Chedda J's Spherical Adjustable Panhard Bars
Updated Rod
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y64/cheddaj/DSC03147.jpg)
Old Style Rod
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y64/cheddaj/DSC02948-1.jpg)
These panhard bars are intended for 1st gen crx, 3rd gen civic car owners to enable them to lower the car safetly by repositioning the rear axle properly so that the drivers side wheel is not pushed out towards the fender well. This will prevent the wheel rub associated with lowering these generations of these cars, that inevitably ruins your tire.
Product is made of 1 1/8" structural tube steel with VXB 20mm rod ends (heims joints). The panhard bar is adjustable without the removal of the panhard bar via LEFT hand and RIGHT hand rod ends. To adjust the bar, all that is needed is a set of crescent wrenches to loosen or tighten the bar and jam nuts. Between the rod ends are washers/inserts built by myself, 4mm thick on one end, and 7.25 on the other. Stock bolts will work in correspondance with the new panhard bar with no modification.
Disclaimer: In no way is the seller responsable for any damages or injury due to failure or installation of this part, although usable for street use, track use is recomended. By purchasing this item you fully understand all risks involved in lowering your vehichle, installation, and risks in driving a vehichle with my product. In no way is the seller responsble for any monetary damage to any property in any way.
Price: $200
Shipping: free Canada/Usa
Now the terms of these panhard bars is that, because the parts take two weeks to come in, and unless i do a group buy a whole lot of parts in at one time, these may take up to three weeks to a month to be completed and shipped. If these go well i may make 10 and offer them for a while.
I ask for $100 deposit before ordering the parts, the money isnt touched untill the unit is complete, pictures are typically sent to each buyer, and the unit is shipped via ground.
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y64/cheddaj/DSC02922.jpg)
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y64/cheddaj/DSC02921.jpg)
Installed:
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y64/cheddaj/IMG_0005-3.jpg)
New Poly Bushings
![](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y64/cheddaj/DSC03149.jpg)
Install:
Support the cars body with a jack stand on either side via pinch weld. Then remove the wheels. Support the axle with a block of wood or jack to prevent it from dropping apon removal of panhard bar.
Then remove panhard bolts, one from the body mount and one from the axle mount. Now these are very very tight and sometimes its best to get some nut breaker on them first for a while to loosen them up. Then you will need to use a 14mm and a 17 (maybe a 19) mm socket and an impact or breaker bar to get them to off.
After youve removed the old bar, tap the bar off from the axle mount with a rubber hammer. Bring the panhard out of the car and onto a flat bench or work area. Grab the new panhard bar and adjust it by turning the rod ends on either side untill its exactly the same length as the stock panhad bar, leave the jam nuts loose. Also make sure that either side of the panhard bar is adjusted the same length, this is very important for longevity of rod ends.
Install the bar and bushings into the car. The kit will come with two stepped bushings, and two flat washer bushings. The flat bushings (spacers) go on the axle, one on either side of the rod end. The stepped bushings, fit in either side of the rod end and go on into the body mount. Install the tires, lower the car back onto the ground on its own weight. Then crawl under neath and turn the rod by hand untill the distance from the wheel/tire to the outer fender is the same distance. You need the car to be on perfectly flat ground. Use a measuring tape and a flat piece of wood accross flat accross the tire/wheel for a more accurate measurment. Once even, go under the car and tighten both jams against the rod to prevent it from loosening, you will need two crescent wrenches, and do both nuts at the same time. Tighten the jams fairly tight.
All done, but make sure to grease the rod ends, every 1000 miles again for lengevity. Also check the jam nuts very shortly after driving it, to make sure they havent backed off, and also make sure they are tight every time you grease the zerks. I also let my customers know that the rod ends will wear out, when you start to feel clunking, and greasing them isnt helping, then its time to replace. I can offer a website to replace them for about $40, or you can purchase upgraded bearings and keep the rod ends, for about $30 and press them in.