I will take one pair.

Thank you for that information.  I went to the parts books and they have the spacer included in the parts drawing, but no mention of it in the listing below the drawing.

 

I'll have to make one.

 

Thanks again.

I'll be using a 15/16" MC. The Civic sedans of this era are getting scarce in these parts. I can make a spacer if necessary. How thick is the spacer? When you say two different lengths are you talking about the pedal clevis?

Why look for a solution in the suspension?

If you apply an aero aid at one end and it upsets the balance, then apply an aero aid at the other end to reset the balance.

A splitter, a lower air dam, cannards, etc.

I have read posts here that refer to using a 1G teg brake booster in a 3G/1G Civic/CRX. They mention making modifications to the firewall.

Does anyone know the extent of modification necessary to accomplish this swap?

I am going to install a master cylinder with a larger piston. This will shorten travel and raise effort levels. I want the shorter travel, but I want to offset the increased effort needed.

Anyone done this swap?

I have read posts here that refer to using a 1G teg brake booster in a 3G/1G Civic/CRX. They mention making modifications to the firewall.

Does anyone know the extent of modification necessary to accomplish this swap?

I am going to install a master cylinder with a larger piston. This will shorten travel and raise effort levels. I want the shorter travel, but I want to offset the increased effort needed.

Anyone done this swap?

Thanks for responding.

 

I thought of including the Integra parts but they have different P/Ns for the Hub/Bearing.

 

The dimensions from the parts books seem the same in most respects with the one difference being the width of the bearings.

 

Offsets, and flange diameters, are the same.  The bearing ID is called out as 1.124" on the Integra and 1.12" on the Civic.  Is it really .004" different?  I doubt it.  The parts books just have to get these numbers pretty close for most purposes.

 

Will this spindle give the car a wider or narrower track?  I don't know.  Do you?  Has anyone done this particular swap?

 

What the heck.  I'll give it a try.  Let's do this.

 

Tried to PM you.  It says you can't receive anymore messages.  Full inbox?

 

Thanks,

Tom

 

BTW, I listed the size in the original post as 1.21".  That was wrong.  The dimension is really 1.12".  Sorry if that confused anyone.

I'm going to fit the larger spindles to a 1984 CRX.

 

Looking for the larger spindles that came on the 85-87 cars.

Should be 1.12"

 

Not looking for the smaller spindles that came on the 1984 cars.

Those spindles are 0.984"

 

Also need all the brackets, linkage, and bearings off the right side for the sway bar.

 

Thanks,

Tom

Thank you for the information.  The Krytox seems like it's a very high temp grease, which I think would help as my grease smells really burned in the bad hubs.  Once it's burned I suspect it's no longer lubricating the bearings and accelerated wear begins.  I have drums which likely retain a lot of heat near the hub.

 

Do you think changing to discs would help shed heat around the bearings?

 

It looks like the manufacturer has lots of different varieties.  I suppose I'll need to call DuPont for a recommendation.

 

Thanks again,

Tom

Thank you djstevic!  That was helpful advice.  Mine's a LeMons car, so our race sessions are of similar length.

 

After poring through a bunch of parts books it appears the 1984 Civic rear spindles are about .140" smaller in diameter than the 1987 Civics.  This may mean the bearing has a larger O.D. too.  I won't be able to tell unless I get one, because the parts books don't say.

 

djsteviec are you using a 1984 or are you using the 1985 CRX in your sig as the basis for your race car?  What is the I.D. of the bearings you are using?

 

And in case anybody knows, does the larger bearing last longer than the smaller one?

 

Anybody using a later model spindle/bearing in longer races with grippy tires?  How do they last?

 

We are getting enough grip that the upper track bar mount ripped up the unibody and the car makes peeing-dog poses.  It chews up wheel bearings too.

 

This is with junkyard and OEM replacement  shocks and springs made for various vehicle manufacture's products:

 

https://drive.google...SWF1SG5tR3JrNkE

 

Whole rear suspension cost less than $100.

 

Thanks again, djsteviec!

 

Tom

 

 

 

 

Thank you. Sounds good.  Is there any particular grease that needs to be used or is it just don't use the grease it came with?

I'm using my CRX as an endurance racer and I'm having some trouble with the bearing life of the rear hubs.

 

After not even a full race the hubs loosen noticably. I install them with 134lbs of torque as per the manual, and they turn smoothly without being able to make the wheel wobble them by hand, but after 130 laps they loosen to the point I can wobble them when they are jacked off the ground.

 

Is there any other Honda hub with bigger bearings that will fit these spindles?

 

Thanks,

Tom