2000 replies to this topic

[jjamiemmark]

lookin good the best part is puttin it back together

[lxndr]

Thanks KAKABOX!

I can't wait to get mine painted and installed!

[cburnscrx]

This is just the business side/logic coming out of me. You should make these and sell them. I am sure some people who buy Tom's batteries for their CRX's would be very interested. I know I would. Just an idea.

[crazi-85crx]

This is just the business side/logic coming out of me. You should make these and sell them. I am sure some people who buy Tom's batteries for their CRX's would be very interested. I know I would. Just an idea.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You mean Marcus' batteries.

[kakabox]

This is just the business side/logic coming out of me. You should make these and sell them. I am sure some people who buy Tom's batteries for their CRX's would be very interested. I know I would. Just an idea.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It's a great idea...however, my time is worth more than I figure people would pay for a battery tray, custom or not.

I don't think people would want to pay more for the tray than for the battery!

Cheers!

[cburnscrx]

Dooh, yes, I did mean to say Marcus. Sorry bout that one. That's why people who are half asleep shouldn't be allowed on the internet.

Okay, you're probably right, it might take more time to produce them than it's worth. Just an idea. Keep up the awesome work, you are an inspiration to me if not most of us here!

[strudel]

Easy solution is to use the oem and just cut it narrower as required. My normal battery is 5x9 across the top and 8" high. My mini style similar to what is shown here is 3x7 across the top and 5" high. So as stated the new unit although well made and functional is heavier than the oem. So just strap the weenie battery down and be done with it.

That is only if you are disfunctional and can't magically fabricate all the good stuff by yourself. Pretty the new style will be! JS

[kakabox]

Easy solution is to use the oem and just cut it narrower as required. My normal battery is 5x9 across the top and 8" high. My mini style similar to what is shown here is 3x7 across the top and 5" high. So as stated the new unit although well made and functional is heavier than the oem. So just strap the weenie battery down and be done with it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sure...you could probably do that, but lxndr and I couldn't come up w/a tie down soln using the oem tray that we were satisfied with. Perhaps we were being too anal...

Also, I wanted a very secure battery mount as that's the first thing the techs check at an ax or hpde event. I didn't want to "just strap the weenie battery down and be done with it". A 10 oz. diff in wt isn't much of a penalty for a secure, robust mount!

I'm not clear strudel, are you saying you've actually modified the oem tray for a mini-me battery, just straping it down on a narrowed oem tray? That's cool...maybe you can you post some pics of your soln? Thanks.

Cheers!

[strudel]

I have not actually modified the tray. When I got my car it had a Mini battery in the rear but I didn't think it would pass inspection the way it was done and for our climate I neaded a REAL battery so I got a narrow style and put it back in the std location.

Just from an "amount of work" point of view was the slant of my comment. I think from your aspect you are totally correct in what you designed.

Here is a size comparison for those that are not familiar with a Weenie battery.


This is how it would look with the battery in a central position. You can see the space on either side.


This is shifted to the rear and leaves the extra room up front.


This is shifted to the front and excess room at the rear.


I think that if one used your tie down strap idea and connected it to the oem tray it would work just fine. You could also possibly modify the oem tray by cutting off the rear or front and just bending the material up 90 degrees to hold the battery from sliding front to rear. Or just screw in an aluminum block on each side to solve the sliding issue and a tie down gizmo of some sort. Even the oem tie down may work with a bit of modification.

Just some alternative thoughts. JS

[badpenny]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ummm, why didn't you go with a cup holder design? You could have lowered the battery into the engine bay another inch for maximum clearance of the hood plus added the quick connects for the battery that way. Does SCCA rules state that it has to be fastened down?

[kakabox]

I think that if one used your tie down strap idea and connected it to the oem tray it would work just fine. You could also possibly modify the oem tray by cutting off the rear or front and just bending the material up 90 degrees to hold the battery from sliding front to rear. Or just screw in an aluminum block on each side to solve the sliding issue and a tie down gizmo of some sort. Even the oem tie down may work with a bit of modification.

Just some alternative thoughts. JS

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks strudel...but in your previous post it sounded like you had ACTUALLY MADE a hold down for the oem tray, guess I misunderstood you.

Yes, lxndr and I literally spent several hours positioning the battery in the tray exactly as you show, pondering over the same various mounting options you mentioned. We also kicked around the cut and bend up the sheet metal for flange idea...the alum spacer block idea we didn't think of, however.

If you look closer at the configuration of the tray, esp the underside, you might find that actually executing your ideas successfully may prove harder than it first appears. That's the conclusion 'xndr & I arrived at. However, I'm sure it could be done.

We wanted to reduce the overall size of the tray to the "footprint" of the mini-me. In the end we couldn't come up w/a clean looking soln using the oem tray. We ultimately wanted a very secure and some what factory looking installation, not some strap it down and be done w/it tray that looked like ass. Hence, the custom tray. Yeah, some peeps might call us anal...I like to think we have high standards!

Hey, since you have a mini-me battery and an oem tray, you should fabricate the "alternative" tray and post the how to! That'd be cool!

Cheers!

Edited by kakabox, 25 June 2006 - 04:50 PM.

[kakabox]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ummm, why didn't you go with a cup holder design? You could have lowered the battery into the engine bay another inch for maximum clearance of the hood plus added the quick connects for the battery that way. Does SCCA rules state that it has to be fastened down?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

In a way, the custom tray is a cup holder design...it just sits on top of the frame rail.

Lowering the the battery down in the eng bay is a cool idea...not having the tranny in place I not sure how far I could go. Custom cables might be required for the lowered battery too. Lower CG...it's a good idea. I might explore that idea once I get the drivetrain in. BTW, there's no issues w/hood clearance w/the mini-me battery, not even close!

I don't know the actual SCCA rules. I don't, nor intend to, do any SCCA events. Common sense and all the club driving events I've ever been to require the battery to be fastened down.

Edited by kakabox, 26 June 2006 - 02:47 PM.

[strudel]

Hey, since you have a mini-me battery and an oem tray, you should fabricate the "alternative" tray and post the how to! That'd be cool!

Actually I don't plan to change anything at the moment. As I said, for our climate the mini battery won't have the cranking amps in the winter I suspect. I never really checked what it has yet but I'm not taking a chance if I drive in the cold weather.

I do realize the angle piece issue underneath. I think your idea is great. I have no problem with it. I just thought for those who don't have your fabricating skill it might be an easy and quick remedy. JS

[phatboycrxhf]

man that thing is nice and i just made one of those holders about a week ago doesnt looklike that though i made mine out of angle iron and mounted it to the rear frame in the back of the car but now i have to make another because the battery i used to make the battery tie down is bigger figures huh i thought they were the same oh well at least i have more to weld

[kakabox]

NA Brake Booster

After reading about the built-in deflection (mush) that the oem booster has in it from this thread: http://www.redpepper...e...st&p=268966 ...I decided to follow jsgprod's advice and gut the stock booster. Making it essentially a Naturally Aspirated booster ...by taking out the diaphragm it will no longer see manifold vacuum and by replacing the internal rubber cushions with solid ones, it should provide a firm brake pedal. Doing that basically turns the booster into a large 'spacer' to housing the mc pushrod!

The firmer pedal should help w/feel and brake modulation...it should also reduce pedal travel to help w/heel-toeing, and from what the Competition guys were saying in the above post, I'll probably not miss the lack of boost.

Here how I did it:
First take off the e-clips from the studs on the front housing. Then carefully pry the rear housing from the front:


...remove the snap rings and release the spring retainer and booster spring (be careful, the spring is loading the retainer):


After the retainer and spring are removed, remove the mc output rod retainer and output rod and...what's this? It looks like a source of a mushy pedal!


...a ~.25 thick soft rubber disc about 1" in diameter smack dab in the line of force:


I needed something solid, something that won't deflect...and it has to fit the "cylinder" of the booster plate. I also wanted to preserve the overall length of the mc actuator rod, so, the disc had to be approximately the same thickness as the rubber disc. I found a stack of four quarter was just about perfect...the same approx diameter and height...so I invested a $1 in the NA booster!


...a stack of ~1" diameter washers would work also.

The new solid disc(s) in place:


...and the mc output rod fits back in the same position as before:


So, that source of mush is gone...continued...

Edited by kakabox, 12 January 2009 - 12:30 AM.