Which DA? DA1 and DA3, if I remember correctly, are 86-9 Integras, and their brakes bolt onto 84-7 Civic/CRX's. DA8 and DA9 (again, I may be off on the numbers) are 90-93 Integras, and their brakes are 10.3" bits that won't work on the smaller hub/knuckles.

Wow, that's out of control. Here in AZ, I spent $27 for an every-other-year emissions inspection (dyno/sniffer, and a fairly weak visual) plus $15/year to register my '87 DX.

Sell the rear trailing arms, complete with the brake stuff (hoses & ebrake cables included), to someone with an 88-00 Civic. They're more or less useless to a 1G CRX owner, but there's a slight track increase with the DA trailing arms that makes them good for the later cars.

The front brakes won't bolt on. They also don't fit under any 13" or some 14" wheels (stock 86-7 CRX Si wheels won't fit), and you'll need an adapter of some sort to mount the calipers. I've heard that Fastbrakes makes a bracket to mount the 10.2" caliper on a 9.5 or 8.9" hub (like you'll find on a 1G), but it's not on their web site.

The independent rear suspension definitely won't work. It requires a whole bunch of mounting points that you won't find on a 1G chassis- there are 4 various arms & links connecting the trailing arm to the body.

A few wires (4?) have to be extended/moved when swapping a D16A1 into an 86-7 CRX Si- the emissions box ends up on the firewall, instead of over on the driver's side. I ended up building a jumper harness, since I was starting with a parts CRX with the engine swap already in it. Of course, I could be totally off base, since it's been about 2 years since I put together an EFI swap .

you've got email.

Funny you should mention that...my car's been out of comission since September or so of last year, when the D16A1 bottom end let go right after I got all the bugs worked out with my Mikunis. I've thought about converting it to EFI and throwing an EW4 into it, but I really don't have any use for a track car right now .

Oh, Jeff- if you want to go up to 2.0L, do it with a sleeved, big-bore 1.8L shortblock. The B16's shorter stroke will lead to some really thin cylinder walls at 2.0L, and stroking it is a whole lot more expensive than finding a 1.8L bottom end to start with. Try and get a hold of Tage Evanson, since he's been running a 2.0L B18C1 in his SM Integra.

Chris Jannasch, at Apex in Tempe, (480)967-6515. He really knows his shit about Hondas, and does awesome work at pretty reasonable prices. I really wish at this point I'd had him build a D16A1 for me instead of buying this '91 Si .

86-7 are all the same as far as shape & design go, but Si's have the checkerboard pattern on the fabric, and DX's are solid-color (mine were gray, but it may vary by interior color).

Not at all. In fact, I'd make the statement that there's no such thing as a USDM CRX, because CRX's were made in Japan, and imported into the US...meaning they're export-market (built in Japan, for use in the US), not domestic market. For example, a '94 hatch for Canadian consumption would be CDM, since they were actually built by Honda of Canada, a Corvette built in Bowling Green, KY for US use would be USDM, but a Toyota Cavalier built in the US & sold in Japan would be JEM or some such thing (not JDM, since it's not really Japanese, and certainly isn't "domestic market").

Gear selection, as it relates to fuel economy, is related to load: if you have to be at 20% throttle to maintain a given speed in 4th gear, but 40% throttle to stay at that speed in 5th, you'll use less fuel traveling in 4th. It's not rocket science, but without an AFC or something similar displaying TPS numbers, it's a bit tough to tell while you're driving.

If it's lined up straight, that might not be a huge deal. I'd try loosening its bolts & making sure it's in a neutral position with the car at rest though, or you'll have some really funky preload issues.

Continue that weld the rest of the way around, of course. And don't cut the stock torsion bar section (the part sticking into the axle) off until after it's welded.

Yes, but it doesn't really matter here. You still only have one brake pedal, and it's going to be relatively soft if you still have rubber lines somewhere.

Some '90-91 Civic EX owner is going to be wondering why his brakes are so soft thanks to me.

Add me to the list for taking 1hr+ to grind a Prelude MC to fit a CRX booster. There's a lot of material to be taken off, and I was using a low-speed bench grinder . It looks like there's some variability in parts-store information about the Prelude MC's, since at least Checker/Shuck's/Kragen listed the same part for all the Preludes along with 86-9 Integras when I checked.

I have a set of Vial 13x6's with a 33mm offset and 57.1mm centerbore (for 4x100 VW's, so they're a hair loose on a Honda) sitting around. They're not the most attractive things, but they're all in usable condition.

Shipping might get a little pricey, they're about 13lbs each, and would be coming from ZIP 85225. If you're interested, make me an offer on the wheels, since they're currently sitting around with no tires waiting for a project that'll probably never happen.

Here's a picture, when I was making sure they'll fit over the 9.5" brakes: http://www.public.as...jayost/vial.jpg

Wow, that's a really fast 1/8 ET (which guesstimates out to a 13.5 1/4) for that low of a trap. What were the 60's like?

The "3g" in question looks more like a chop-topped VW than a Civic, IMO.

It's better when you're dealing with people who won't admit that it's a Neon. Chrysler managed to fool a surprising number of people by leaving that other n-word off the car entirely .

Oh, and I'd buy a used SRT-4 long before I would anything used with the WRX 5-speed .

Well, I suppose you could say that Dodge's experience with the 2.2/2.5L turbo motors played a role in the development of the turbo 2.4L. But saying a DOHC 2.4L engine is "derived" from a non-crossflow headed SOHC motor makes it sound like you don't know what you're talking about. Here's a Hot Rod article where they go over some of the details of the turbo 2.4L: http://hotrod.com/te...e/113_0309_srt/

I have some doubts about anyone with an NA D-series or LS engine in a 1G staying ahead of one in a straight line- they're kind of heavy by modern standards (29xx), but with 220whp stock, they're capable of high 13's at around 97mph- which looking at the "RPR's All Time Quickest" thread, not many people on this site are matching.Got any facts to back that up, or was that statement entirely conjecture and your personal bias?

IMO, it makes more power than you can really use well in a narrow-tired FWD car...but for a new, quick car in the low $20k range, it's about the best thing out there. Personally, I'd rather spend the money on a Saabaru 9-2X with an uppipe & turboback, some sort of tune, and STi takeoff springs/struts, but that's not too warranty-friendly, in addition to adding up to a couple thousand more than the SRT.

Gear oil ratings are different than motor oil numbers, so 75w90 isn't all that different in consistency from 10w30. Personally, I've had good luck with GM's friction modified Synchromesh- it's pricey ($12/qt or so), but it's cleared up a couple grinds that would have otherwise had me looking for a new tranny.

A CG tranny won't bolt onto any EW-series engine except for the 4WD Wagovan block. He's full of crap.

DOT 5 is crap. It's silicone based, which means it's safe if you spill some on the paint of a spotlessly-restored hot rod or whatever. The bad news is that it become compressible at high temps, which is exactly what you don't want brake fluid to do.

DOT4 is the way to go, IMO- most of the relatively common 4-rated fluids have wet boiling points around the dry specs of the super-cheap DOT 3 fluids. Personally, I prefer the gold-bottled Valvoline Synthetic fluid, it's around $6/qt from Autozone or Checker/Shuck's/Kragen.

Porterfield pads are pretty good, but I wouldn't really recommend them over Hawks, at least for your application. HPS's are a damn good street pad, and HP+'s are a good compromise for street/track day use, but they're nosier (and dustier) than is necessary for autox.

I've never heard of rubber lines being more permeable to water than any other part of the braking system. The fluid will tend to absorb water over time, but it shouldn't be happening through the lines themselves. Watch out for the SS lines, though, and replace them every year or so (two years, max), because dirt will tend to work its way under the braid, and wear holes in the teflon inner hose. You'll never see it until one bursts and lets all your fluid out, so IMO it's a situation where you're better off safe than sorry. If that's not a worthwhile tradeoff for better pedal feel, especially at high temperatures, you should probably go back to rubber lines.

I looked into a carbed B-series, at least long enough to figure out that it's too expensive for me . You'd need some sort of timing controller to make up for the missing ECU- the OEM setup won't do well with not having injectors hooked up. Electromotive makes a damn good standdalone timing controller, but there might be a cheaper option out there...

http://www.roadandtr...article_id=2213
3,570lbs

The power should be nice in higher gears in a straight line (where the FWD-ness is less of an issue), brakes seem to be ok, and handling is pretty much determined by it being a 3700+lb (w/ driver) car on 235-width Eagle RS-A's (which are crap).

Didn't Diamond Star Motors fold after the 2Gs went out of production, and the 3G and later Eclipses are all Mitsubishi? That said, Mitsu's in enough trouble that I'd be a bit uneasy buying one.....

Honda MTF is a step up from regular 5W-30, but it's pretty far from being the best. I'd suggest Pennzoil Synchromesh as a 1st choice (same stuff as the GM-branded fluid, for cheaper), GM Friction-Modified Synchromesh ($12/qt) if you have minor grinding issues that you want to clear up & can't find the Pennzoil, or Redline or Motul.

Are you draining the float bowl in the carb?