For the intake setup i would get a ITR intake manifold and TB, or the aftermarket equivalent AEBS and a Blox/Skunk2/BDL throttle body etc.
For fuel system I'm currently running the stock pump it seems fine, I'm not leaning out but I'm also on a stock B18A1.
Ive never seen the need for aftermarket fuel rails and the such. Unless you running AN lines its a lot easier to thread into the aftermarket rails at that point.
For the fuel line from the filter to the rail i just used what i had laying around, CRV, Integra, Civic, Accord whatever i could find that would fit. I ended up not being 100% with any of them so i took the best ends and had them made into a custom line at a local place that does nothing but hose.
Gasket kit, OEM or go home. Acuraautomotiveparts.org is the Majestic Version of Acura parts.
ARP head studs are awesome, i love mine. Just make sure you get a 1/2" 12pt socket for the nuts. A 13mm will do in a pinch.
For your data-log cable check out
http://www.moates.ne...;products_id=78The chippable ecu and chrome will require a chip burner or a RTP daughter board. Basically you'll burn a base chip, go to the dyno or drive and build your tune, re-burn a chip stick it it, and do it all over again till your happy. Or with something like the Demon i got, you can just upload the tune to it over and over. Same difference, different price, different amount of labor.
To tune yourself you'll need a wide-band 02 sensor of some sort. If your going to a dyno they should have one. If not you'll have to buy one. The LC-1 from Innovate seems to be the cheapest best solution. Thats what i bought, i went with the XD16 gauge because i wanted to be able to keep a eye on it on the race track. Their DB gauge, or the Moates 02 Gauge would be a cheaper solution. You can use it without the gauge as well, Chrome will allow you to wire it up so it displays on your laptop.
The distributor, unfortunately the OEM housing option like i did isn't available they run from $200-400, instead of the $100 i payed for my 94-95 Non-Vtec. So your only solution is Used or new from somebody like Distributor King, they used to be damn good, but lately I've herd some horror stories about distributors being bad out of the box, but I've also herd good things. IDK if its pick and a poke or what.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessoriesDefinitely go with Hasport for your Wiring, Axles and Mounts, Keith and his brother are 2 of the best guys I've ever had contact with. Their Axles are a lot nicer than the other options. HASport has made me a believer. I don't think they still sell the shift linkage, but its fairly easy to do it yourself, i like 1" square tubing from Home Depot/Lowe's it fits over the pipe great, or find something to cram inside the tubing so its got less of a chance of flexing and cracking your welds on those Power Shifts.
The fidanza flywheel is the lightest option out there, but i chose the XACT Pro-Lite over it because i don't like the replaceable material flywheels, the holes in the surface are a reduction in friction material for me, and the XACT is chromoly. The Fidanza is 7lbs, the XACT is 8.8.
http://www.clutchcit...CT/600105.shtmlClutch is 100% up to you, i wanted a Kevlar clutch for the reusable and the lessening damage to the flywheel. And i wanted a spring-less/rigid hub disc because I've always attributed the springs popping out to a lightweight flywheel, I've only seen one person pop the springs out of a clutch disc on a stock flywheel, its always been a lightweight. I went with Action Clutch, Alex built me a custom 1KS that is solid hub.
Since you haven't bought your Hasport mounts yet you have the option of Cable or Hydro. I would literally just get whatever you can find, if you don't plan on upgrading the Differential stay away from the 90-91 Cable its a weaker differential vs the 92-93 and 94+. For gear ratio get something B16, the LS ratios are still better than our stock EW's but the B16 is a lot higher. Look for one with a 4.4 or 4.85 final drive. There is a random B16 transmission or there with a 4.2 final drive like the LS's, Theres also some LS's with 4.4's. Of course with the Hydro trans you'll need to figure out how you want to actuate the slave cylinder. HAsport sells 2 of the 3 options. First would be the mechanical device that bolts on to the transmission and uses the cable like stock to pull on the Clutch fork. The 2nd would be the device that uses the cable to operate a master cylinder, plumbed into the slave cylinder. The last would be to physically add a Master cylinder to your pedal assembly under the dash, I've seen it posted on RPR i think in the Barnyard built thread. All have their pros and cons. I like the Cable to Master Cylinder option best #2.
The CRV upper radiator hose is only good for the Non-Vtec motors. For the VTEC motors you'll probably want to look at the 92-93 GSR upper. For the lower, they all should be the same 90-91 Integra LS works the best for me. Now saying that, your buying B-series hoses so they will be larger on the Radiator side, the Radiator is setup for the smaller D-series hoses. I just double clamped them to ensure they wouldn't leak. I also like to run NAPA hoses because they run smaller.
For LSD, I'm going to go with Wavetrack, Its the best of both the Clutch and Helical Gear Type. Another option would be the Mfactory, and on the expensive side Quaife or Kaaz.
For your dent in the Frame Rail, don't forget a Dent for the IACV as well.