If i bought all the parts, would it be possible to rebuild the motor on my own. I just want to get new bearings and seals and rings/rods/pistons/seals stuff like that, just OEM stuff to restore the power lost over the 200k miles on the motor. Will i need to take things to a machine shop or could i do must of it with regular tools?
If you dont mind, let me know what are the main things i should replace, i know i should have searched, but this is faster(supposed to be working on english project)
3
Rebuilding A D16a1
Started by 87CRXkid, Nov 29 2005 10:11 PM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 29 November 2005 - 10:11 PM
#2
Posted 30 November 2005 - 12:08 AM
you will need a machine shop, for one to bore your cylinders, for two, to rebuild your head. The rest, you could probably do yourself.
#3
Posted 30 November 2005 - 12:55 AM
Don't forget the factory manual. Don't bother with the $10 Haynes or Chiltons, get the Helms Service manual. I got mine for about $30 but you could probably get it cheaper somewhere else. If not, contact Helms. Lots of good stuff. Good luck.
#4
Posted 30 November 2005 - 09:57 AM
boring isn't neccesary depending on the mileage. all you may need for the cylinders is a good hone. but like mentioned earlier, you could do the bottom/all gaskets and then get a machine shop to do the head.
#5
Posted 02 December 2005 - 06:44 PM
measuring tools such as dial indicators, telescoping guages, vernier calipers, micrometers, feeler guages are necesary. I am taking the cnc machinist course at my local IT school and let me tell you after you go in that course u look at automotive engines a bit differentley
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#6
Posted 02 December 2005 - 10:16 PM
yea, i hope to take a class similar to that,probably automotive/industrial(probably both) engineering at greenville tech whenever i graduate from high school. Planning to be a robotic technician at the BMW plant.
#7
Posted 03 December 2005 - 04:40 PM
QUOTE (87CRXkid @ Dec 2 2005, 07:16 PM)
yea, i hope to take a class similar to that,probably automotive/industrial(probably both) engineering at greenville tech whenever i graduate from high school. Planning to be a robotic technician at the BMW plant.
Depending on cylinder wall taper (this is where u'd use the micrometer/vernier caliper) to see if it was the rings that took the majority of the wear or the cylinder walls. If the taper is minimal, I'd say you can do the rebuild yourself. You'd need all the usual, rings, bearings (main and rod), gasket set, and oilpump is a great time to replace too. As for the head there is much to learn in there. If you've got a spare, or a junk head lying around, practice is good.
For the head rebuild, you could dissassemble the head yourself, saving some shop time and $$$, to do this, you'll need a valve spring compressor, and a small 'pen magnet' would be helpfull in cathing the locks when the valve spring and retainer are compressed. Other than that, it should be standard hand tools.
When you take the bare head to the machine shop, get then to have a look at the valve guides and seats. Those are most likely what will be needing attention. I would get all new valves and valve seals and lifters (or the lifters could be blead down and reused if necessary.
Just remeber the hardest part of the rebuild will prob. be making sure you know where every part goes back on and that everything stays organised during the rebuild. I will tell you this now, it will alway be more complicated than you originally thiught, because there are always small things that you didn't think off that will bite you in the ass as the project progesses. But it can be done, just don't be in a hurry when you do this. Do lots of relearch, and familearise yourself with the motor (look at lots of pics, and ask lots of qts.) In the end, it might be cheaper to find a lower mileage motor.
If you do end up doing this there are people that will help you. Just post it.
Trevor
#8
Posted 03 December 2005 - 05:09 PM
Yea and don’t go el cheapo and cut corners buy good parts and do it right. And if you’re un-sure go talk to a machine shop they will usually take the time to explain it to you if you’re giving them busyness.
The first time I rebuilt my blacktop I did every thing my self (I have done it before) I think I switched a piston. And I just got new rings/gaskets/bearings that’s it. Anyways it smoked like a siv when I put it back together and not too much power.
So I had to take it back apart get new rings gaskets bearings, crank turned, bored + new pistons and eagle rods (which wont fit on oem pistons), decked, head resurfaced, flywheel resurfaced, and balanced, head port and polished. So anyway if I did all that the first time it would have saved a lot of head ache. I think if I did another one I would have the shop do all that and assemble the short block...
The first time I rebuilt my blacktop I did every thing my self (I have done it before) I think I switched a piston. And I just got new rings/gaskets/bearings that’s it. Anyways it smoked like a siv when I put it back together and not too much power.
So I had to take it back apart get new rings gaskets bearings, crank turned, bored + new pistons and eagle rods (which wont fit on oem pistons), decked, head resurfaced, flywheel resurfaced, and balanced, head port and polished. So anyway if I did all that the first time it would have saved a lot of head ache. I think if I did another one I would have the shop do all that and assemble the short block...
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#9
Posted 05 December 2005 - 01:57 AM
lifters bled down?
uhhhh
if im not mistaken hondas dont have hydrolic lifters
at least i hope not caz if so the wrong ones are in my d16a1
oh and around here, and as far as ive seen anywhere else, there are NO low mileage d16a1's. i think mine might be bc it looks like there is some yellow paint and its too clean to be at 260 (where the car i took it from is at)
i dont think ive seen one under 200k period. and most of the time, ragged like hell
uhhhh
if im not mistaken hondas dont have hydrolic lifters
at least i hope not caz if so the wrong ones are in my d16a1
oh and around here, and as far as ive seen anywhere else, there are NO low mileage d16a1's. i think mine might be bc it looks like there is some yellow paint and its too clean to be at 260 (where the car i took it from is at)
i dont think ive seen one under 200k period. and most of the time, ragged like hell
QUOTE (kjeffery @ Apr 17 2009, 06:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yet again Scott, you have all the answers
QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Apr 17 2009, 07:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
No. All the answers are in the Kakabox build thread.
QUOTE (Lymitliss @ May 26 2009, 08:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Ohh yeah I guess that makes sense. King Kaymo has all the answers
#10
Posted 05 December 2005 - 05:07 PM
QUOTE (kaymo @ Dec 5 2005, 07:57 AM)
lifters bled down?
uhhhh
if im not mistaken hondas dont have hydrolic lifters
at least i hope not caz if so the wrong ones are in my d16a1
oh and around here, and as far as ive seen anywhere else, there are NO low mileage d16a1's. i think mine might be bc it looks like there is some yellow paint and its too clean to be at 260 (where the car i took it from is at)
i dont think ive seen one under 200k period. and most of the time, ragged like hell
uhhhh
if im not mistaken hondas dont have hydrolic lifters
at least i hope not caz if so the wrong ones are in my d16a1
oh and around here, and as far as ive seen anywhere else, there are NO low mileage d16a1's. i think mine might be bc it looks like there is some yellow paint and its too clean to be at 260 (where the car i took it from is at)
i dont think ive seen one under 200k period. and most of the time, ragged like hell
I got lucky when I found my zc with 140,000km(86,000miles) and it was a roachbomb.
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