How would I install a set of aftermarket torsion bars?

From RPRWiki

Set the emergency brake and loosen the front lug nuts. Raise the car using the bump under the radiator, in the center of the front of the car. This positioning will allow more clearance for your work area. But remember; most folks do not consider working under a car supported only by a jack as safe. You should use jack stands. I warned you. * Remove the wheel. * Remove the 17mm screw that locates the strut cartridge in the steering knuckle. Jiggle the strut to make sure it`s free of the knuckle. Also remove the 17mm height-adjusting nut and the dust cap on the front of the torque tube. * Hit the newly revealed front opening of the torque tube w/ PB Blaster. * Remove the 2- 12mm screws that hold the cup at the back of the torque tube to the frame rail. * Remove the cup. It is held on pretty well even after you remove the screws—here is the best method for removal I`ve found, so far. Hit it with PB Blaster. Liberally. Then alternately tap the top and bottom lips of the cup (the metal part, not the rubber insert) with the edge of your large flat-blade screwdriver. I found my 3lb hammer worked much faster than my 16oz. Patience will pay large dividends. Trust me, it will come off. * Remove the circlip from the rear end of the t-bar. * HOLD SOMETHING WOODEN LIKE A BROOM HANDLE OR A DOWEL against the back of the bar and hammer it forward. Again, a 3lb short-handled hammer works wonders here. You need to move the bar just far enough forward to reveal the wire clip at the front. Do not bash the bar past this point, it will make it more difficult to remove the bar later. * Remove the front clip and tap the bar all the way out, toward the rear of the vehicle. Remember this: if you encounter much resistance when attempting to move the bar, you have done something wrong. Double-check that the strut cartridge is free and that you removed the height-adjusting nut. * Remove the torque tube. Once the bar is out, the tube slides to the rear and off of the car. * If you choose not to machine the torque tube, match your aftermarket bars to the stock ones. Set the torque tube in place. Slide it as far forward as you can. Make sure you position the hole for the height-adjustment mechanism over the bolt onto which the nut will install. Do not install the nut, yet. * Grease the splined ends and insert the bar. You will have to align the key on the front end of the bar with the appropriate keyway on the arm that bolts to the lower control arm. * Now rotate the torque tube until its adjusting arm is about halfway up the adjusting bolt. Carefully engage the rear of the bar with the splines in the torque tube. If you apply very slight forward pressure with your hand, you will feel the splines as you wiggle the torque tube. Once you have engaged the splines, USE THE WOODEN DOWEL and your hammer to slide the bar forward until the circlip hits the tube. If you encounter more than moderate resistance, you are doing something wrong. If you go gorilla on the t-bar, you are going to have to buy a whole new set. Don`t even think about getting a replacement torque tube. Install the front dust cap and the height-adjusting nut. * Apply a light coating of grease to the torque tube cup and the rubber insert and reinstall. * Reinstall the screw that locates the strut cartridge in the steering knuckle. * Reinstall the wheel with the lug nuts finger-tight. * Put the wheel back on, drop the car, and set the height-adjusting nut as best you can. Don`t worry about it too much; the height-adjustment procedure takes a few tries before everything is correct. * Tighten the lug nuts.