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Whats done to the engine, is I completely striped it down, rebuilt it with new or serviceable parts, no boring, but I did give it a decent hone, new rings, dipped at a machine shop, cleaned up everything, checked the bearings, and they were still good. Re-grounded the valves and seats. I have another set of new bearings I didn't even need to use that I will toss with it. Everything is to spec, so you could say I blueprinted the engine. If you treat it like a normal engine..it should last for another 20 years. If you run the setup I put together...then I'd say a good 4 years of hard racing, a good 7-10 years of street racing, and maybe a good 2 years if you turbo it, it depends on your use you want to do.... All that's left to do is to find a cam and a cam gear to reap the full potential of this motor.
The head was mild ported to match the intake and exhaust, polished for the exhaust, some fresh valves added, new valve guide seals, the guides were mint, and the cam is stock. swapped out a few springs with others that all measured near perfect, but if you plan to do a lot of high rev's...I'd change them out with a new set of better springs for your application. I did not deck the head, but I measured it, and no warps. I installed a cometic multilayered head gasket, but had to cut and trim it to fit, since the gasket was for a different D15, everything lined up except for a few areas...it looked good before the head install, but after the engine idled for a few minutes....everything was still fine...but a few months later when I looked at the engine again, there was a minute puddle of antifreeze at the head gasket area near the distributor. I can't say it leaks or if it was something from when I was playing with the rad and spilt some fluid on it, but I had a boost gauge hooked up to the motor and it was reading better than normal vacuum. Almost too good of vacuum pressure...it was hitting 20 psi, and a normal engine normally runs at 14 psi... maybe because it hasn't been broken in...but it was something that I noticed. I also epoxied a plug on the rear of the engine to delete the PVC canister. I was planning to run a catch can anyway.
I rebuilt the transmission, using stock parts from two different cars, and adding a few extra parts from a rebuild kit I bought. Installed a Phantom Grip LSD that I had about a season of autocross on, no damage or wear noted, and I run ATF instead of motor oil in my transmission. An old hint from a guy that is a heavy Lotus and Austin Healey re-builder. The transmission should shift as new and like butter. no miles on it, and when one of my buddies installed the drive shafts, I think he tore one of the seals, or he either over serviced it...but I know the transmission had a leak. It should be an easy fix since I'm selling the setup removed from the car, so it's accessible if it is the seal.
The flywheel has been lightened by about 15% by a machine shop, and then balanced.
ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate and a cheap autozone clutch disk.
Filled the motor mounts with windshield RTV
Kansai header
Weber 45mm Carbs that I bought from a member here that also bought them from another member here...GTPilot should know the full spec's of these carbs.
a mint TWM manifold for the carb's.
A modded TWM manifold for the carb's.
A mint ITG filter for the carbs.
A Fuel pump and regulator.
A rebuilt Alternator from AutoZone that was last used in 2003 for half a year.
Two new driveshaft's from AutoZone. One used for 6 months.
The parts, and time invested in this rebuild is in the thousands....and considering that I am an A&P mechanic (airframe and powerplant licensed for planes and helicopters) who else would you trust a build from? I grew up in my dads Napa store with a machine shop, so for simple engines to rebuild is second nature for me. Your going to get a real engine that's worth the money.
Price...I'd love to get out of it with what I put into it....but with today's economy, I highly doubt that will happen. Just an engine rebuild will run $700-$1600 and a trany rebuild the same...$700-1200, but I built this for myself, and not for a customer, so I'll put two together and just call it an engine/trans rebuild for $1000. A very fair price for the work alone.
engine/trans $1000
flywheel $150
Clutch $150
mounts $5
header is SOLD
Carbs $400
TWM intake $80
ITG filter $100
Pump and reg $50
Alt $80
Driveshafts $140
waterpump, plugs, belts, hoses...etc....
Total is $2000 if that's the lowest price...Worth over $3000 for the max price
What I would take for any reasonable offer is $2000....but if you have something to trade like parts for a B20B swap into an 87 CRX, parts to boost said motor, turbo's, intercoolers, piping, Hondata S200-300, electromotive DIS...etc.... Or parts I can use on my Datsun260Z. And that is the lowest. When we meet and if I like you, you might get a lot more, like the prior setup I have for the intake with an FMU and Teg injectors, a few more intakes, spare SI header, and a box of distributors and a box of other things that's worth a lot to resale or to use. If I don't like you, then add another $300 for the other spare parts...
Pickup only.
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http://www.redpepper...-1/DSC02143.JPG brake booster delete needed or shorter velocity stacks. And no linkage for the throttle cable.
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Everything is still installed in the car, but it shouldn't take an afternoon in my my heated garage with some beer to remove it.
Buy it...you know you want it,...Taxes are coming soon..and this is perfect for your build.....
Located in Meriden, CT. Which is an hour or so from Boston and NYC if you can drive fast.
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