29 replies to this topic

[phenams]

hello im new to forums and i heard that this is the place for anything i might have a problem with.

i bought a 86 crx. i look up the vin n i think its a basic dx. i got it dead, no wheels(they were stolen) in pieces.



4
this is wat i got myself into. as u see the pic above n another thing i consider myself a novice mechanic. mostly if its wrong on my car i look it up to find a way to fix it. mostly youtube. hahaha.
Well heres my begining
i towed it home n me n my friend (hes into honda. more of a cb7 i have one of those too) tore it apart becuz it didnt start at all. the previous owner said there might be something wrong with the head. we took it off n there was half a head gasket. so that wasnt good. we took the head to get machined down n it was warp it also had two cracks got those filled in and a bent valve. we order a complete gasket kit.
New
head gasket
thermostat
belts
spark plugs
ignition wires
oil
o2 sensor
cap n rotor
used radiator (pick a part)
air filter
some pluming
fuel pump
and more gaskets

so i thought hell yeah easy now lets start it. major FAIL we couldnt get it started something with the carb. i got one at the pick a part. but havnt install it yet. i spray the shit out of it with carb cleaner for three days.
i finally got it started but its a rough idle and dont know wat i can do to quiet it down.2000 rpms steady. ??? can there be something still wrong with the carb or the timing? any helps to get her on the road would really help. i took a video but i dont know if you can post them on here. ima try to upload it on to youtube and post the link here tommarow. thanks rpr.

[eec4tuner]

dump it,and get a weber..J/K! i'm sure some one here will chime in, this site is a wealth of info if you hang out here.

[Bubba]

Close the choke slightly while it is idling and see if it smooths out- if it does, then you have a vacuum leak that you need to track down. The rubber carb base plates get old and crack causing a leak- the easiest fix is smearing RTV sealer into the cracks.

If the choke doesn't help, double check the cam timing marks and your ignition timing.

[phenams]

@ eec4tuner hahaha i wud change it but i was reading the carb forum about stock vs weber and it seems that theres alot of fabrication to get the weber on right. n ryt now i only want to get her running then well c wat happens from there.

@bubba i try that thanks. i dont want to sound dumb but wat is RTV ??? is it like silicone or something like that.

HERES A LINK TO MY YOUTUBE VIDEOS.
i dont know if it works.


if it doesnt go to youtube and search " 1986 honda civic crx rough idle "

ive never heard the car run before so i wouldnt know if she sounds normal?? n my friend is on vacations so im on my own for now anyhelp from all of you is welcome.

[eec4tuner]

Try these?
http://www.redlinewe...its/auto/honda/

[1stgenhybridCR-X]

i had some problems with my carb and rough idle around 2000 rpm as well, this was with a rebuilt carb, so i found another carb from a crx that was running good and installed that one and it fixed it. your car might just need another carb. another thing to check before that is the fuel mixture screw on the carb to adjust it until it runs better and maybe the grounding electrical wires to the carb- i had to adjust/fix those as well, and if the rubber gasket plate underneath the carb looks cracked at all then its best to buy a new one to get the full seal instead of trying to fix it from what i have heard.

[PuddleSkipper]

Could need a new carb, but I don't know how many times I went to work on something and forgot to either hook up a vacuum line or created a new leak somehow. The Weber was a great direct bolt in solution (no fabrication required), and it minimize the amount of vacuum lines thereby creating less leaks. It also utilizes an aluminum spacer instead of the rubber carb insulator that cracks and leaks. However, if you have to go through DEQ it definately doesn't look stock and there are some additional steps that need to be done like possibly changing the jets depending on your elevation and one thing I didn't know was that the distributor vacuum has to be hooked directly to the manifold and NOT to the vacuum port on the carb itself. The directions for installation are general instructions even though the kit says "Honda". Wish someone would make an adapter plate for the Weber to bolt on the factory air cleaner to make it more "stock" looking and the air filter would be more readily available at the local autoparts store, however, some cutting would probably be required to the air cleaner itself. If you decide to stay with the stock carb you can Devac it and that should eliminate most of your vacuum leaks. If it needs to pass DEQ you can still Devac it, but just block off vacuum lines with BB's, ball bearings, and small pieces of bolts concealed within the vacuum line itself as close to the carb as possible. Hope that helps

[Bubba]

@bubba i try that thanks. i dont want to sound dumb but wat is RTV ??? is it like silicone or something like that.


Yes- RTV= liquid gasket maker/sealer

[NWClassicHonda]

Great find, save her for sure.

[phenams]

Okay so i took the other carb that i got from an identical one to get rebuild and installed. to make things easier but now i can't even get it to stay on it sounds like its turning on but after a few seconds it dies. the guy that installed it said it might be the timing belt? or that the catalytic converter might be plugged up.
i still need to adjust the timing at the distributor but i wouldn't know if this fixes it.

i read the post on devac n i think i might go ahead and try it with the other carb i took off the only thing i dont really understand it. like what is it suppose to do to the car.?? make it faster?louder?better looking?? if someone can xplain in super lame terms. thanks alot.

i'll take a video 2maro so you guys can give your input.

[phenams]

Okay still haven't got the crx started i think there is something still wrong with the rebuilt carb. Because fuel is getting to the Carb n it is injecting wen u pump the gas but i don't see it deliver gas by itself to keep the car idle. I can keep it on by continuously spraying starting fluid.

Any input on wats happening

N does anybody know of a good Carb rebuilt place in the 909 area its southern California area so i cud get the carb checked at.
Thanks

[redsautorehab]

I know of a great honda shop about an hour from you, and the owner is great at carbs. The shop is Makestar Automotive in Temecula.

Also, rtv stands for room temperature vulcanization, and the majority of automotive silicones are rtv.

[phenams]

@ Puddleskipper thanks yes i try another carb and shes alive now. YES!!!!

@Jdm4drda7 thanks i will.

@ Redsautorehab thanks for the info. i will use that for future problems. n yes now i know what rtv stands for n means.


finally have her running. now have to pay tags n she one the road again...

Question; how old do cars need to be to not have to get smog? because i have a feeling i wont pass. just a feeling im not sure yet.

[phenams]

hello again.
i got my carb rebuilt already found some wheels for my car and some wheel covers. and some mudflaps thanks to DANNY. put it back together and so far this is where im at.
im having a problem now is overheating and the idle still jumpy 2-3k. i took it to get adjusted but it looks like the guy doesnt know wat he is doing cuz it came back worse. do any of you know how to diagnose the overheating problem. as to the idle i check all the vacuum lines and also spray them at each point to see for any idle change and nothing the only time that i get idle change is when i spray closer to the base it sound like the revs go higher. so maybe a seal at the base if so where can i get a new seal. any help ??? please i want this car to be my daily driver!!! so show it off....there are no others that ive seen around my area. so yeah.






also if any of you guys know if these are year model correct??? wheel covers and steelies with honda center cap???

Edited by phenams, 22 August 2012 - 08:29 PM.

[phenams]

rebuilt carb but my idle is still up. bleed the cooling system; turn down the idle screw; check for vac leaks on every little hose = nuthin; spray the base of the carb n the rpms did shoot up so i think that maybe the gasket base plate is old or crack somewhere. took off my carb n it looks new to me??? havent seen another one so i wudnt know if it is or not. someone told me a quick fix is using rtv silicone...BUT.. my question is where do i put this silicone on the top of the base plate under the carb or to just the bottom of the plate to the manifold or both i have it off ryt now so if anyone can let me know asap as this is my work car n i work in like 10hrs so i need input thanks rpr
.

Edited by phenams, 08 September 2012 - 04:13 PM.