62 replies to this topic

[chedda_j]

After having a look at the Panhard mount on my CRX for the last few days while installling my new springs, and having a look at the many photos of broken mounts, I've come to the conclusion that I do not want to spend another $10,000 dollars on my crx if im going to get stuck with a broken mount thats almost unfixable after it breaks. On my car there is a tiny bit of rust right at the fracture point to which where the mount typically breaks, so ive come up with a bolt in, mount support out of aluminum to help prevent the mount from ripping right out. See below for broken mounts.

Below you will see the nut sert aluminum version, it is also offered in a weld in design.

http://www.redpepper...showtopic=52691


This was my first crx

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What happens after it breaks

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Before






Now you might say, well thats only a drawing, well it is only a "drawing". But its currently being bent on my brake. Im going to have a pre-drilled photo on this page tonight. Then on my first day off im going to rip down to my shop and install it for you guys. The hardware is going to be plated 3/8" bolts with lock nuts and plated washers to help spread the load.

This will be something anyone can do with a drill and felt marker. The kit will include the aluminum brace, bolts, washers and lock nuts. I want to do a group buy of 10 at a time so i can offer them to you for the most reasonable price. So if we can do a group buy of 10 then I can let them go for $85 a piece shipped. Save your car and investment.

They will come in a raw aluminum color, or a rubberized for an extra $10.

Go to the vendors section too see whos signed up so far.

Heres the updated aluminum version.

[Old School REX]

Count me in.... The mount on my first crx failed and it didn't even appear to have rust at all... From the outside... now, I will say that if you go installing this into already rusted metal, its probably going to do you no good.... lol

[chedda_j]

Depending on the severity of the rust. But the mount support could only help the situation.

[dwend]

IMO it needs to go higher up on the mount, as close to the main chassis as possible.
Might be a nice addition to the KAKA style brace. This area can never be too stiff.

[chedda_j]

The way I built it will reduce the stress very well. If I was carry the aluminum up the mount to the left on the photo wouldnt provide much more stregth that what I have here. And on the kaka style brace, it bolts on the side of the mount, where mine actually centers the load path over the chassis fram rail. The weight is distributed over a 12" area rather than small radius and weld on the original mount where its welded to the frame rail.

Note that on the brace is about 12" long, and the ones I will have for sale right away here will be about 15" long, for the addition of another bolt.

[firstgencrx]

How do you tighten it? Your original idea in another thread was better with welding it on. I thought that idea was fabulous.

This design can never really be tightened down. The more you tighten the bolts, the more it crushes the paper thin structure it's bolted to.

You would need to drill larger holes, and weld in some sleeves the same width as the under bracing. Then you could tighten everything up.

Again, I think your original idea of welding on a brace was better. The folks here who don't have welders could take a weld-in brace down to a muffler shop and they could weld it in for them. 18 guage mild steel would be fine. Some dimpled holes on the sides would be cool.

My two cents.

[DEIVIONCRX]

And the muffler shop idea is totally valid, muffler shops all over have been welding in sub frame connectors for Muscle cars for years.

[chedda_j]

The bolts them selves would not need to be tightened to the point that would have to squish the metal, they are lock nuts and large washers for a reason. If you look at the struture of the original mount, its only held in with a couple stitch welds. Bolts are actually stronger than welds in this situation, your not creatiing hardly any stress points. The new mount will reduce the amount of stress on the mounts radius entirely. The additon of sleeves would be another nice addition, but for what it is, would be more work that needed.

The original metal is thin you are correct, to weld it wont be difficult, its almost impossible, espeicially after removing the under coating. Also welding is just another way for rust to start, where as the drilling holes will allow you to just paint the inside of the holes with a little every day rust oleum. The original mount, in most of the cars, will be rusted. The brace I built is a more universal fix for nearly almost every crx/civic/integra out there. Id say 1/50 members own a welder them selves. 1/20 have access to a welder, and you pretty much have to have a mig or a tig for this light gauge stuff. Yes a "muffler shop" can weld stuff, but i wouldnt trust a single welding shop to weld strutural material, and no muffler shop would touch that in their right mind for liability reasons, because they arent ticketed welders.

I dont really need to try and prove my products, if people want to question my products, they can build their own, Im just kind of getting sick of being second guessed, Ive always worked with people to make products that work. If my product didnt work, i make them one that does, at my own cost.

Oh and if people are wanting a steel weld on one, they can purchase one for the same price, but will infact be 16 or 18 guage. The drilled holes will be where you weld it, as plug welds are very strong.

[madfaber]

I agree drilling holes in the sub frame where its already kinda weak to put in a brace that you can't tighten down seeems like not the best way to go. The shape seems perfect for a weld brace if it was steel

Edited by madfaber, 20 December 2011 - 09:55 PM.

[chedda_j]

Weld in, no bolts, sure. 60 dollars.

[chedda_j]

Even just fastening it with self tapping sheet metal screws would serve the same purpose as welds. Or even aluminum rivets.

[Old School REX]

I dont really need to try and prove my products, if people want to question my products, they can build their own, Im just kind of getting sick of being second guessed, Ive always worked with people to make products that work. If my product didnt work, i make them one that does, at my own cost.

They aren't second guessing you bro. This is the first I've heard of your design idea for this, they are just trying to constructively help your products appeal to everyone by proving their functional capabilities. Whether they are welded or bolted in, let they buyer decide. I just know I want one of these....

[chedda_j]

I appolgize. I get a little defensive. Like I already said I will offer them in a weld in or bolt in option.

[Condor]

I will probably want a welded one but I have to wait a couple
months to work through some medical bills and such.

[1st gen boy]

They aren't second guessing you bro. This is the first I've heard of your design idea for this, they are just trying to constructively help your products appeal to everyone by proving their functional capabilities. Whether they are welded or bolted in, let they buyer decide. I just know I want one of these....

Sign me up for a steel one. I'll tack it in myself. King Motorsports used to offer a very simular
part also but that was years ago....