Aren, the car looks great and looks like its a blast to drive even with the stock EW lol, can't wait to see some crazy action pics with the beastly d16 thrown in there. I've experienced similar issues with 450lb rear springs coupled with a large rear swaybar, the car rotates nicely but once the back gets loose its very difficult to catch (coming from someone who has spun numerous times when first autoxing my car). After one high speed spin on the track last year without any roll protection I too will be stepping down to 375lb rear springs (a plus for daily driving as well). I'm curious as to how well the 3M tape/RTV seals up the sunroof with the plexiglass panel as I still haven't found a suitable replacement for my sealed up factory sunroof. Did you have this panel installed over the winter? If so did you notice any distortion or shrinkage from the plexiglass in the cold weather that was substantial enough to effect the seal? Jon
Gentlemen,
I have vast autocross experience running these CRX's and have used 450 lbs in the rear with no problems.
First of all, I highly recommend using the "Swift" (progressive rate) coilover springs in the rear... these make a huge difference in handling over Eibach or any top brand coil springs!
Second, you to adjust the rear toe on the torque tube. Yu accomplish this by having a flat set of shims in various thicknesses. With trial & error, a shop that is open to using their alignment (of course with their technician) or another alignment method that will provide you fairly accurate readings and some patience it can be done quite readily.
To adjust the rear toe, you will need to pull of the wheels and brake drums. Next you will need to "loosen", not take off the driver's side drum backing plate using the proper size socket to reach the nuts that hold it to the torque tube that it is attached to. Then you will cut & trim the shim the that you intend to place between the drum backing plate and the mounting point of the torque tube. The shim should be placed at rear most section underneath the drum backing plate. On the passenger side, you do not need to remove the drum in order to shim this side of the torque tube. This can be done br simply loosen the nuts behind the mounting plate on the torque tube and sliding in the proper thickness shim in between the backing plate and the torque tube. Place this shim in the exact same position as the driver's side.
You are looking to set the rear toe at 1/8" to 1/4" of toe-in.... The amount of toe-in needed is dependent upon how much "snap oversteer" that you are trying to dial out. Once you have found that "proper balance" or "sweet spot", all this extra effort will have been well worth the trouble.
Please take note that even though you can also adust the rear camber as well (using the same procedure) don't mess with it! The factory rear camber (-.5 to -.6 degrees) is actually perfect under any racing conditions.
You can also help your rear oversteer problems simply by adjusting the rear tire pressures. In Aren's situation (he's A6 Hoosiers - I have quite a bit of experience with these) you can drop the rear tire pressures down as low as 22 to 24 lbs to help with rear traction. Aren if my eyes aren't deceiving me, it looks as if you are using a taller tire in the rear. If you are, take those off!!! You need to maintain the same ride height and diameter fron to rear. The "taller" tire in the rear will actually transfer more weight to the front (which is already to heavy for the 27.5 mm torsion bars to contend with) and will cause "more" understeer at the front-end.
Ideally a good autox setup for these 1st Gen CRX's is as follows:
Front: 2.5 to 2.0 neg camber / 1/8" toe-out (radials)
1.5 to 1.0 neg camber / 1/4" toe-out (bias ply)
*As much positive caster that can be dialed-in
Rear: 1/8" toe-out (depending on much oversteer you are trying to dial-out)
0" to 1/8" toe-in ( to try to dial-in oversteer) usually this is desied or needed with very sticky full racing slicks w/ a very "soft" compound - to help rotate the car.
Tire Pressures:
Front: 30 to 28 lbs (hot) with Hoosier A6's
26 to 24 lbs (hot) with cantilever road racing slicks
Rear: 24 to 22lbs (warm, you won't get these hot) A6's
*32 to 30lbs (if you trying to rotate the car) A6's
22 to 18lbs (warm) bias ply or cantilever racing slicks
*22 to 18lbs (warm) " " " " " harder compound
Good Luck at the autocrosses.
Luis
9
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thanks!
I'm pushing up on my next oil change that will be at 250K. 
If a Hatch is Bread van, then what is a Wagon? A bread bus?
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