The controllers and ecu itself come in at least two versions, with different protocols. So the old Commander won't talk to the new Power FC. So rather than source a new controller I bought the FCDatalogit software, which allows pretty full access and editing to the maps and settings. Been an interesting few sessions.
I copied and wrote the old tuner settings across to the new ecu. On fire-up I had very high air fuel ratios - in the 20's. Quick shut-down and check showed I had ticked the wrong box in a setting and told the ecu that the airflow was only half what was actually happening. Second time I still had af ratio's in the 17's and 18's. Shut it down again and spent quite some time looking at the maps and comparing them with a 'standard' B18C map that came as part of the package.
The standard map had higher settings in the low rev low throttle off-vtec area I was testing in, so I upped the injector cycles and got the af ratio's into the 11's to be safe. Much safer to run rich than lean. It was fun changing settings while the engine was running and watching what was happening. I'll continue to play in this area until the af ratios are in the low 14's. And then drive to a tuner to remap the rest.
I should explain that the previous tune was for an LS VTEC build with much the same compression as this block, but a different head and skunk 2 pro 2 cams instead of Toda spec B. So I expected small differences, as the lift of both cams is pretty similar and the current head didn't have a lot of work (old one was standard). But not 20% in af ratios. If it is a difference in behaviour then I'm getting a lot more air into the engine, and that should mean more power. Alsso bigger injectors and fuel pump, as I was maxing both out before in the previous engine at 174 whp.
Currently I have a cooling problem which is cutting the tuning sessions short. The water temperature spikes rapidly, but returns to normal quickly on shut-down. I'm talking 10 seconds. I suspect I have a circuit problem in the cooling, with maybe the thermostate not opening when it should because hot water isn't getting to it at the right time; or a hose collasping. It certainly isn't the radiator - new - or the water pump - near new.
So I'm learning new stuff - programming the ecu and seeing the back end of all the fuel correction and ignition correction stuff that goes on in the ecu's.