 5000 mile rebuilt engine that I opened up.

[JEM MotorSports]

Valvoline Max Life in all 4 cyl yard equipment. (leaf vacuum, Ford 8N Tractor, Lawn Mower etc)
10-40w Cuz some are older and I like the oil. Also used in the beater Nissan 240SX cuz the engine
sat for a long time and seals needed softening. Was also used in the 3g SI engine that had 170k+ miles on it.
Royal Purple in all periodic used equipment (Generator, Snow Blower) 5-30w...
Honda Synthetic in the CRZ, cuz it's a new Honda.
Redline in the Tundra, EP Civic SI, 1g race car. Cuz it is simply the best....

topic clearly labeld, Civic or CRX ONLY!
several RPRs can not relate to what oil people place in other vehicles.

RPR caters to a selected few vehicles.
lets try to keep to the subject. thanks.

You can speculate all you want about clean v. dirty oil, good brands, synthetic etc.etc.
Only a good Detailed Oil analysis do with Mass Spec instruments can tell you what's best
for your application.

good point...
_____________________________________________________________________


great responses folks... lets keep 'em coming
lets save all debates & comments for the follow up thread.
We should let this thread run a little longer to give a few more people time to respond
before we open up to all comments, question,
concerns &/or debates.

..and pleeeasse try to stick to the format provided on page #1.
thanks again to the rest who have followed it. ...and BOooooo to the rest that didn't. LOL!

thanks guys.

[flashmatrix]

1) Vehicle: 86 CRX Si
2) Engine & Mileage: Slightly modded Fuel Injected 1.5L - 131k miles
3) Oil Brand: MOTUL 6100 Synergie
4) Weight: 10w40
5) WHY?: Been using this for years and was recommended by some track buddies,years ago. I also run their brake fluid throughout for less brake fade.

[hondaguy72]

1. 84 crx with 86 si fuel injected motor
2. unknown mileage, guessing more than 100k, less than 200k
3. Walmart (supertech) high mileage semi synthetic
4. 10w30
5. I use it in my other 180k plus mileage engines with great success. Less burning, good fuel economy, and it's pretty cheap.

Has to be used with a WIX filter IMO. The filter is more important than the oil IMO.

[Neverion]

1) 1984 Civic
2) 1.5 Carbed about 233k + miles on a supposedly rebuilt motor which i think is a lie.
3) Castol Syntec along with Lucas oil additive for extra protection.
4) 20W-50
5) Because of the mileage and well i trust castrol more than valvoline that my dad uses and its what the guy that i bought it from used.

[ForteGT]

1) 1984 CRX 1.5i
2) 1.5 (ew3?) 310000km (Rebuilt by previous owner)
3) Mobil 1
4) 0w-40
5) After spending lots of time on Bobistheoilguy I concluded its a very good oil meeting lots of manufacturer specs and it's easily available.

[ArnyBoy]

I'm using kendall full synthetic 10w30 in my turbo d16a1 but am thinking of going thinner to a 0w30 full synthetic, btw honda has switched to conoco/kendall for their shelf/dealer oil, I know because I work for Acura and all of our stuff has switched over, the oil seems fine I don't think honda would make a full line change of oil without doing their homework first. my .02
1. 87 1g rex
2. d16a1 swapped boosted 50 trim bb garrett hondata obd-1
3. mobil 1/ royal purple/ now kendall full syn.
4. 5w30 to 10w40 to 10w30
5. but after bobistheoilguy wanting to go to 0w30 full synthitic mobil or castrol or kendall

Edited by ArnyBoy, 22 April 2011 - 11:30 PM.

[Purplepeopleeater]

Y'all freakin' me out. What are you talking about in tappet wear on these engines? They have no tappets!! A tappet is a lifter, normally used to follow an in block camshaft up to an in head rocker arm. My MG has tappets, no Honda motor made between the early seventies & at least the mid nineties has them. The rocker arms on these Honda engines run directly off the camshaft,hence no tappets. If someone is talking to you about tappets in these engines he's either an idiot or thinks you are. Rant over

[Goodol'Si]

1986 Civic si
EW4 282k mi
Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic
5w-30
Because my car has and will see 105 alot(I get better mileage than at 75?) and i figure that 275k miles is like 75k miles in a domestic car