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Aluminum Radiator Update


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#1
CSPCRX

So air temp was over 100 degrees today. As any of you know temps on the track are higher. Last year I ran in may at the same track at the high only reached 85 deg and the car would overheat 10 min into the 20min session. Today I ran all three 20 min session and never had a cooling issue. Needless to say I am 100% satisfied with the results. Last years event is what started the entire journey of developing a better radiator. I told everyone I would share the results of the track day test. Just so you know my car has a JDM B16A2 which is the 10.4:1 compression ratio motor that makes 170 at the flywheel stock. Only performance modes are intake, header, exhaust and test pipe. On another note I used the override switch that i mounted on the side of the steering wheel column during the cool down lap. It actually cooled the motor below normal temp, Middle of the guage roughly 180 deg. I was not able to get my autometer temp guage installed in time since the sender did not arrive until the day before the race. Hope this helps some decide if this radiator is right for them or live up to the demands.

Victor
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#2
cbstdscott

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QUOTE (CSPCRX @ Sep 13 2008, 05:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
On another note I used the override switch that i mounted on the side of the steering wheel column



Victor,

Nice work with the new radiator, I expect lots of people will be looking into that mod.

Override? What are you over riding?

Scott
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#3
RARECRX

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QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Sep 13 2008, 08:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Victor,

Nice work with the new radiator, I expect lots of people will be looking into that mod.

Override? What are you over riding?

Scott



I would suspect the fan switch, so he can run it manually.. You can't put a price on the cooling system.I hope I can buy 1 one day. I'm bouncing between projects..

#4
CSPCRX

Correct override the fan thermo sensor that is at the bottom of the radiator. I did this for two reasons. If it ever failed I could still easily get the fan to turn on. Also if I wanted to get the car cooler then normal I could like during the cool down laps.

Victor
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#5
rinnaye

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QUOTE (CSPCRX @ Sep 13 2008, 05:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So air temp was over 100 degrees today. As any of you know temps on the track are higher. Last year I ran in may at the same track at the high only reached 85 deg and the car would overheat 10 min into the 20min session. Today I ran all three 20 min session and never had a cooling issue. Needless to say I am 100% satisfied with the results. Last years event is what started the entire journey of developing a better radiator. I told everyone I would share the results of the track day test. Just so you know my car has a JDM B16A2 which is the 10.4:1 compression ratio motor that makes 170 at the flywheel stock. Only performance modes are intake, header, exhaust and test pipe. On another note I used the override switch that i mounted on the side of the steering wheel column during the cool down lap. It actually cooled the motor below normal temp, Middle of the guage roughly 180 deg. I was not able to get my autometer temp guage installed in time since the sender did not arrive until the day before the race. Hope this helps some decide if this radiator is right for them or live up to the demands.


Great results!

I've been waiting for them.

But I keep hearing you mention the "Block Off Plate." Is this plate really necessary? And if I bypass the installation of the Block off plate, will that REALLY affect the cooling ability much?

QUOTE (CSPCRX @ Aug 25 2008, 09:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If you switch from an SI full lenght radiator to this you will also want to make a block off of some type so the air doesnt just go around the radiator.


QUOTE (CSPCRX @ Aug 25 2008, 09:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So far what I did was made a block off plate...

Thanks,

Rene

#6
84b18

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i would guess that a block off plate would not make much of a deference considering my car has been "ok" with a old crappy HF rad and a b18 daily driven, some in az some in cali. i would imagine the all aluminum thicker rad will work much better and probably be plenty sufficient. however i understand the theory of the "block off plate" its affect must be very difficult to determent. i am sure the stolk one was simply designed as a heat barer. i don't plan on making one because i believe it would deplete the volume of air flow threw the condenser. great work victor and thanks for sharing you're info.

trent
Oh, you don't know if it's legal?
you're in california of coarse it's ILLEGAL!!!!!

#7
rinnaye

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QUOTE (84b18 @ Sep 13 2008, 09:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
i would guess that a block off plate would not make much of a deference considering my car has been "ok" with a old crappy HF rad and a b18 daily driven, some in az some in cali. i would imagine the all aluminum thicker rad will work much better and probably be plenty sufficient. however i understand the theory of the "block off plate" its affect must be very difficult to determent. i am sure the stolk one was simply designed as a heat barer. i don't plan on making one because i believe it would deplete the volume of air flow threw the condenser. great work victor and thanks for sharing you're info.

trent
You just brought up another very interesting point.

Since our OEM radiators have a condensor fan that assists the air compressor, so then by installing the new half radiator, do we then lose the cooling efficiency of our air conditioners, by not having the condensor fan that blows when the compressor is on?

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the concept of having this aluminum fan kit in my car, but I'm just doing all of my homework by asking these questions, as they apply to all of my particular concerns.

Maybe a properly constructed "blocking plate" can also double for the air condensor fan mount. Humm!

*May need to research the air conditioned Del Sol setup.*

Thanks.

#8
ATXBoy

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i think it would work if you put the block off plate BEHIND the evaporator and possibly made some slits in it (only right behind the evap fan)to allow the air pushed in from the evap fan to escape, i think that would be optimal smile.gif

#9
CSPCRX

The block off plate insures the air goes through the radiator and not around it. Air flows like water and will take the path of least resisstance. By doing this you make the path through the radiator. Keep in mind. I ran the car on the street without on and had zero problems. But I am building my setup for a car the drivers on the street, at Solo events and track days that are over 100deg. I tend to over engineer instead of taking the its meets the basic needs approach. Im even plan on going further. But ill show that later. Its such a nice feeling to drive hard and not have to worry about water temp every lap. Not just that you sure drive a lot faster when your not focused on the guages. LOL

Victor
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#10
84b18

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QUOTE (rinnaye @ Sep 14 2008, 02:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Maybe a properly constructed "blocking plate" can also double for the air condensor fan mount. Humm!

great idea rene! just make a hole in the middle for the fan, so when the fan is off there is lots of resistance and when it is on you're evap works perfectly.

edit: you would have to worry about the headers cooking the fan tho dry.gif

Edited by 84b18, 14 September 2008 - 01:13 PM.

Oh, you don't know if it's legal?
you're in california of coarse it's ILLEGAL!!!!!

#11
CSPCRX

Heres a picture someone took. It was during our 3rd session when I took my buddy for some laps. Needless to say he had perma smile. LOL

Victor
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#12
84b18

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cool stuff
is that PIR?
Oh, you don't know if it's legal?
you're in california of coarse it's ILLEGAL!!!!!

#13
rinnaye

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QUOTE (84b18 @ Sep 14 2008, 11:11 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
great idea rene! just make a hole in the middle for the fan, so when the fan is off there is lots of resistance and when it is on you're evap works perfectly.

edit: you would have to worry about the headers cooking the fan tho dry.gif


Trent,

You just about had me going for full purchase, until... ^^^


Now if you would be so kind as to help me figure out how to keep the fan from being in the cooker, so I can go back to the purchase thread. biggrin.gif

But seriously, after inspecting the front area of my car, I noticed the condenser fan is hidden behind the radiator, next to the front "grill," and an aluminum heat shield over the exhaust manifold, so if I do the half radiator, and then figure out how to mount a semi breathable medium which will be comparable to the radiator element, made out of a material that is sturdy enough to support the compressor fan, then that should do the trick.

Going Forward:
I wanna say slice my OEM radiator in half, and keep the compresser fan half in place, just for the sake of it all. wink.gif

OR:

Use the blocking plate, and just mount the compresser fan directly onto the engine facing side recessed as far from the heat emitting exhaust manifold as possible.

Your thoughts???

Rene

#14
DEIVIONCRX

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The OEM setup has a pusher fan blowing through the AC Condensor, i would copy that setup. Mount the alum half rad like normal, build a block off plate that funnels air to the new rad, and mount the condensor to the plate with the stock or aftermarket fan on front pushing. And just cut a hole, perforate, loover the block off plate behind the condensor so it gets airflow through it.
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#15
rinnaye

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QUOTE (DEIVIONCRX @ Sep 14 2008, 02:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The OEM setup has a pusher fan blowing through the AC Condensor, i would copy that setup. Mount the alum half rad like normal, build a block off plate that funnels air to the new rad, and mount the condensor to the plate with the stock or aftermarket fan on front pushing. And just cut a hole, perforate, loover the block off plate behind the condensor so it gets airflow through it.
Thanks for this info!

But should I mount the condenser, or the fan to the blocking plate?