Swap info for D and B Engines

The cars Well first if you live in California get a D16A1, a ZC is illegal by all means. the D16A1 is alomst identical to the ZC D series DOHC

D series

• At the top of the family tree for the D Series, DOHC 1600cc, 16-valve engine is the JDM spec ZC engine of 135 hp.
• Next in line was the Euro-spec D16A8 which makes about 120 hp.
• In the US, we got the D16A1 Black Valve Cover version in the 1988-89 Integra, with 118 hp.
• And at the end of the line is the D16A1 Brown Valve Cover version in the 1986-87 Integra with 113hp.
• All the rest of the D series

 B series

• ALL DOHC
• All except for the B18 LS motors and B20 CRV motors have VTEC.

Swap cost and other info.

To swap any B-series engine into your CRX you are looking at a minimum of $3-4000 by the time it done.

• The B16A and the B18A (the 90-91 B18A) are going to be the easiest as far as wiring is concerned.
• The B18B (94+ non-VTEC) and B18C (GS-R) are all OBD-1 or OBD-2 motors meaning that you'll have to do all the wiring necessary for the B16A & B18A swap and then some.
• The B18C would be the most expensive route setting you back $2-3500 for the engine package alone.
• The B18A would be the least expensive assuming you could find a decent junkyard powerplant.
• The USDM B20B style intake manifold will not fit. USDM B20Z style does fit in 3G, unaware of test in 1G
• The GSR intake manifold won't fit anyway, unless you can move the engine forward or the firewall backwards.
• The B20A3/5 from the 90-91 Prelude is not going to be fun. The motor sits at a different angle than all the other B series motors. The Hasport mounts will do you no good with this motor. It does have good output, and most sources say the boost well, but all agree, they are not worth the hassel in a 1st gen.
• A stock GSR motor will not fit without serious mods to the firewall or mounts. but they are essentially the same thing, both 1.6L DOHC powerplants, the browntop producing 118hp, and the blacktop making 120 or 130

D/ZC Series Swap

Wiring harness: Use the 1st Gen CRX Si's wiring harness. Plugs right into the 86-87 Integra sensors, injectors, & distributor.
Distributor & ECU: Make sure you use an 86-87 Integra ECU & Distributor. That's the only DOHC ECU (besides a JDM one) designed to work with a Vacuum Advance Ignition (distributor), which only came on the 86-87 Integra's. -***Do not use an 88-89 Teg' ECU or Distributor**** Simply because it has an internal coil ignition just like all the 88+ civic/CRX/Integra use, which is completely different than the 86-87 ignition components.
Tools:Here this is from another forum member: The tools you will need are. Spanners 6mm - 22mm, Sockets 6mm - 22mm, Ratchet & extensions, Ball joint puller, Chasse stands 4, Block & tackle or engine hoist, Screw drivers, Pin punch, Hammer, Grinder or file, Electrical wire cutters, Pry par.

Now this swap is just that a SWAP every thing from the teg driveline will just bolt into the civic. There is only one modification that you need to do with this swap. The front civic engine mount (passenger side) is used when swapping the D16a. It bolts right up to your d16a and obviously straight up to your civic, The only problem with this is that the D16a has a big black plastic timing belt cover. This cover rubs up hard against the civic mount. So all you need to do is just grind or file a small notch in it. Some people don't bother, but it will scratch rub if you don’t. So that's it 2 sec with the angle grinder, or 10 min with a file and your done. Don’t worry if you don't know were to grind just try bolting your civic mount to the d16a and you will see plan as day were the notch must go. Ok I will answer a couple of your questions. Don't use the teg torsion bars, I tried them and they are softer than the civic I know that sounds silly but its true they are (1/2 a mm thicker but way longer so softer) So don't bother. The D16a and gear box will add about 50kg to the car. This doesn't cause any big bottoming out problems. I just didn't run the bars as low. 2wd civic wagon bars are a lot stiffer. I will be putting them in soon. As For the front brakes you would be silly not to use the teg brakes. Because you must use the teg axles, spindles, hubs, knuckles and brakes a complete swap as one unit, a no brainier really. Just remove the shock, brake line and steering ball joint from the teg knuckle then undo the main lower ball joint. Now you have it ready to take off as a complete unit. Axle, knuckle, brakes & hub. This replaces all the civic gear. Now this can then be bolted straight onto your civics' main bail joint. The axles would slide into the gearbox, attach the brake line and steering ball joint and that's it.So the only components you keep from your civic front end is the sub frame with steering rack, torsion bars, suspension arms and shocks. Everything ells becomes teg. The EFI loom and computer. This is not hard you just need to go about it carefully. There is a huge spaghetti of wire's running from the computer under the dash and then in every direction. Don't pull you hair out and give up. 80% of the wires under the dash are for things like power windows, fans, dash lights, and wipers crap like that. If you are anything like me you will want to keep you civic on the road as long as possible. And off the road as short as possible. So while your counting the days to your uni Hilidays. If you have time get all you can prepared. Bolting it all in only takes one day. So get to work on that teg. Get it up on stands wheels off and start unplugging the entire loom from the engine. Take out the radiator power steering pump. Just start undoing all you can to get the engine free from the engine bay. You will have to get under the car and undo the exhaust. trust me its best to take it off at the head and then undo the collector pipe off the car, bolts are very tight. While you are under their grab a 10mm socket and un bolt the shifter stabilizing bar from the gearbox. Then punch the pin out from were the shifter joins the gearbox. The pin is stiff but if will move .Now the gear box is free from your two-shifter rods. Now take off the complete axle assembly brakes, knuckles, axle like I said before. You should be able to leaver the axles from the gear box with a large screw driver but be careful. and also from the extension shaft. If you haven’t already start unbolting the AC, clutch cable, throttle cable, ground straps, fuel lines and all the other things that go from the engine to the body. You should now have only the 3 mounts holding the engine in. * Some of the bolt on your civic and the teg will be dam hard to undo after years on the car. A couple of tricks for the tight bolts. Two spanners linked to one another give a lot more leverage than one short one. Use an old solid socket bar and shock the bolt loose with hammer blows to the bar even try a blow or two clock wise then anti clock wise to undo (This method works wonders) This shocking can get loose that initial bind the nut has on the thread. Once you have some tension on the hoist you can un bolt the left, right and rear engine mount. Now slowly hoist it out as one unit, gear box and engine. Be careful it doesn't snag on anything. Now you have it on the ground you can unbolt the teg front engine mount, as you will use the civic one .For The gear box mount and rear mount use the tegs .Now you should have an empty teg engine bay .Get inside the car and unplug the computer from the loom and put is some were safe. Take the carpet out of the teg and you will see some wires going from the computer to the rear left hand side of the car just before the rear wheel. This is were the fuel pump is. Get under the car and undo the fuel pump. I cut the feed line to the pump leaving about 6" this then slides onto your stock civic fuel filter with a EFI hose clamp. That way the pump gets filtered fuel and lasts longer (saves taking the tank out to). Any thing before the pump is low pressure after it is HIGH pressure you will be able to trace the two wires from the pump back to the computer. I only uses one of the wires.+ and ran a small wire from the pump to ground (the chasse). Now taking the teg dash out will make this next step a possible .You don't have to be all that careful with it. As the dash is not of much use to you .If you go to engine bay you will see a little silver box on the passenger side this is the resistor box for the injectors .the wires for this run through the passenger side of the fire wall. You will need to spend a bit f time tracing them back to the EFI computer loom. The other main part of the loom is on the driver side. A big thick run of wires enters the fire wall rapped up in electrical tape with wires for the lights and other crap in the engine bay. There is a small black relay under the dash it is on a bord with about 4 others its the biggest one. This is the main relay it’s very simple. It is just connected to the ignition so that when you turn the key to run, it will send power to the fuel pump for 3 second to build up pressure. Then when you turn the key to start it will run the pump continuously until you turn the key back to off. It also provide So what you should end up with is a thick length of wires. That you can run through the firewall of the civic to the engine bay (take out your window wiper motor. Makes it easier to get the wires through the firewall). You will need to make an extra hole in the rubber grommet that's their now. Or do as I did and cut a big slit in it. This then plugs into the loom on the D16a.This same run of wires will run the other way down from the firewall along the floor and plug into the computer. There will also be a couple of wires ruining to the relay, that is wired to your civic ignition. Then one or two wires running out the back to the fuel pump. . I didn't need to cut any of the stock civic wires. I used the civic alternator and wires. You can use your civic clutch cable they are the same. The throttle cable must we swapped for the tegs. Just have to crawl under the dash to hook it up. You will need the teg EFI fuel filter, bolts to the civic fire wall. Top radiator hose from teg needs be cut a little shorter to fit. As I said before a lot of this work can be done before you even touch you CIVIC. You need a copper fuel line joiner. Simply a barbed piece of copper pipe used to joint to pieces of EFI fuel line .You need to run about 3 feet of EFI fuel line from the hard feed line at the fire wall, to the fuel filter on the passenger side. At the intake end of the EFI fuel filter will be about 6" of line with a bolt on connection. Cut the line just before this connection and slide in the copper joiner. The other end slides into the 3-foot length of hose. Use 2 EFI fuel clamps on the joiner! Now for your return line you will have to be a little creative here. The return line on the civic is about 1/2 the size of the teg. It works just fine but you will need a reducer to neck down from the D16a fuel rail to the civic size line. Don't listen to all this crap about replacing the fuel lines the fed is the same size on the civic as the teg , the return line is smaller but after almost 2 years driving I have had no problem. You use the civic shift linkage, it works fine .The gear stick will sit back a little. First will be where neutral was. I found this to be a good thing because you don't have to reach forward too much to put the car in 1st. As the rear end of my wreck teg was cut off. I didn't get the chance to swap the rear teg disc brakes. I am sure it isn't hard. Get the engine in first. Then see if your are sick of swinging spanners loll. Got an 87 hatch with 89 teg electronics and a D16. Will the ZC ECU (ZC2) improve my D16A1 Black Top performance? Will a set of ZC cams bolt up to the D16A1 head? - -To put them back in alignment,. just get yourself a set of regrinds from shadbolt. He has about six different profiles to choose from. You just can't go too wild or the ecu will not function properly The ecu from the 88-89 teg is very very similar to the ZC ecu so no it wont make a difference. cams are usable with adj. cam gears i believe the cams are about 8 degrees out of sync. The difference of the Black and Brown ZC The brown top's are vacuum advance the black top's are electronic advance -Brown top ZC DOHC 1.6 86-87 has HONDA name on it -The 88-89 JDM Integra/Quint black top ZC will bolt in the same as the brown top. The differences are wiring for the VSS. Everything else is the same - -You CAN NOT use the brown top distributor on the black top engine. Will the Black Top ZC fit. -Yes and no , you will need to get yourself the knuckles/hubs because you have to use 1g Integra axles. It's not really all that complicated....just a bit of wiring. -The black top zc has different mount locations than the Brown top zc and if you want it to fit you have to fabricate yourself some mounts. -Might be able to use a combination of CRX and Integra mounts to fit. -Black top ZC -PM7 ECU (that is the black top ecu) -88-91 Civic/CRX Si wiring harness - USDM version -If you use that, you don’t have to worry about the VSS. It is already pinned into the ECU and the wiring harness is pinned for it as well -Make sure the motor you're buying has the valve cover bolts on the inside rather than the outside of the cover. This is an easy visual indicator of 1G ZCs and 2G ZCs (- referred to as "black tops"). Installing a ZC -The ZC will mate up to the cat section on a stock Si exhaust, but not sure about the DX exhaust. It looks like the DX cat-back starts where the cat section of the Si exhaust does, so it might line up, but you'll want to replace it because the DX stock catback is tiny. -If you're starting with an Si, you don't need to mess with the fuel system. If you're starting with a carbed car, you have to replace the main wiring harness in the car, along with at least one fuel line, the pump, and possibly the gas tank. -Side note, the 85 si gas tanks smaller than the 86 si tanks approx. 1 US gallon, according to the owners manuals. –Don’t use the 87 Si ecu. BAd power from that ecu and low rev limit... - The ECU you want to use is the PG7 it's good for eproms -The brown top ECU also has a richer mixture for the hungrier engine -The CRX Si ecu also redlines at 6500.....where the brown top Integra ecu redlines at 7200. Plus you have the fuel cutoff at a lower RPM for the CRX.............just do yourself a favor and get the ecu for the Integra Installing a VSS in a CRX cluster is every bit as easy to do as it is to say. -Removing the VSS pulser from the stamped steel speedo housing in a CRX is VERY easy. .The BROWN Valve cover is equipped with: -Flat top pistons -Thicker rods -Square styled intake manifold -Vacuum advance ignition with external coil The BLACK Valve cover is equipped with: -Domed pistons -Slightly lighter rods -Rounded intake manifold. -Electronic advance distributor with internal coil. - You just take the pulser off an 88-89 Integra speedo, plug it into the CRX speedometer cluster, grind away some of the plastic on the CRX housing, use the Integra amp (or HF amp, depending on which wiring harness you are using), you have VSS. Engine websites www.asapmotors.com www.jspecjdm.net - - -A b16A or b18c5 still hit the firewall. -You can get a GSR(b18c) in but you have to use a skunk2 manifold. But now you just added a few hundred bucks to an already very expensive swap. - If you itching for big power you can do a B18C5 but the wiring is going to be an even bigger headache then it already is and you couldn’t run the C5 trans you would have to buy a cable trans. -Swap a D16A1 from a USDM (or CDNDM) Acura Integra (87-89), or from a JDM importer a DOHC 1G ZC. The whole swap will cost you under $1000 if you do it yourself. -When you get a teg, you want an RS, or whatever the top model was, and make sure its an 88-89, so you get the black top D16A, its actually has more hp, but the swap is a little tougher -If you are swapping the entire harness, then the difficulty difference between the blacktop (88-89) and browntop (86-87) doesn't matter. -The difference lies within the distributor advance, the browntop has vacuum, much like the D15A3, where as the blacktop has electrical advance, and requires more wiring. -So as long as you swap the drivetrain and wiring/ecu/cluster straight in, all from the Integra, you won't have a problem (except for minor fuel routing/sending and cluster fitment issues) -The black top D16A1 has 2 fuel cuts. cold: 7000rpm warm: 7500rpm the fuel cut goes up to 7500rpm when the engine is fully warmed up and at operating temperature. Installing a D16 Engine Mounts -(total of 3 mounts on 84-87 Civic/CRX's): Use the stock Civic/CRX mounts on the rear cross member & front timing-belt side. Use an 86-89 Integra tranny mount for the tranny. The Civic/CRX tranny mount will make the motor sit crooked if you use it, so don't. -The 1986-1989 Integra DOHC D16 engine and transmission will bolt right into a 1st Gen CRX Axles: -Use a complete set of 86-89 Integra axles including the intermediate shaft. Knuckle/hub assembly: In order to use an 86-89 Teg' engine + transmission, you have to use the 86-89 Integra knuckle/spindle assembly so that you can utilize the Integra 3-piece axles. -The 86-89 Integra axles DO NOT plug into 84-87 Civic/CRX knuckle/spindle's. Shift linkage: Use a complete 86-89 Integra's shift linkage Civic hb,Sedan,Crx and the Teg 86-89 for the engine and wiring and brakes.

B Series Swap

Wiring harness: Really depends on the OBD version you'll be using read details below for more info
Tools:Here this is from another forum member: The tools you will need are. Spanners 6mm - 22mm, Sockets 6mm - 22mm, Ratchet & extensions, Ball joint puller, Chasse stands 4, Block & tackle or engine hoist, Screw drivers, Pin punch, Hammer, Grinder or file, Electrical wire cutters, Pry par.

If you have the money a B16 from a 00 SIR will work, BUT to use the tranny you need either the HASport or Place Racing Hydro to cable conversion, which is just more money. You can pick up a normal ODB0(no emissions junk to worry about) b16a for like 1600 bucks with a tranny and MAYBE a ECU, Hmotorsonline sells them pretty cheap, hell i just checked its even cheaper w/o the axles, which you probably cant use anyways. Next, you need to wire the car for VTEC, if your installing a VTEC engine. You could probably get the Zdyne one wire conversion or just get the HASport wiring harness if you dont want to tackle the wiring. Next is Axles. Hasport sells them, but so does Raxles, a memeber on here bought a set. I don’t know the price but hasport only sells the axles w/o the CV's, custom length. -Next is the shift linkage. You could probably chop up and use the shift linkage from the B16 no problem, yet again HASport sells a custom piece for $$$$$$. ECU wise, you need to find a package deal with a ECU, its your best bet. The ECUs you want are PR3 and some other one that I just dew a blank on hahaha. Then you have to worry about connecting your exhaust to the manifold. Chances are this swap is gonna run you WELL over 3500$ to be done right. If you want to use a PR3 or PWO ECU or if you want to use a ZDYne ECU. You have to do some mods to the harness to make the VTEC work if you use one of those ECU's B16A (1st Gen OBDO) out of an SIR. Easier to wire up. If your set on OBD1 engines you can bolt up any B series trans to any B series engine. So buy the engine you want and get the trans separately. Typically gets a bit more expensive this way. Putting a 00 Si B16A in your car is going to be another wiring adventure to run all the OBD2 stuff. Unless you change the distributor and the engine wiring harness to non-OBD (AKA OBD-0) you cannot use the PR3 or PW0 ecu's. The OBD-2 ecu's in the 00 Si have totally different connectors and a non-OBD ecu is not compatible with an OBD-2 distributor (and vice versa). If you want the most power for your buck, don't even fool around with the B16A, get a B18A/B or C, or a B20B/Z. You could probably find a U.S. si B16A2 or a Canadian SIR B16A2 but it would probably cost you around $2,000-3,000 just for the engine/tranny. The B16A2 comes with a hydraulic transmission while a B16A1 comes with a cable trans. the B16A1 engine/trans sells for $1,100 on a website somewhere, but the best way is if you can get a B16A2 engine for cheap then buy a B16A1 transmission. Then you would have a new B16 engine with a cable style tranny. Some might think its a little pricey but using an AEM plug and play computer for a 99-00 Si. take an Si harness and strip it down to the plugs that would be used for the engine (injectors, IAT, MAF,MAP, TPS, alternator, blah blah blah) and the stock ecu still runs the gauges and everything else. Any B series motor will require B series mounts which can sourced from Hasport or Place Racing. This swap will be costly.