16 replies to this topic

[NurburgRinger]

hi all -
When cruising at constant highway speed in my stock, 96,000mile '86 Si there has been is a droning noise coming from the rear axle area.
It's not super loud, and not exactly a constant pitch sound, but varies slightly in pulsing manner.
Probably the rear bearing(s) don't you think?

If so, I see that the hub and bearing are sold as a complete unit.
Ebay has sets for ~$50 shipped, but when buying critical parts like these I'd rather not skimp

http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories



http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories

Autohaus AZ has "FEQ" brand part W0133-1615018 for $70/pair free shipping ("OEM" NTN or Timkens are out of stock, but $140 each!)

http://www.autohausa...77~1~~5~5@Civic CRX Si &year=1986&cid=hub@hub&gid=10293@Axle Hub Assembly



Rockauto has "Delphi" brand at $120/pair

http://www.rockauto.....php?pk=2508534

WWSD? (What would Sōichirō do?)
If the photos are accurate the Autohaus AZ ones look pretty stout.

thanks for any experiences/input!

Also, anybody know off the top or their head the socket size to remove/install the new hubs, and the torque spec by chance?

cheers!
Kurt

[Greg Gauper]

The socket & torque specs are the same as the front hubs.
134ft-lbs
The socket is either 30mm or 32mm but I can't remember off the top of my head...

[1986civicsi]

Size is 32mm

[DEIVIONCRX]

32mm or 1-1/4" socket. Pop the dust cap off, remove the big nut, slide the hub off, replace the hub, replace the washer, re-tighten the nut, replace the dust cap.

[NurburgRinger]

Size is 32mm

thanks Greg and '86!

would you use any loctite?

[Scoore]

Im using cheap ebay hub bearings in the front for my 1gen and so far,no problems.. And im not running my car like a normal behaving person either

[NurburgRinger]

32mm or 1-1/4" socket. Pop the dust cap off, remove the big nut, slide the hub off, replace the hub, replace the washer, re-tighten the nut, replace the dust cap.

cool thanks, I was hoping it'd be that easy. While she's up in the air during winter hibernation I'll be doing this, replacing the rear shocks, refinishing the phone-dials, and putting on new rubber. Will be great to have her tightened up and quieted down for next spring

Anybody in the Milwaukee area know of a pick-and-pull where I might find a minivan to scavange a sway bar?

Scoore - since you're Scandanavian and likely driving sideways more than straight ahead I wouldn't dare accuse you of driving 'normally'

I'll probably spring the extra few bucks for the Autohaus AZ parts, they've always been good to me and have to pick up a few big jugs of oil anyway.

skol!

[Greg Gauper]

thanks Greg and '86!

would you use any loctite?

No loctite. The axle nuts are the same as the fronts in which you use a small center punch to 'stake' the nut into the groove on the stub axle.
If you are careful when you remove the old nut, you will be able to reuse them. If you swap them from side to side, the area where you stake them will be in a new spot on the nut, making them easier to reuse.

[NurburgRinger]

No loctite. The axle nuts are the same as the fronts in which you use a small center punch to 'stake' the nut into the groove on the stub axle.
If you are careful when you remove the old nut, you will be able to reuse them. If you swap them from side to side, the area where you stake them will be in a new spot on the nut, making them easier to reuse.

gotcha, thank.
New axle nuts were only a couple bucks on Autohaus AZ so ordered 2 along with the new hubs/bearings and new shock mounts this afternoon. Will take pics to document here, thanks all again for the input!
Kurt

[1st gen boy]

gotcha, thank.
New axle nuts were only a couple bucks on Autohaus AZ so ordered 2 along with the new hubs/bearings and new shock mounts this afternoon. Will take pics to document here, thanks all again for the input!
Kurt

I actually take my new hubs apart and repack them with "Nichols" grease. Great stuff. The Nascar guys use it on the RF and it has not failed us yet. Being the curious type I would take apart your old ones and see what they look like and what went bad. Good learning experience too. We repack our rear hubs a lot during the race season. Pretty easy to do.

[anjin]

You can find the inner bearing gets stuck on the axle stub rather than coming off with the hub. Can be fun getting it off, both from my own experience (easy) and a couple of threads on rpr (grind grove, hit to fracture the bearing ring). Good luck with it.

One thing you might want to try - check to see if the axle nut is loose. I have found that this was the problem and tightening it back to spec gave me extended time. I don't have new hubs available here, so extending the life is important.

[NurburgRinger]

I actually take my new hubs apart and repack them with "Nichols" grease. Great stuff. The Nascar guys use it on the RF and it has not failed us yet. Being the curious type I would take apart your old ones and see what they look like and what went bad. Good learning experience too. We repack our rear hubs a lot during the race season. Pretty easy to do.

I'm curious also, would like to do an autopsy. What's your procedure for removing the old (and new to repack) bearings? I'm assuming a bearing puller is likely good to have on hand.
Google isn't returning any hits for "Nichols bearing grease"; but since I only put around 3k miles/year and don't plan on running at Talledega the new rear bearings will hopefully last a while
Thanks for the info!
Kurt

[NurburgRinger]

You can find the inner bearing gets stuck on the axle stub rather than coming off with the hub. Can be fun getting it off, both from my own experience (easy) and a couple of threads on rpr (grind grove, hit to fracture the bearing ring). Good luck with it.

One thing you might want to try - check to see if the axle nut is loose. I have found that this was the problem and tightening it back to spec gave me extended time. I don't have new hubs available here, so extending the life is important.

Good tips - I'll be doing this job in a friend's warehouse, so I'll ask him if he's got an angle grinder just in case.
I should really jack the rear end up and give the wheels a shake to see if theres any play, but since I've been driving with this groaning sound for over a year will probably just go for the whole job in a few weeks (only another 50 miles driving or so). The new hubs should be here tomorrow.

cheers!
Kurt

[1st gen boy]

I'm curious also, would like to do an autopsy. What's your procedure for removing the old (and new to repack) bearings? I'm assuming a bearing puller is likely good to have on hand.
Google isn't returning any hits for "Nichols bearing grease"; but since I only put around 3k miles/year and don't plan on running at Talledega the new rear bearings will hopefully last a while
Thanks for the info!
Kurt

Kurt,

Give me a call and I'll walk you through it.. Basicly you just tap the two bearing halfs out and look at the races and ball bearings. My guess is you will find the races all chewed up. No need to be gentle taking it apart as you will not be reusing them. They can be a PITA to get back together as they were not intended by Honda to be serviced. Where are you located in Milw?

Bob
262-317-1225 wk

[NurburgRinger]

Kurt,

Give me a call and I'll walk you through it.. Basicly you just tap the two bearing halfs out and look at the races and ball bearings. My guess is you will find the races all chewed up. No need to be gentle taking it apart as you will not be reusing them. They can be a PITA to get back together as they were not intended by Honda to be serviced. Where are you located in Milw?

Bob
262-317-1225 wk