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RTM |
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28th March 2010 - 07:49 PM
Last post by: kaymo |
Hello,
I have recently seen more and more questions about putting a 88+ model D-series into a 1G/3G, so I decide to share how I did mine. Please remeber that this should only be used as a guide. These are the things that I have done. You may or may not agree with my methods, it is your choice to do as I did or use this to figure out a better way for yourself. Also I am a very bad speller so if I misspell anything forgive me.
This post is going to cover how I put a D15B7 into my 84 CRX. All other D-series engines will be similar.
First lets look as some of the things we will need and things that will need to be done.
1. Convert from carb to fuel injection. To do this we will need a fuel tank from a SI as well as the main fuel line from a SI and a fuel pump.
2. Axles. The 1G axles will not fit properly in the D tranny, and the D axles will not fit in the 1G hubs. You will need the D axles and the outer cv joints of the 1G.
3. Mounts. There is no aftermatket kit for putting d-series engines in a 1G so you going to have to make custom ones. You will need all the mount from the d-series and the 1G to mix and match.
4. Shift linkage and stablizer bar. Get the ones for the d-series.
5. Clutch. the 1G has a cable clutch while the D-series is hydrolic. You will be making an adapter.
6. Wiring. Lots of wiring to do lots of choices to make on how to do it. At a minnuim you will need a MPFI engine harness and the correct ECU for your engine.
Okay so lets get started by cleaning out the engine bay. Get that old engine, tranny, radiator, all the electrical stuff, vacuum and fuel lines all out of the way. Go ahead and drop the fuel tank and remove the main line from the car (Keep the main line and the vent line for later use). If you want to replace any stering or suspension compents now would be a good time, also do any brake work that may be needed.
1. Fuel. First lets mount the fuel pump, Just in front of the drivers side wheel there should be some thread holes already there that is where the pump needs to go so bolt it up. With the pump on lets get the tank up. It is difficult to put the lines on and the nozzle all while hold the tank up, but it will go just keep at it. Make sure you get the straps nice and tight. Install the SI main line and attach it to the pump. Leave the end in the engine unhooked until after the engine is in. So skip to the next thing and come back to when the engine is in. Okay so your almost done the engine is in and everything is hooked all you need is fuel and wiring right. Unhooke the filter for the its mount if not already done. Weld the mount onto the firewall, it fits real nice just below the return and vent lines. Put the filter in its mounts and attach the lines now you have fuel.
2. Axles. Take the d-series shafts and remove the outer cv joints. Put the outer cv joints from the 1G onto the d-series shafts. The new modified shafts will now fit in the tranny and fit in the wheel hubs.
3. Mounts. I found it was easiest to have the engine suspend on a chain and using jacks as need to position the engine. Lift the engine into the bay and lower it enough to fit the axles into the tranny and the wheels. Put the hub nuts onto the shafts tight enough to hold them in place.
Notice how the front engine mount is close to fitting into the orginial location. That's where its going to go. Cut a small peice of 1/4" metal and drill 2 hole that line up with the 1G mounts holes. Place the shim in between the block and the mount and bolt it down. Connect the rubber mount the the stock frame mount.
Don't tighten the bolts all the way you will need the slack to position the other mounts.
Next lets do the top tranny mount. Positon the engine so that the axles are straight and the engine is level, also check to make sure that the engine is not sitting too high or too low. Use one or more jacks to abtain the correct position. Once you are happy with the position bolt the mount onto the tranny. You can easily see where the new frame mount wil need to be welded, so make your markes on the frame and remove the engine.
Weld in the custom frame mount, and lower the engine back in place. It may be nessacary to remove the mount from the tranny so it can be put in place easier and the reconnect it once the engine is in. bolt up the mount and check the position of the engine still good? great.
Next is the rear Tranny mount and it can be a pain. Take the 1G mount that bolted to the crossmember off and cut thru the rubber and remove the top section.
Get the tranny mount from the D-series and cut the end of a little and do a bit of grinding. Take the top front engine mount from the D-series and grind the metal spacer in between the mount until you can fit it inside of the rear mount. It is hard to get in but just keep hammering it and grinding on it till it fits. Once its in drill whole in the rear mount so that a bolt can be inserted. Now take the lower part of the 1G mount that we cut and get under the car. See the 2 holes where it bolted to the cross member, on the rear side of the corssmember you should be able to see a hole in between the 2 orignials, put the mount on and slide it over to the passenger side until it lines up with that hole, now drill out the other side and the other hole. Bolt it to the crossmember. With the engine in test fit the tranny mount you will probally need to do more grinding and a little hammering on the firewall to get it to fit without hitting the body but it will fit. Once it fits tighen all the other mounting bolts and see how much space is between the 2mounts fill this space with 1/4 shims. when you have the number of shims you need weld them all toghter. test fit the mount again and marked where the holes need to be to bolt the mount to the frame mount.
Now pull all the mounts on last time and fill them with 3M window weld or a similair product.
4. shift links. This one is easy just take the D-series linkage and stablizar bar bolt the to the shifter, their to long, so cut them bolt each end of both bars up and marke where they need to be welded at. When making your mark on the shifter make sure the tranny is in neutral and have someone hold the shifter in a neutral position also.
5. Clutch. Fabricate an adapter similar to the one in the pics. Their is a way to convert the 1G to use the Hydro but I don't know the specfics about what needs to be done.
6.Electrical. You will at least need a MPFI engine harness and the proper ECU for engine. I swapped the entire car harness which made most of the wiring easy, but then I to make room for new guage cluster and turn signal switch.
That's everything I can think of. I'm sure theres lots of small stuff I forget, but at least this may help get some ideas going .
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Rampage |
2,309 |
13th March 2010 - 02:26 PM
Last post by: rinnaye |
This information is most useful to people who want to swap in a VSS for a Blacktop D16 Swap.
If you want to keep your original cluster its up to you to find the right combination of speedo heads and VSS switches. 1G/3G's did not come with a VSS in the CDM market. Someone with the specific USDM information should leave a link here if you want the OE cluster solution. I've tried to adapt a VSS to a CDM cluster and it will not work. The VSS switch is only part of the problem, the Drums appear to be different from VSS to non-VSS clusters, in that the VSS drum had the four-point magnet to switch the reed switch, and the non-VSS has a dummy drum. To tell which you have, the VSS drum is round with a flat or curved washer on the end, where the non-VSS is just a round drum.
The reason for this swap for me was to get a working VSS cluster in my CDM 3G Civic for a D16 Blacktop swap with fully electronic ignition. This swap gives you a gauge cluster with a working VSS, no need to open the unit unless you are correcting mileage.
The dash needs to be slightly cut to relocate the speedometer on the Civic, probably similar on the CRX. You'll need the small connector from the EF Cluster because it has two more pins.*** an interesting note about this swap ***
My CDM 1G/3G's all have Denso clusters, with no VSS.
The CDM 2G/4G's have Senkei clusters, all with VSS.
Is this the fundamental difference between Denso and Senkei? The VSS?
Moving on...
This EF Cluster came from a 90-91 Civic, and is larger with the larger cluster hood. The 88-89 is much shorter and probably would not fit cleanly in the 1G/3G cluster hood. This swap relies on keeping the cluster stationary with nothing more than a shop rag and the pressure of the cluster hood. You have to cut out the old cluster mounts to make room for this cluster. I don't have a picture, just cut to fit.
I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to make all the modifications to the dash. Without it cutting the dash would have been a lot more sloppy.
First, Note the difference in the location of the Speedometer cable to speedo head:
A dremel will make short work of that piece of dashboard:
Newly Positioned Speedo Cable:
At this point all you need to do is re-pin the connectors and you're done!
Below is the small connector (8-pin) wired up to work with the EF Cluster.
Remember, this is an EF plug!Black: Ground
Yellow/Red: VSS
Green/Black: Trunk
Blue/Yellow: Belt
Yellow/White: Fuel Guage
Yellow: IG1+ 12V
Green/Yellow: Right Signal Indicator
Next is the large connector (12-pin) Again, position your wires this way.
Both clusters use the same 12-pin connector hereGreen/Blue: Left Signal Indicator
Red/Blue: High Beam Indicator
Yellow/Green: Coolant Temperature Gauge
Red/Black: Illumination
Red: Illumination
Green/Red: Brake Warning Light
Yellow/Red: Oil Pressure Warning Light
Green/Orange: Check Engine Light
Black/Yellow: Battery Light
White/Blue: Battery Light
Blue: Tach
And a couple of shots with the shop rag. Its just there to hold the cluster tight against the dash and cluster hood so it doesn't flop around.
And finally a few installed:
There are two very small gaps on the very outside edge of the cluster. Well its not perfect but its exactly what the computer wants. I was thinking of making some sort of plastic plate for the ends to hide it completely but I can live with it for now.
So I hope this helps anyone that wants to swap in a newer cluster that has a VSS already inside and will fit the cluster hood almost flawlessly, to easily get a VSS signal to the computer.
Cheers,
Mark
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codyz0r |
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3rd February 2010 - 06:43 AM
Last post by: badpenny |
To find something specific, type CTRL+F and use the "Find" function for quicker answers. Please PM me if you would like to add or edit this page.
ALL TORQUE SPECS ARE IN FT-LB.
Just a little FYI 1 FT/LB equals 12 IN/LB, so if you want to use a beam type wrench which are almost all IN/LBS take your FT/LBS and multiply by twelve to get IN/LBS. This is good to know because for any bolt requiring 20 ft/lbs or below, you should convert to in/lb because it's a little more accurate. Also when tightening bolts that you absolutely, positively do not want to break such as cam cap bolts whether its for B or D series, you should use a beam type torque wrench with IN/LBS and NOT a clicker type torque wrench which are usually FT/LBS.
B Series Torque SpecsKey-
Teg=Integra
Anything that does not say "(all B series)" next to it can only be guaranteed for B series Integra only.
CYLINDER HEAD BOLT TORQUE SPECS (tightening) / (loosening)8, 4, 2, 6, 10 <---intake order 3, 7, 9, 5, 1
7, 3, 1, 5, 9 <---exhaust order 4, 8, 10, 6, 2
Torque in steps: 22ft-lbs (264in-lbs), Then to 63ft-lbs (756in-lbs) (final spec) 94+ Teg
Torque in steps: 22ft-lbs (264in-lbs), Then to 61ft-lbs (732in-lbs)(final spec) 90-93 Teg / B16's
CAMSHAFT COVER SPECS13, 9, 5, 1, 3, 7, 11 (side of cam cover closest to intake)
14, 10, 6, 2, 4, 8, 12 (side of cam cover closest to exhaust)
Shown above is one cam cover, sequence is the same for intake and exhaust cam cover.
#1-10 20ft-lbs (240in-lbs) #11-14 7.2ft-lbs (86in-lbs) (94+ B18C specs)
#1-10 16ft-lbs (192in-lbs) #11-14 8ft-lbs (96in-lbs) (B16A specs)
**not sure what the specs are for non-VTEC motors, sorry**
Seat each camshaft by pushing it towards the dizzy side of cylinder head.
VALVE COVER SPECS7______________5______(Intake side of valve cover)
_____3____1____
_____4____2____
8______________6______(Exhaust side of valve cover)
7.2 ft-lbs (86in-lbs) (all B series)
FLYWHEEL TORQUE SPECS_______1
_____6___8
___4_______3
_____7___5
_______2
Torque in steps: 19ft-lbs (228in-lbs), 38ft-lbs (456in-lbs), 57ft-lbs (684in-lbs), Then to 76ft-lbs (912in-lbs) (all B series)
PRESSURE PLATE TORQUE SPECS_______1
_____6___3
_____4___5
_______2
Torque in steps: 5ft-lbs (60in-lbs), 10ft-lbs (120in-lbs), 14ft-lbs (168in-lbs), Then to 19ft-lbs (228in-lbs) (all B series)
FUEL FILTER BANJO BOLT25ft-lbs (300in-lbs) (94+ Teg specs)
16ft-lbs (192in-lbs) (90-93 Teg / B16 / 89-91 Civic CRX specs)
FUEL FILTER SERVICE BOLT11ft-lbs (132in-lbs) (94+ GSR specs)
9ft-lbs (108in-lbs) (90-93 Teg / B16 / 89-91 Civic CRX specs)
HEADER A-PIPE TO B PIPE (x3)40ft-lbs (480in-lbs) (all B series)
B PIPE TO CAT (x2)12ft-lbs (144in-lbs) (all B series)
SHIFT LINKAGE EXTENSION ROD TO TRANNY BOLT (8x1.25mm)16ft-lbs (192in-lbs) (90+ Teg specs)
12ft-lbs (144in-lbs) (B16 specs)
SPEED SENSOR TO TRANNY BOLT9ft-lbs (108in-lbs)
ALTERNATOR TOP BOLT17ft-lbs (204in-lbs) (all B series)
ALTERNATOR BOTTOM BOLT33ft-lbs (396in-lbs) (all B series)
CRANKPULLEY BOLT130ft-lbs (1560in-lbs) (90+ Teg)
If the crankpulley bolt is new:
145ft-lbs (1740in-lbs) loosen it a little, then re-tighten to 130ft-lbs (final spec)
87ft-lbs (1044in-lbs) (B16A, first gen)
**not sure what torque is for B16A2 and B16A3's**
TIMING BELT TENSIONER40ft-lbs (480in-lbs) (all B series)
DRIVER SIDE BRACKET TO BLOCK (x3)40ft-lbs (480in-lbs) (all B series)
DRIVERS SIDE BRACKET STUD & BOLT54ft-lbs (648in-lbs) (all B series)
DRIVER SIDE ENGINE TO CHASSIS MOUNT BOLT40ft-lbs (480in-lbs) (all B series)
TRANNY MOUNT TO TRANNY BOLTS (x3)54ft-lbs (648in-lbs) (all B series)
TRANNY MOUNT TO CHASSIS BOLT40ft-lbs (480in-lbs) (all B series)
REAR ENGINE BRACKET TO TRANNY BOLTS (x3)43ft-lbs (516in-lbs) (1 passenger side) 86.8ft-lbs (1041in-lbs) (2 driver side) (94+ Teg specs)
43ft-lbs (516in-lbs) (90-93 Teg / B16 specs)
REAR ENGINE BRACKET TO MOUNT BOLT43ft-lbs (516in-lbs) (all B series)
REAR MOUNT TO REAR SUBFRAME BOLTS (x3)43ft-lbs (516in-lbs) (all B series)
TRANNY TO BLOCK BOLTS (x5)47ft-lbs (564in-lbs) (all B series)
LONG AND SHORT STARTER BOLTS33ft-lbs (396in-lbs) (all B series)
CLUTCH COVER LOWER BOLTS (8mm)17ft-lbs (204in-lbs) (all B series)
CLUTCH COVER UPPER BOLTS (6mm)9ft-lbs (108in-lbs) (all B series)
INTERMEDIATE SHAFT TO BLOCK BOLTS (x3)28ft-lbs (336in-lbs) (all B series)
FRONT AND REAR STIFFENER TO TRANNY BOLT42ft-lbs (504in-lbs) (all B series)
FRONT AND REAR STIFFENER VERTICAL BOLTS17ft-lbs (204in-lbs) (all B series)
INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS17ft-lbs (204in-lbs) (all B series)
EXHAUST MANIFOLD BOLTS23ft-lbs (276in-lbs) (all B series)
BALL JOINT CASTLE NUT40ft-lbs (480in-lbs)
LCA TO DAMPER FORK LOWER NUT47ft-lbs (564in-lbs)
DAMPER FORK UPPER BOLT32ft-lbs (384in-lbs)
32mm AXLE SPINDLE NUT134ft-lbs (1608in-lbs)
OIL DRAIN PLUG33ft-lbs (396in-lbs) (all B series)
TRANNY FILL PLUG33ft-lbs (396in-lbs) (all B series)
TRANNY DRAIN PLUG29ft-lbs (348in-lbs) (all B series)
SPARK PLUGS20ft-lbs (240in-lbs)
D Series Torque SpecsAuto Tranny Drain plug.........................29
Manual Tranny Drain and fill plug..........30-40
Wheel Lug Nuts....................................80
Fuel Filter
Banjo Bolt............................................16
Service Bolt.........................................9
Clamp Bolt...........................................9
Valve cover Bolts...................................7
Spark Plugs..........................................13
Cam Gear Bolt.......................................27
Cam cover crown nuts.............................7
Crank(vibration) damper bolt.................119
Cylinder Head Studs....................1st step..22...2nd..49
Flywheel Bolts M/T................................76
Drive Plate bolts for A/T........................54
Header Bolts to Cylinder Head................22
Header to downpipe bolts.......................33
Intake Manifold Bolts..............................16
Oil Pan bolts...........................................9
Oil pick up tube bolts..............................17
Oil Pump to engine block bolts/nuts...........9
Oil Pump Screen bolts..............................8
Oil pump cover Screws.............................5
Oil filter Housing Bolts..............................9
Rocker arm shaft pedestal bolts................16
Rocker arm shaft end caps bolts................9
Timing belt adjustment bolt.........................31
Rod Bolts.................................................23
Main Bearings cap bolts
Separate caps and bridge..........................48
One piece cap assembly............................33
Water pump pulley bolts.............................9
Thermostat housing bolts............................9
Water pump attaching bolts.........................9
Fuel injection service bolts
88-90.......................................................9
91up.........................................................11
Throttle Body nuts.....................................16
Fuel Rail nut..............................................9
Manual Transmission
Countershaft locknuts................................65
End cover bolts.........................................9
Selector arm holder bolts...........................9
Tranny case to Flywhee housing..................20
Tranny to engine bolts
4 speed.....................................................33
5 speed.....................................................50
Clutch pressure plate bolts...........................19
Release fork bolts........................................22
Driveaxle/hub nuts.......................................134
Brake hose to caliper banjo bolts (front/Rear)..25
Master Cylinder Mounting nuts.......................11
Brake Booster mounting nuts.........................9
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rextec |
7,686 |
26th August 2009 - 03:03 PM
Last post by: 87civDX |
Here is the install write-up for any d-series 88-95 (96+ will not work i've been told) into 1st gen crx's or 3rd gen civics (I will not cover carb. to fi swap so this is for si's basically). I wrote notes by all of the parts that need to be modified explaining what to do to them. There are also a few other install notes towards the bottom of unexpected snags and there solutions. Thanks to r4adkshn on this board for pioneering this technique and helping me out. Enjoy
Parts needed:
86-89 integra
-transmission (four out of five bolts line up on the 88-95 blocks, even the dowels line up. You will have to tap ((12x1.25)) the starter hole that normally goes through the tranny into the block because the hole is not lined up with the one on the block)
-front tranny mount
-clutch
-flywheel
-shift linkage
-Starter (drill out the left mounting hole (when looking at the back of the starter) to accommodate the larger 12x1.25 bolt)
-pressure plate
-intermediate shaft (the two bottom holes will line up with the area on the block which you must tap ((10x1.25)) the top hole will NOT. You can cut and weld it so it does line up. Make sure you align the shaft while the tranny is on the motor so you can get the angle PERFECT.)
-axels
-knuckles and/or hubs
-engine wiring harness (to harvest plugs off of, an 88-2000 mpfi engine harness will also work)
-exhaust manifold ((the angle will be off if you use an 88-95 exh. Mani. You could modify it to work though.)
88-95 civic
-any d-series motor (the d16a6 has the holes for the intermediate shaft already drilled and tapped, for the other motors you will have to drill ((it will tell you what size of drill bit to use on the tap package)) and tap ((10x1.25)) the holes yourself.)
84-87 crx/civic
-front engine mount (you must drag one of the two holes on the right of the mount, also you have to cut the mount in order to weld the mount again to get the far left hole to line up with the one in the block)
-rear tranny mount and bracket (the two bottom holes will bolt on but not the top one)
-bottom radiator hose
-original si harness
94-2001 integra
-upper radiator hose (cut to fit)
snags and solutions:
#1-alternator bracket will hit the master cylinder. Trim the bracket to give it clearance, also factor in the rocking of the motor�.give it room. Don't cut into the slotted adjustment area.
#2- the stock fan wont fit. Get a slim fan.
Wiring:
This is the fun part :insert sarcasm:!!!! What I did was used a donor engine harness for plugs to sensors that aren't found on the si harness. sensors which you will have to add are VSS (search on here for vss info, its a subject all on its own), ELD (get this out of the under hood fuse box of any 88-91 civic,crx. its a small black box with a 3 wire plug going to it), EVAP purge (crx has one but its in the emissions box). you can cut off and tape up the wires that lead into the emissions control box, they are of no use now. I suggest modifying the harness while the new motor is in the car this way you can see which wires need to be extended. after i figured out which plugs i needed to add i ran the wires up to where the 2 main plugs on the engine harness are located, i then bought male and female 9 pin connectors from radio shack to accommodate the new wiring running from the ecu to the engine bay. I modified my wiring harness to complete obd-0 electronic advance mpfi (88-91 crx ). After doing this I used an aftermarket obd-0 to obd-1 conversion harness to run my p28 ecu (I swapped in a d16z6). If you are going to run a obd-0 motor you will not need a conversion harness. !!see wiring link below!!
Installation tips:
- only bolt on the front mount and the rear tranny mount that bolts on to the crossmember while lowering in the motor. After you have the front mount loosely bolted in lower the motor down and support it with a floor jack as well as the hoist. Now bolt the front tranny mount and bolt it up to the chassis loosely. Now the rear and final bracket, after this is on go ahead and tighten all the mounts. The motor will have a forward tilt which is completely normal.
helpful links:
VSS infoMy project pageinfo on swapwiring helpi found a couple of differences between my wiring and his which i will list
#1 instead of A8 it should be A6 (purge wiring)
#2 the change to A10 is not needed on this conversion (no resonator on 88-91 motors except for the d16a1)
other than those changes everything will work. i had no CEL so i know it will work.
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katman |
15,200 |
8th October 2008 - 10:40 PM
Last post by: Old School REX |
howdy...
In reminiscence to my DOHC 87 civic I had from 94-97, I finally slapped together an 84-87 civic/crx DOHC hybrid article for the public. I wanted to make it really thorough because not a lot of people make thorough engine swap articles....they always leave some tidbit of really important detail out.
Although, its not 100% finished, I recently went live with it and it can be accessed here:
technet.ff-squad.comI'm just wanting some opinions on it and if I left out some important info out, besides the unfinished wiring section & vacuum line routing section I plan to have.
hate or praise comments welcomed
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r4adkshn |
5,517 |
13th September 2008 - 12:42 AM
Last post by: Ghost-One |
http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/inde...wtopic=7958&hl=read the link then this post ....
then apply
* I am super buzy with life right now, havent even washed my crx for 1 month!
KEY NOTES:
96 up blocks will not work
the inter shaft is tricky, you must line it up almost perfect to seal, then mark, drill and tap the second bolt location. yes that's right, 2 out of 3. i don't know how much power this setup is good fot. hopefully someone will find out before i do, i'm broke.
i don't think the 86-89 tegs had pilot bearings? i'm not using one. no problems
starter is obvious. tap the trans straight and use the next bigger common honda size bolt : let me spoon feed you, it's 12x 1.25 (ala trans and others bolts) that's long enough. also enlarge the starter hole for this bolt.
Hidden hurdle 1: alternator bracket will hit master cylinder. you must remove the bracket and cut it to allow master cylinder clearance. however leave the space for the adj. bolt to move untouched. you'll see it. plasma cutter and bench sander ownz
NO need to clearance frame for alt. pulley.
HH2: good luck finding an upper radiator hose. just use tie wire to form the shape and length you need, go to your FRIENDLY parts store and tell them to match it. use stock radiator and lower hose i believe.
HH3: you need to purchase a slim fan. stock will not fit. i am using a 12" with no problems.
i am using 86-89 stock 4-1 header and customed the exhaust
i have no heater hoses hooked up so i cannot say anythin there
there is room for turbo, depends on your manifold, turbo, radiator, etc. etc. etc.
i am using only 2 of 3 front mount bolts, 3rd seemed to much of burden to accomodate, and it's seems fine for stock.
good luck and DON"T FUCKEN GET HURT> safety first
any questions email me, but how fast i reply is in the air.
it's not hard, just take your time
PS: can someone do me big fucken favor?
email me a writeup on what to do and what i need to install vss behind my tach. i want to be sure i didn't miss anyting. stupid code.
O yeah, here's my latest pics:
yeah it's not a mugen front, that one is in the back with the other kit, it need's repair. this one doesn't line up as well as the mugen. previous owner told me this is a jackson copy.
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stevechvz |
54 |
Yesterday, 07:59 PM
Last post by: stevechvz |
need help to find how to connect the vacuum lines. i have the the MAP sensor, canister lines, feul regulator, and i belive its called fast idle diaphram. dose any one which ones i can plug off and which i need to use. the plan is to take this car to the ref to get my approval from the state for the swap.
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crxboi |
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30th August 2010 - 08:56 PM
Last post by: crxboi |
now this is the plug on the right im talking about the one with yellow green please read below , also anyone know what that other one is for i had unpluggen on my other swaps and never ran any codes or ran funny at all.
Ok im going to put my b16 in either tonight or tomorrrow but i have one last thing to wire up. now i have a question about around where the thermostat is, there is a plug but on my obd0 harness i dont have that plug. Now this block is a a2 block so a little newer, now on the a1 block there was this plug that i have pictured now does that just get wired into by the thermostat? cause i dont have a spot to plug it into the back of the block on this new block
this is where i think it should go by the thermostat. its that common brown clip. What color on top what color on bottom?..
hopefully i get this solved and i can finish this off.
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BGPKR |
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28th August 2010 - 01:07 AM
Last post by: strudel |
I'm in the process of putting an 88-89 Black Top into an 87 CRX Si. I've found a lot of information on this site but none that exactly answers my questions. I would think the easiest way of making this swap work would be to swap the distributor and ECU from an 86-87. Is this possible? I've read somewhere that says the dizzy won't work but I can't see why it wouldn't. The head casting should be the same. And if the difference is in the end of the intake cam, a cam swap should fix that problem. Also, how can I tell the difference between the vacuum advance and electronic advance PG7 ECU? Any help would be appreciated.
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14
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masterpenguin |
129 |
27th August 2010 - 10:00 AM
Last post by: TexanIdiot25 |
I do not want to haul the entire 1987 integra home considering it has 4 flat tires, and has no title so i cant scrap it around here. So he has agreed for me to take the parts i want, and get rid of the rest in his own manner. So I want to just rip out the parts I should while im there. Obviously I want the brown top engine,mounts, tranny, axles, and knuckles/hubs. But as far as wiring goes should i take it all the way to the ecu? Also I want the rear brakes, so should I take the whole rear assembly itself or just the actual disc brakes. Anything else I should grab while im there. I have searched around for what to take, but I just want to be confident because I only want to make the hour and a half trip once.
Thanks
-Rob
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blue1gen |
57 |
23rd August 2010 - 06:58 PM
Last post by: Madkore |
I have a 91 shell my son dragged home, he gave up on it. I've got almost everything to do my D16 Minnie me turbo in my 87 hf - except for the fuel supply. Can I use the tank from the 91? I'm going to use the front filter & possibly the fuel lines.
If not does anyone have a good si/dx tank - it's really small.
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9
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scketch |
122 |
21st August 2010 - 01:59 AM
Last post by: KSousa |
I've got an 86 si hatch powered by a dohc zc. Also I've got a 94 ex with JDM d15b vtec engine too... the coupe is the wifes car and is unmolested other than the engine swap and is an automatic... I'm just wondering if you guys think I should keep the zc or go with JDM d15b? Mild build and boost is planned for whichever one is in my hatch.
Thanks guys!
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blue1gen |
30 |
19th August 2010 - 08:44 AM
Last post by: blue1gen |
The D15B's have the cam timing set so the cam marks are even with the top of the head. D16's are like 1 tooth clockwise, right? If the D16Z6 head is put on the D15 block what is the correct cam timing position & which belt to use?
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16
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stevechvz |
362 |
17th August 2010 - 08:03 PM
Last post by: stevechvz |
i have a 87 crx si. i have the hasport rear motor mount for a b series swap. a buddy of mean was helping me install the engine into the car, i finally finished the engine wiring and was ready to install the axles i picked up from the 88 integra. when installing the axles i found out that they dont fit and that i need to cut them shorter or get some from hasport. while i was under the car i also was not a wear that my buddy didnt finish helping me out with the motor mount i found the rear engine bracket not lining up to the hasport mount thats probably why he never finished. i eventually had room to park the car at my house, so ive been messing with it but i just cant get the mount to line up. so what bracket am i suppose to use for this swap the one that cam with B18A1 or a different one??????at this point i have removed and reinstalled the engine twice trying to see if it was installed wrong but i just dont see anything out of the ordinary.
the B18A1 came out of a 90 integra 4 door. not sure if a 2 door is different.
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crxboi |
110 |
10th August 2010 - 11:42 AM
Last post by: crxboi |
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5
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RETROCRX |
204 |
10th August 2010 - 09:22 AM
Last post by: RETROCRX |
OK guys, I need an adjustable FPR for RETROCRX.
She's always run a touch lean but on a hot lapping day that makes the motor run close to overheating.
Does the B&M FPR for the 88-91 CRX fit on the stock ZC FPR? It looks like it would but I would like to know if anyone has done it?
Anybody know
Rob
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22
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rinnaye |
1,068 |
8th August 2010 - 09:37 PM
Last post by: Screech |
I'm currently in the process of swapping my '86 Si D15, for an '88 D16 Black Top, but am having trouble figuring out the proper wiring of the harness, and or repinning, of the harness from the '88 ECU, to the '88 D16 engine.
Can anyone please provide either the written instructions, wiring diagram, or schematics, or at least a source to where I may be able to find any of the above info for the completion of my swap.
Thanks In Advance!
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