Edited by stoner, 19 October 2005 - 02:16 PM.
0
Omfg..........
Started by stoner, Oct 19 2005 02:11 PM
8 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 19 October 2005 - 02:11 PM
i am shitting myself right now, i just rebuilt my ew1 in my 1500S and it has about 100 miles on it. i went to change the oil and i put penzoil high milage in it cause i figured it would be changed soon anyway. i didn't know that shit was synthetic. the car blows blue smoke and runs like crap. i am scared to death i broke a ring....... i will try to flush it all out and put castrol 10-30 back in it and do like 5 oil changes in the next 100 miles. someone please tell me this oil didn't ruin my engine...
#2
Posted 19 October 2005 - 04:51 PM
worst case scenario is your rings wont seat.
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#3
Posted 19 October 2005 - 11:52 PM
O no......that sucks balls
always use the cheapest shit you can find, but hope you got lucky
always use the cheapest shit you can find, but hope you got lucky
#4
Posted 20 October 2005 - 12:44 AM
how would thin your oil with something like karisene, or used an oil flush aditive?
as I understand it the basic rule with new, or rebuilt engines is use 10w30, older books on rebuilding sugest that you use straight 30 weight, that is provides enough lubrication and heat transfer to protect, while letting the rough serfice of the cylinder walls bite in to the rings to seat them.
as I understand it the basic rule with new, or rebuilt engines is use 10w30, older books on rebuilding sugest that you use straight 30 weight, that is provides enough lubrication and heat transfer to protect, while letting the rough serfice of the cylinder walls bite in to the rings to seat them.
#5
Posted 20 October 2005 - 04:10 PM
I would never even use penzoil to lubercate my toilet seat..............
penzoil sucks.....
it leaves a waxy crap residue in your engine
penzoil sucks.....
it leaves a waxy crap residue in your engine
I love Old School!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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#6
Posted 21 October 2005 - 08:07 AM
that's because it's got a parafin base...
i'll never ever use pennzoil either.. just castrol mobil one and redline, if i got the money.. but only synthetic for me..
i'll never ever use pennzoil either.. just castrol mobil one and redline, if i got the money.. but only synthetic for me..
1986 Civic Si; b16a is in.. just gotta get it running..
longest swap ever.....
longest swap ever.....
#7
Posted 23 October 2005 - 12:14 PM
The reason your blowing blue smoke is becuase synthetic oil is alot thinner than your average oil. Obvisouly you didnt do a very job rebuilding or you did not do a complete rebuild.
Edited by jiggerjosh, 23 October 2005 - 04:26 PM.
If only i knew what i was doing!!!
#8
Posted 25 October 2005 - 04:32 PM
QUOTE (jiggerjosh @ Oct 23 2005, 12:14 PM)
The reason your blowing blue smoke is becuase synthetic oil is alot thinner than your average oil. Obvisouly you didnt do a very job rebuilding or you did not do a complete rebuild.
usually synthetic will burn not as obvious.. it's supposed to burn cleaner? i guess?? i dunno. i don't notice anymore smoke when i start my car, and it used to.. but now that i'm running synthetic, it's less visible, but it definately still goes through oil!
1986 Civic Si; b16a is in.. just gotta get it running..
longest swap ever.....
longest swap ever.....
#9
Posted 25 October 2005 - 08:39 PM
I have always heard it is best to use dino oil to break in a motor even if you plan to go synthetic but never a clear explanation of why.
to learn about engine oils go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and join the forum. there are some serious engine oil fanatics there.
if you go dino, try a diesel oil like delvac or rotella. It is better quality oil and additives and a good compromise if synthetic is too pricey.
I have heard not to use high mileage formulation dino oils. Supposedly the seal swellers in them don't work forever and then your engine leakes worse than ever.
if you go synthetic try using mobil 1 0w40. A number of other synthetic oils are either dino-synthetic blends or lower grade synthetics. In Canada try rotella synthetic 0w40 (available at larger canadian tires or you can order it at any store for $30 for 4 litres) which is a Canada only full synthetic high grade oil.
I have had good luck with synthetic oils stopping engine seal leaks. I got my truck cheap at 122,000 miles because it used a litre of oil every 500 miles. I switched to mobil 1 10w30 and after using oil like crazy for a month it cured a leak at the crank and oil pans but not the main seal leak and I was down to a litre every 2000 miles. I switched to rotella syn 0w40 at 140,000 miles and it cured the main seal leak and now I use a litre in 4000 miles.
to learn about engine oils go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and join the forum. there are some serious engine oil fanatics there.
if you go dino, try a diesel oil like delvac or rotella. It is better quality oil and additives and a good compromise if synthetic is too pricey.
I have heard not to use high mileage formulation dino oils. Supposedly the seal swellers in them don't work forever and then your engine leakes worse than ever.
if you go synthetic try using mobil 1 0w40. A number of other synthetic oils are either dino-synthetic blends or lower grade synthetics. In Canada try rotella synthetic 0w40 (available at larger canadian tires or you can order it at any store for $30 for 4 litres) which is a Canada only full synthetic high grade oil.
I have had good luck with synthetic oils stopping engine seal leaks. I got my truck cheap at 122,000 miles because it used a litre of oil every 500 miles. I switched to mobil 1 10w30 and after using oil like crazy for a month it cured a leak at the crank and oil pans but not the main seal leak and I was down to a litre every 2000 miles. I switched to rotella syn 0w40 at 140,000 miles and it cured the main seal leak and now I use a litre in 4000 miles.