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Crx - B18c1 Jdm Swap


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#31
anjin

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The cv's are finished and in. For information, the core length was 391mm overall, and 385mm between the s/face (don't ask me - that's whats on the invoice) and the centre of the diff/intermediate cv joint housing. The cv shop was insistent that the correct location for the spider in the joint housing is at the centre of the housing. The test for this was once you had installed the axle and tightened up the hub nut, if you released the hub nut you should have betwwen 5 and 10mm of play as the other end slid around that centreline. Which it did. If you don't have it centered then you run the risk of it popping out or pressuring your diff.

The dc2 integra radiator is also fitted. It is sitting at an angle with the bottom supported on a couple of plates attached to the bottom rail, and the top sits just under the top rail with a couple of removeable bolts to allow it to tilt back for good access to the filler cap. It is possible to remove the cap without this, but its a tight as fit.
Picture of bottom mount - I've used sikaflex marine adhesive/bedding compound to attach the cup for the rubber insulator to the plate.

Overall view


The next stage is to do the wiring. A good discovery was that there is sufficient length in the engine bay wiring on the lhs (japan/aust model remember) to allow all the connectors and the underhood fuse box to be bought inside the cabin. They will go into the space left by the deleted air conditioning unit and the passenger side air bag. That makes that side of the engine bay very clean.

I still have to work out the accelerator cable. If I want to use the integra cable the pedal fitting is different, and as a result the throttle wire is about an inch too long. If I use the crx cable the throttle end is different with the cable coming in from the wrong side. I'll sleep on that one - might be easiest to redo the end of the integra cable with the crx bits and a new lead stopper down at the local sailing shop.

I'm also sizing up the integra front springs for the rear. I think they are about 250 lbs/inch, and while the bottom spring diameter is the same as the originals, the top is smaller by almost the actual metal spring diameter - the teg spring could almost fit inside the crx spring. They are also longer, so it would be a cut to length exercise. I'm not sold on the idea yet, but they will be junked otherwise so there is nothing to lose.
anjin aka Ian

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#32
anjin

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Update
Did the acelerator cable by adding a rubber plug to the integra cable to take up that bit of length, and siliconing the plug to the lever. Seems to be ok.
Did the wiring - decided to leave the underhood fuse box in the engine bay to make access easy. Ended up being easier than I thought. When I got to the rear wiring however I found that I had three lots of the old wiring shorting out - both the rear demister and the rear hatch open close switch. So I fixed those en passent.
Then got round to the business of trying to start the motor. Couldn't get voltage to the fuel pump, which I tracked down to the main relay. On the continuity tests it checked out ok, but it either did not work or chattered. So I used a redundant air conditioner relay as a temporary bypass for that. Then spent several hours trying to work out why I could get it almost starting but not quite. AFter checking out the electrics, decided maybe it was fuel. Had pulses to the injectors, but when i releived the fuel pressure it was well down on what I had found a couple of days ago when hooking up the fuel lines. As the front of the car was sitting on jacks waiting for suspension work, and the fuel guage ws reading empty, I thought - maybe it isn't that ive wired it in wrong, maybe it really is empty. Yep - just add fuel.

She started up today. Now to do all the fiddley finishing bits.
anjin aka Ian

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#33
firstgencrx

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Anodized some bits for you today. biggrin.gif


They should ship out on Thursday. I will contact you then.

Take care,

David
Sharing with others what I do for myself!

My H22 CRX Project

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#34
GENONE

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AWESOME!!!!

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[GENONE] 1983 CRX Ballade Sports 1.5 SOHC Efi
[BANDIT] 1984 CRX Ballade Sports 1.6 DOHC HKS Supercharged
[SINISTR] 1991 CRX Si 1.6 DOHC Efi

#35
anjin

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David

Thanks for that. They should be great - if I put all the good bits on the one car it'll be quite a beast.


As an update, I have installed the GSR wiring and dash, and have now managed to get the engine to start. had a few adventures as well, like
- forgot to put on the transmission to bodt ground, and wondered why the lights worked and the engine didn't. Wonderful what a complete elctrical circuit will do.
- found four grounded wires in the back harness - drivers door switch, rear hatch switch, and both ends of the rear demister. Pulled all of them.
- installed the under dash fuse box in a really nice spot in the bay, and then found thats were the windscreen washer bottle goes. Ho hum
- the main relay was history. It checked out with the manual tests, but just does nothing or sits there chattering. Replaced it temporarily with an AC relay.
- the engine would crank and start to fire up, then die. I thought it was electrical at first - all that rewiring - but after a while I thought it might be fuel. The injector pulses were ok, and then I thought - maybe the fuel guage is not showing empty because of poor wiring, but because it really is empty. Correct.
- then found that the engine was very sensitive to throttle, and died over 3000 rpm. Went to test the TPS, and found the wiring colours didn't match. Swapped the TPS and the MAP connectors didn't I (saw some other people have had that problem). No codes thrown by the ecu either. I find it very hard to believe that the bloody thing actually started wired up that way, and I didn't get some ecu codes. But it did.

But now I have a problem I haven't seen before in the B series swaps. I can't change gears with the engine running, as the clutch will not disengage. At this point in time it looks like the throw from the clutch pedal is not enough to move the clutch lever through the required distance to disengage the clutch. Its an early B16 cable gearbox, Y1 designation. OBX lsd installed. custom axles. And in an 84 crx. I can change gears with the motor off.
Any ideas - I haven't seen anything posted on this as a problem or something to watch out for in the swaps section or other sites ever. I'm still looking, but any advice or comment is welcome

Just measured the clutch lever arm - 13.5 cm on an L3 FD series box, and 19 cm on the Y1 b series box. There's the problem/ I'll look at swaping the d series lever tomorrow - or weld a new bracket for the cable.
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#36
anjin

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Problem fixed. The B16 box had a 19 cm lever and a 9 cm lift, while the zc box had a 13cm lever and 6 cm lift. I made up a bracket and bolted it to the 19 cm lever at the 13 cm point, and now I have full clutch movement and I can move the car under its own power. At last.
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#37
Screech

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Congrats. That is odd about the levers. I know when I put the Y1 on my 3G that had the EW4/GW combo it I didn't have to change any thing.

If I understand that you modified the lever at the tranny right and if the pressure plate in the Y1 is stiffer than the one you ZC box had, you may want to look into bracing the pedal assembly's clutch cable holder if you haven't already. Due to the extra pressure it is seeing at that 13cm location over the 19cm and that holder is a known weak point on these cars, that may become a problem

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84 Civic 2000S (B20Z2 2.0l, SMF)
 


#38
anjin

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screech

thanks for that. I'll keep it in mind. The pressure doesn't seem too different, but that may be my relief at getting it to work.
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#39
anjin

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Screech

Saw that your signature has l'onely obd2 club member'. In time I'll join you - I have a type R ecu that is obd2a, and got some plugs for it the other day. Once I have the cams etc I'll do that little upgrade.
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#40
Screech

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You gonna really add the rear evap valve and the tank pressure sensor? Or do you plan to trick the computer so it is code free? I can get you detailed pics of what I have done to add those parts and what I plan to do to still improve ("legelize it", not legal in most racing clubs to have any fuel line in the cabin that is not steel or steel braided, but for now my evap lines are the ones from the CR-V, but they were outside the cabin and not steel braided).

#41
anjin

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Screech

I'll see what the licensing people say. If I have to mount the pieces rather than spoof the computer then I will - probably by adding a proper race type fuel cell where I want it. I'd be interested in seeing what you have done if it isn't in your build thread - haven't looked for that specifically - sorry

firstgencrx

they arrived, and as promised by the postal service on Wednesday 10 October. Thats pretty awesome given the distances and a weekend in the way. Picked them up today - needed a signature at the local post office. You do pack them well - I was expecting a much smaller package. They look great, and I really appreciate the detail and quality with the piece in hand.
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#42
anjin

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As part of the dash transplant I have used the integra steering column cluster and ignition switch to simplify matters. The ignition switch was easy - the steering column diameters are a bit different so I packed out the integra switch so it fitted.

The lighting and winscreen wiper cluster was a different matter. The attachment point to the steering column is welded on, and the gen 1 crx has different attachement point orientations to the integra. I made up a plate to transfer the attachement points as shown - plate on top, integra cluster fitting plate and assembly in the middle, and the gen1 on the bottom.


I had to file the integra plate off that steering column so it was available, size it to fit; and remove most of the SRS fitting.

I also had to enlarge the metal plate/bush in the middle of the cluster that engages the steering wheel fitting to cancel the turning lights, so it fitted over the gen 1 column. That last one was hard, as there was not a lot of metal to play with - only a couple of mm. As it was shaped and bent plate steel, I stretched the hole rather than filing it, using the cone end of a convenient wheel stud, sockets of the appropriate size, and a hammer.

Then an aftermarket boss was required so that the steering wheel cleared the new cluster - the cluster stalks slope toward the driver rather than being flat like the gen1. Overall the steering wheel now sits about an inch futher out, which I quite like as I am trying to cultivate a more bent arm steering position to replace my up to now straight arm position.

Getting a cover over it all is not yet done, but cutting the integra cover should get me most of the way. If not, a stiff cloth cover will be made up.

Was it worth it as opposed to rewiring the original switches - probably not; except that this lot is only 13 years old compated to 24 years old for the originals. Those originals were missing as far as the ignition switch was concerned, and broken in several places for the cluster. So I am happy at least.
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#43
Screech

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QUOTE (anjin @ Oct 11 2007, 12:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Screech

I'll see what the licensing people say. If I have to mount the pieces rather than spoof the computer then I will - probably by adding a proper race type fuel cell where I want it. I'd be interested in seeing what you have done if it isn't in your build thread - haven't looked for that specifically - sorry


No need to apologize. All I did was cut the Evap line going back to the tank and adding the OBD-2 parts in-line. This is how there were on the CR-V, just that on the CR-V they were mounting in a plastic box next to the gas tank rather than in the car. I mounted them under the fuel fill tube in the quarter panel.



#44
anjin

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Thats ok - fairly easy to do. thanks for the heads up on how to do it.
anjin aka Ian

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#45
anjin

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Update

I've been trying to work out how to do the fan/heater stuff in RED with the new dash. For those who have never been under the dash, there is an air intake and fan up in the door side of the passenger footwell, an air conditioner box with ac core directly in front of the passenger, and an air distribution and heater box in the middle. I had already taken out the ac box, and removed the heater core from the distribution box. I had been working on using the old air intake and fan, and the integra distribution box as it integrated into the dash and hooked up to the windscreen etc vents well enough to work, together with a 12 electric volt heater. Getting the three connected was a bit of a problem in design and execution.

I realised that I really didn't use the distribution box and fan very much in BLUE - the other gen 1 I have, so I could remove the heater distribution box with no loss. I was then working out how to connect up the fan and a 12v electric heater to the windscreen vents so I had at least demist (required for licensing), when I realised that as the electric heater contained a fan all I really had to do was connect it up to blow straight into the vent. Keep it simple stupid principle applies.

So after some simple fabrication I will have that fan heater set up to a dash switch, and be able to remove all the under dash stuff. I'll post up the fabrication when it's done to my satisfaction - it'll be really basic and simple and light.

Awesome spot for a sub...........
anjin aka Ian

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