2000 replies to this topic

[crazi-85crx]

I had already read your post on eliminating the brake booster and as good as it sounds, I can't get over the fact of removing something that has something to do with my safety when I drive the car, nevermind the fact that I don't feel like having a sore right leg from pounding on the brake pedal all the time.  But on the other hand, thanks for the part number for the 'lude MC, I'm definatly going to go that route.  I'm going to talk to some of my american friends and see if they can send up the MC for me.  About how much do they sell for?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

With how light these cars are, not having a brake booster can't make too much of a difference... atleast that's what I'm counting on. I'm almost finished with my booster delete using the Integra MC.
The Prelude MC (P/N: MC39705) is $118 on www.rockauto.com. So finding a used one would probably be best .

But what's the difference between that and the 7/8" MC for the 86-89 Integra which only costs $57 (P/N: MC39653)?

[onefasthondacrx]

"But what's the difference between that and the 7/8" MC for the Integra which only costs $57 "

what do you mean?

[crazi-85crx]

what do you mean?

They're both 7/8" diameter. But you need to grind the CRX booster a little if using the 'teg MC, I guess. But the 'lude MC goes right in.


Tom & Jerry's postings should be able to help

[onefasthondacrx]

but I thought the 'eg MC didn't fit the crx without modifying it. I thought I had to use the CRX SI booster, with the 'lude MC if I want direct bolt up?

[toxicshit]

but I thought the 'eg MC didn't fit the crx without modifying it. I thought I had to use the CRX SI booster, with the 'lude MC if I want direct bolt up?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

you can do a search and read.. all the info is correct in the post from tom and jerry. and you can start your own topic about it.. but there are 100 other posts about it. but now your going verry offtopic in the nice build topic from the Kakabox !

http://www.redpepper...8&hl=integra mc

that topic has all the info read it .. think about it and do it

[kakabox]

They're both 7/8" diameter. But you need to grind the CRX booster a little if using the 'teg MC, I guess. But the 'lude MC goes right in.
Tom & Jerry's postings should be able to help

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

...or confuse!

1. The '86-'89 USDM Integra MC will not directly fit the 1/3g booster. The 'bolt pattern' for attachment to the booster is the same, but, the male portion of the MC that goes into the booster has too large of OD and must be machined, filed, sanded, chewed...whatever to fit.

2. The MC from a "1985 Honda Prelude 1.8L 1829cc L4 2x1BBL [ET2]" is a DIRECT fit to the 1/3g booster...no modification required. It bolts right in. You don't have to modify a thing. Did I mention it bolts right in w/o modification? It has the same size piston diameter (7/8") as the Integra MC which donated the brakes for your swap and along w/the 'teg prop valve, will give you approximately the same pedal travel and feel as 'teg (the 'teg booster is larger and may give a little more assistance than the 1/3g booster). Did I mention you have to use the 'teg's proportioning valve w/this combo? You do if you want the rear 'teg disc brakes to function properly.

3. For a dd you may want to retain the oem booster for comfort and ease.

I believe I've already covered all the above issues in my build thread (BTW, the NA booster post includes a link to another thread relating to booster delete and leg effort, or lack of). Please re-read them for detail.

Cheers!

[jsgprod]

Yes...like enlarging the hole for a 'teg mc!  As long as the you keep the enlarged hole somewhat centered I don't see a problem w/that.

So, there's another option for the 'teg disc brake swap: make a NA booster and enlarge the hole for the 'teg mc!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I know this is probably a little late for this post but, believe me here, you DON"T want to do that.

Been there; done it; and imediately took it back out !
The required pedal effort to stop the car is huge, to the point of being scary!

The only way I'd run a larger MC (7/8" over the 13/16") again is if I WAS going to use the booster.

Just my .02

Jay

[kakabox]

I know this is probably a little late for this post but, believe me here, you DON"T want to do that.

Been there; done it; and imediately took it back out  !
The required pedal effort to stop the car is huge, to the point of being scary!

The only way I'd run a larger MC (7/8" over the 13/16") again is if I WAS going to use the booster.

Just my .02

Jay

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Jay,
I think you may be confused...I NEVER advocated using a MC w/a piston diameter larger than the 'teg's (for the 'teg brake swap).

All I was trying to say is that the 'teg MC (7/8" piston) can fit in the 'booster plate'...the part I made from the oem booster to fit on the firewall to allow the MC to bolt up to it...this piece:


So, if you choose to go 'boosterless' w/the 'teg brake swap, you could use the 'teg MC because it will fit in the plate. I never made any mention of using any MC w/a larger piston diameter than the 'teg's.

[onefasthondacrx]

well, i'm going to just order a prelude MC from the U.S. and run it off the SI booster, along with the proportioning valve off the teg like you guys said. Thanks for all your help, and sorry for beign so confused. By the way, how do you add a picture under your name in the forums?

[toxicshit]

kakabox i've send you a PM with some camber plate info

[phatboycrxhf]

sounds like alot of your having with this car and man i want to try that na brake booster but i think i should get it running first every time i check out this project page i wanna go out side and rip my car apart if you keep doing all this cool stuff ill never finish my car oh and one more thing might sound dumb but whatever could someone use the front stablizer bar from a honda for a rear swaybar with some moding i was looking at the my hatchie and thought it might work but just thought id ask since you most likely no peace and cant wait to see more


cya mitch

[kakabox]

...could someone use the front stablizer bar from a honda for a rear swaybar with some moding ...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes. I believe rpr (iirc) did that exact thing, but used a 1g 'teg front bar.

[warder]

Posted Today, 01:47 AM
  sounds like alot of your having with this car and man i want to try that na brake booster but i think i should get it running first every time i check out this project page i wanna go out side and rip my car apart  if you keep doing all this cool stuff ill never finish my car laugh.gif oh and one more thing might sound dumb but whatever could someone use the front stablizer bar from a honda for a rear swaybar with some moding i was looking at the my hatchie and thought it might work but just thought id ask since you most likely no peace and cant wait to see more

Man I completly agree. My car isnt nearly ready to do much tinkering with but I've already thought about doing the NA Booster thing! I also saw some of those Miata wheels on Ebay, they were looking pretty sharp. Kakabox you're doing such a good job on this build. Its really helpful information too. Once my car is running and in my possession I feel like Im more prepared after reading this topic. Its good reading, hope your car turns out awesome... and like 50lbs.


I noticed your subtitle KAKAbox... 9 days til what?

Edited by warder, 11 August 2006 - 10:16 AM.

[kakabox]

Its good reading, hope your car turns out awesome... and like 50lbs. 
I noticed your subtitle KAKAbox... 9 days til what?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks...the KAKABOX should be light, but it probably won't be the lightest 3g on rpr. I do have some performance/design/style compromises which have weight penalties associated w/them:
1. 'teg rear disc (vs. lighter alum drums)
2. solid rear stabar (vs. hollow)
3. oem rear hatch w/glass (vs. drilled out hatch structure w/lexan)
4. D16A1 motor (+ ~100 lbs. compared to oem Si motor)
5. roll up oem door glass (vs. NO roll up windows)
6. oem Si non-aluminum radiator (vs. half length, aluminum delSol/HF rad)
7. oem door structure (vs. hole-sawed or cut out)

...the list just gives me something to work on in the future! These cars are never really done!

Nine days 'till VACATION!

[Richard]

you going anywhere? or staying home and building your car for all of our enjoyment