Next, I decided to go all electric, as the above set-up did not work FOR ME (wagon chassis length probably had a good amount to do with inconsistent fuel pressure that I was getting; prob. wouldn't be as noticable in a hatch or CRX). So, per Airgasms advice, I just pretty much copied his whole set-up. I bought a Carters fuel pump, mounted on the firewall, with an Earl's in-line filter, and Holley FPR and Summit gauge. I tried to get the fuel to push a steady 2.5-3.25 psi, but was unable to get a steady flow. The problem, again, wagon fuel tank was too far back. This set-up worked just fine in Airgasm's hatch and CRXfanatic's CRX, but on mine, the fuel pump was having to work to hard to get fuel from such a large distance. Most electric in-line pumps are PUSH (not pull) pumps, so they push fuel. Thus, they need to be mounted down low, and as close to the tank as possible. If they don't have enough fuel pressure (usually caused by gravity, thus, mounting them down low), then they have no fuel to push. Then, as a safety precaution, they stop working to cool down. This is known as "vapor lock". Fuel pressure then shuts down, and the carbs go to poop. So, this set-up was not working either. I believe that it worked for the other two guys because their fuel tank was closer. So, they had enough pressure coming from the tank in order to make them work, due to the simple fact that their fuel tank was closer to their firewall, unlike my longer wagon, as my tank is father back.
Here's some pics of the car in this state. You can clearly see how this set-up is so desirable. It's really easy to hook up! No need to get under the car, or run lines to the back, etc... However, notice how close the fuel-pump is to the carbs. They give off heat, and heat near a fuel-pump is not good. This alone can cause vapor lock. The fuel-pump can have all of the fuel it needs. However, if it's too close to a heat source, that source can heat it up enough to make it over-heat, and shut off. Also, I TOTALLY don't recommend the Carter pump, just b/c of the HORRIBLE terminal connectors at the bottom of the pump. They slide of VERY easily. And for an engine that vibrates like ours, well, you get the idea....
If you REALLY want a firewall mounted unit, just make sure to get one that has better connectors, something that has wires that are permanently connected to the fuel pump that you can splice in to. Or, just anything better than slide terminals!
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BIG EDIT:
Be VERY VERY VERY careful about mounting a fuel pump, or a regulator, or anything for that matter, on to our Civic/CRX fire walls. There are several fuel lines that run across the top area of the firewall from the drivers side to the passengers side, basically parallel with where they enter the firewall on the left side. It is VERY easy to nick one of these lines as you are drilling and tapping in screws to mount a fuel pump, etc... If you are going to mount something on the wall, MAKE SURE you know exactly what is behind the area that you are drilling/tapping. Don't ask me how I know. Long story, that involves a lot of gas fumes, fuel soaked carpet, and having to take many hours to pull the dash, patch the line, and put the dash back in. NOT FUN!!!Soooooo, I then took the car to a shop that had a lift. They tried to mount my Carter push pump underneath the car, near the tank. But, the unit is so large, and there was not a single place to mount that pump under my car by the tank.
To make a long story short, I ended up switching to a very simplistic in-line electric pump that was available at my local auto-zone. It pushed 7 psi, which was perfect, I just used the fuel-pressure regulator to tame it down to the necessary 3.0 psi that these Mikuni's love. The pump was linear in shape/orientation, and fit perfectly where the stock fuel-filter goes under the left rear wheel.
Then, I was running fine. However, it was getting warmer outside, and a funny problem happened. I had capped off that vent line, and was not running a return line. So, gas vapors were building up in my system. They were pushing back through the firewall, and causing fuel to run BACKWARDS through my feed line, and back into the car, fully saturating my passenger floorboard, where the fuel lines run! NOT GOOD!! (Edit: I later discovered that this fuel back-up was a result of a fuel line that I nicked while drilling/tapping screws for the fuel pump on the firewall. See edit notice made a few lines above. But hey, it couldn't hurt to do the mod listed below as well! Getting those fumes out of the vehicle, and down low away from engine heat IS important. Sooooo, read on and do this below as well!)
So, easy solution. Ran a small piece of rubber tubing from the vapor line nipple on the firewall. I ran this down about a foot and a half to near the front sub-frame and steering rack, and just let it hang there, zip-tied to a local part of the chassis. This vents the fuel gasses out of the engine and in to the atmosphere. That helped, but didn't totally fix the problem. I was still getting some fuel backing back into the interior. So, I then drilled to small wholes in my gas cap, and the problem was official solved. Our caps are "vented" caps, but they really don't vent at all! Now, with two small holes, it vents just vine. No more vapor build up, and the car runs strong. That brings me to where I am now. These carbs still need proper jetting for my area, as per my instructions at the beginning of this email. So, you'll have to call Wolf Creek Racing and get the jets from him. He has all of them in stock, and they are very affordable. It just may take a little time to figure out which ones are best. As I stated to you over the phone, the jet chamber is right at the top of the carb, where it says "Mikuni". You just unscrew that one screw on top, lift the cover, and there are your two jet blocks. Each "block" has a top jet and a bottom jet to play around with, and it's very easy to do. I would say that you could change the jets in both carbs in around 10 minutes tops.
Here's some pics of the car in it's current state. Notice the vapor line now going down towards the sub-frame to vent gases. You could leave it open, with no cap, and no fuel line, but you'd be letting fuel vapors escape right near your engine. That's a recipe for combustion! That's why I used the fuel-line to help let them exit safely underneath the car. I have had NO problems with this set-up, and can only assume it is a very safe set-up for the exit of fuel vapors. The vapor line I speak of is located inbetween my fuel pressure regulator and the pressure gauge. You can see it running down towards the firewall.
You may also notice the fuel return line blocked off with a wide screw. Their may be a way to run a return line with these carbs, but I don't currently know of one. Maybe someone else can chime in
WITH PICTURES!. This could only be good for the in-line fuel pump. A return line would help it to run cooler and be less-worked, and more consistent. But, with my set-up, it has not proven to be an urgent need.
Also, DON'T BE CONFUSED BY MY PICS: Airgazm and I discovered a weird inconsistenty b/t the wagon and other models. My fuel RETURN line is on the right, and the feed line is on the left. On the hatch and CRX's this is flipped-flopped. But in either case, the fuel FEED line is the BIGGER LINE OF THE TWO. Which makes total since. So, look for your big line: that's your feed line. The smaller line is your fuel-return line, to return unused fuel back to the tank.
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You may also notice that I switched from the braided line to the rubber line for the fuel feed line going to the fuel pressure regulator. Back when I was having the gas back-up problems, we assumed it could have been b/c the braided line could not clamp tight-enough around the inlet-nipple with the standard hose clamps I had. So, I switched back to a rubber line there, hoping to get a tighter clamp around that nipple. In retrospec, the main problem was that the gas cap at the fuel tank just needed to have a couple of holes drilled in it. I have not taken the time to switch back to the "pretty-looking" stainless line, but I am sure that I now can with no problems. I still have the SS braided line and the fancy blue/red clamp cover (-AN fitting look-a-like!), and will, of course, ship this with the purchase of the carbs, as well as all of the other fittings and line I have, as I no longer have any need for them.