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) since I’m starting this thread I’ll be able to add them here. I finally decided this summer to get the Mumford link finished and installed in my race car. I have been dealing with the car handling differently in right turns from left turns for a while now. Unless I lower the rear suspension to where I would really prefer it to be. It’s more consistent both ways when I do that but then I run into another problem…the rear shocks bottom, HARD 
. Had that going on back at Road Atlanta this spring. I think the rear tires were literally bouncing off the ground on the front straight every lap that weekend.Anyway, I know there had been some discussion about this on another thread in the past, which got lost somewhere (actually, I was just too lazy to go look for it) and since I finally did finish this thing I’ll try to cover it here. I do have some pics that I took during the construction of it but I was somewhat inconsistent in doing that. I’ll still try to show you what I have best I can. They’ll never compare to KakaB’s though, I can guarantee you that.
Essentially the bellcranks that I have in the car are the second set I made, the first set I made over a year ago. They’re ugly
and I still question their strength. This set was actually made to go in a friends car but then he started talking about selling it (his car) so I convinced him there wasn’t any point in going to the trouble of putting a Mumford Link in his car. The geometry and shape is the same on both and the following dimensions are what I used to make them. Also the final drawings I used for my installation. Let me say this up front, I know the dimensions I used are not the best in the world. Ideally, the roll center movement should be negligible, as in within about a 0.75” circle. Mine move around a little more than that, not that I didn’t try to come up with a configuration that that would have less movement. Believe me, I worked on it for hours trying different bellcrank angles, lengths, mounting heights, and arm lengths. I could have probably done a bit better but I already had these bellcranks made (or started anyway) and the difference wasn’t much. Besides, my primary focus was to concentrate on minimal R/C height movement. In the end I think I did pretty well, while my thoeretical R/C does move sideways more than I thought it would (about 1.2”), the height moves less than 0.030” in a 2 degree roll! When it’s in a roll and bump situation the vertical movement is less than that. I SERIOUSLY doubt I'll ever be able to feel that small amount of difference! 
These are pics of my actual drawings. The little stuff in the upper corner of #2 is something I used to figure out the axle to linkage clearance. I ended up moving the axle back about 0.3-0.5” to make sure they wouldn’t hit in any configuration. I probably didn’t need to do that since the only time it would hit was when one side was in full bump and the other in droop. With the amount of rear roll stiffness I run this car will NEVER be able to get to that orientation. But I moved it anyway. It’s easy for me to do that with my control arms, the front bushing is a ½” Rod end.
More to come.
Jay
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