Could I make my own adjustable Panhard Bar?

From RPRWiki

How To modify 84-87 Civic/CRX and 86-89 Integra Panhard bar: To make this mod simpler, I suggest picking a used Panhard bar from a wrecking yard. You will also need about 3` of 3/4\" diameter pipe, and a suitable sized bolt to fit inside of the above mentioned pipe snuggly. The bolt should be 3-5\" in length, and you will also need two nuts to fit the bolt. I used a 9/16\" bolt because it fit snug in the pipe I used; this size will vary depending on the pipe you use. This mod does require welding, if you cant weld it, any shop with a MIG welder should be able to weld this for you for a small charge, 1/2 hour of shop time, max. Since you will be welding to the parts of the old Panhard bar, you will need to remove the bushings; otherwise they will be burned during the welding. I strongly suggest polyurethane bushings as a replacement. Now it is very important to measure the overall length of the Panhard bar and keep note of it. The easiest way to do this is to use a piece of cardboard and trace out the Panhard bar. Once the Panhard bar has been measured, cut a section from the middle about 1`, leaving some of the channel at both ends. All excess paint needs to be removed for welding, sand down the inside of the channel to expose clean metal. Also during welding the undercoat paint will peel and burn off, to get rid off the undercoat just burn it off with a propane or acetylene torch. Let the pieces cool off. Now the bolt you will use for the adjustment should fit snug in the pipe. Cut only the head off of the bolt with a hacksaw. Spin on one of the nuts 1 or 2 turns. Measure the remaining threads left for the nut to spin onto, keep note of this measurement as well as mark the bolt. Now the smaller bushing end (the frame end) is where I put the adjustment, to make it possible to adjust it without removing the whole Panhard bar. So this part of the old channel can be cut a little shorter than the bigger bushing end. Now lay the two pieces of the original Panhard bar onto the cardboard you traced it on to. Measure the distance between bushing sleeves, subtract the amount of adjustment left on the bolt and this is the length of the pipe overall. Cut the pipe to length, then cut it into 2 sections one short and one long. Now assemble everything on the cardboard, sliding the pipe into the channel until it bottoms against the bushing sleeves, setting the bolt partially into the short tube at your earlier mark and resting the nut against the long tube. Make sure you allow for the adjustment to mostly shorten the Panhard bar, unless you plan on lifting your Teg. Now double check your overall length, and mark all the joints with an indelible marker or chalk, so you know where to line things up when welding. It is crucial to keep the pipe straight/square in the channel while welding. Use a vice to hold the channel, then place the appropriate pipe in the channel, making sure the pipe lays flat against the top part of the channel, double check the marks you made earlier then use the vice to squeeze the channel so that it clamps the pipe in place. Check your marks and begin welding. Repeat this process for the other end. Now insert the bolt into the short piece of pipe and line it up with its marks, then weld it in place. Last is the nut to be welded on the long piece, this is a little tricky to square up. Set the pipe straight up and down in the vice and place the nut on the end, Tack weld the nut to the pipe on one side only. Using a square check and adjust the nut as required and weld completely. Once it has cooled from the welding spin on the second nut all the way, this is the lock nut. Assemble the rest of the Panhard bar, paint it and install your new bushings. You can now install this in your car and adjust as necessary. Don`t forget to tighten that lock nut. OR You can buy a premade stainless steel adjustable bar with rod-ends from Red Pepper Racing.