Red Pepper Racing

I'm anxious to see your "surprise".

The ax club I belong to (Boeing Employees Autosports Club; BEAC) has a large membership w/lots of closed practices (pretty much every other wkend in the Summer). BEAC runs it's practice sessions like SCCA Solo events but w/o the class structure...every car runs together just for fast time of day bragging rights. I'm free to build the kakabox anyway that pleases me!

FWIW, a large percentage of the members are SCCA Solo competitors, several are national caliber, so there are plenty of good drivers w/fast cars (STI's and turbo Miatas, etc.) that come to the practices. I look fwd to trying to knock off some of the 'big boys' w/the lowly Kakabox!

I like to build cars for fun and the way I like, not having "class" restrictions to deal with. If I did run a SCCA Solo event, or the like, the Kakabox would most likely be in Street Modified, or some such cubbyhole where it probably would not be very competitive.

I'm positive you'll be the first one to see it!

WOW. I just read all of it. This has got to be the most useful and inspiring thread ever. Thank you so much for sharing!!!!!!!!!!!

I've been contemplating the brake booster delete for years, and almost did it last year after I aquired a spare booster to tear up. I think I'll do it this winter.

I have a question for any of the brake guys following the thread. I know the Teg and Lude MCs are bigger, which ones would be smaller, for LESS effort after the booster delete???????????

I've been thinking about classing this car during the whole read. I believe XP or DM would be it. The wheel tire package you've chosen will kill you the most. You need slicks!

Not surprisingly, I'm dying to go work on my CRX!!!!

Cheers!

Thanks.

Updated 2/23/08: The 1/3g Si oem MC's are smaller in diameter than the 7/8" dia 'teg unit, 15/16" piston dia, iirc. If going w/o the oem vacuum booster, use the smaller oe 1/3g MC...I've found it works well w/the full 'teg brake conversion (use the 'teg ppv). Just a bit more foot pressure is required when not using the oem booster. However, the pedal feel is increased and you'll save ~3 lbs. and have more room in the engine bay.

The wheels/tires I chose because they were cheap, light, and have a small rolling diameter:


'99 Miata 14x6 wheels: 12.5 lbs/ea, center hub bored to 57.1 mm Honda size (56.1 mm is the Mazda hub size). $188/4
Toyo Proxes: T1R 195 45 14; $380/4 => shipped, mounted & balanced.
Wheel/Tire Total = $568
Rolling diameter = 20.9" ...that's ~1.8" smaller in rolling diameter than the oem 13" tires; lower gearing for better acceleration on the ax course.
Wheel/tire: 27 lbs.

I plan to go to R compound tires on 13 x 6 wheels after I get more seat time using the street tires w/the new suspension.

What are the "XP" and "DM" classes?

Yeah, I'd never use the Teg one. I have a stock system, and wanted a smaller m/c than stock.

I'm not knocking the wheel tire package you have at all. You definitely have the right idea. I LOVE it and would love to have it for summer/ax use. I love Toyo for offering such a cool tire size. The Yok AVSi used to come in 195/55-14 which was sweet. A 195/45-14 is just too cool. I was just sayin that in your class, the tire will be the limiting factor...

FYI, take offs are cheap, and so are old BMW wheels. Hoosier 20x8x13s on a low offset BMW 13x6s is a nice cheap wheel/tire package. I got my whole setup for $150.
Check this guy out for slicks.
http://stores.ebay.c...ce-Tires-USDRRT

XP is "X Prepared". An "EP" car with a motor swap goes to XP, it's a new class.

DM is "D Modified". More mods are allowed, some of your suspension bracing and other misc. bracing in the car may put you there.

The whole rulebook...
http://www.scca.com/...ile/GCR2006.pdf

I think I'm going to go look at all of your pics in your gallery again!
Edited by CRXfanatic, 19 October 2006 - 06:54 AM.

No 'knock' taken! I agree, the street tires will limit how fast I'll be, once the "lousy driver" gets up to speed! After I get more seat time I'll make the transition to R compound tires.

Thanks for the links. Not only providing definitions for the different classes, the scca rulebook is a good baseline guide for rollbar design and safety equipment installs too.

Cheers!

I'm quite excited...I have to share! Lookie at what will eventually be going into here:


...this bad boy:


...a performance rebuilt '88-'89 D16A1 w/matching rebuilt tranny (an OBX lsd will be going in the tranny). Sourced from a local rpr member w/a penchant for correctness and detail!

You're funny
Edited by lxndr, 21 October 2006 - 09:24 PM.

May the flee's of a thousand camels, infest your .............

Your car is a masterpiece in the making. Have you ever tried to tally up the hours you have invested thus far? Even a WAG?

Nicest build I've seen lately. Kudo's!!!!!


Cheers,


Donnie

lucky

Nice Engine. I started to do the same swap but with a DX so hopefully i will start a Topic on the project.

Your're worse than me buying other peoples stuff! What's the story with the oem you inherited? At least you have close access to the "specialist"! I think you two should take a road trip north and help out someone who doesn't have enough tme on his hands,Yet! I did get my Celica seats in though. A small consolation. JS

Hi Strudel! If by "the oem" you mean the '87 D16A1 brown top w/121K miles on it that WAS going to go in the 'box...I'll save that for my possible next project: a 3g stripped down roadster I call the CIVSTER...!

No, really...

Ok, is it my imagination, or are two "dick heads" riding in the Kakabox?