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Dmod Project


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#1
Aren D.

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    • Group: 2013 Contributor
    • Location:Tooele UT
    • Drives: 1985 CRX SI/2003 Frontier SC/2006 Jetta TDI/2014 Civic SI
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What can I say I love my little CRX, and at first it was supposed to be a prepared build but I may have overstepped a few rules so legally my car is a DM car, instead of going backwards and trying to repair the car to a state of XP or EP I am going forward with a bad ass DM CRX. 

 

About this project,

 

This will not be a ground up build instead I will only be doing modifications or changes that can be accomplished between races, I will only start updates/projects after I have acquired all the supplies and/or parts required.  I plan to attend every local event this year and possibly some pro-solo events.

 

Okay for now I will be a FWD with a sub 1.8l motor and a "stock TUB". Minimum weight for this class/configuration is 1245LBS with Driver, I weigh 190, So we are looking to get the CRX down to 1055LBS.

The good news is that for XP the car weight was supposed to be 1440lbs, and my car currently weights 1230.5 with out driver or a front bumper, but with 14"wheels and street tires that are 4.6lbs more weight than my 13" race wheels/tires. 

 

Also bad news is that 1230.5 is without ballast... and without ballast my car corner weights without driver are as follows: 

 

FL-416.1  FR-418.2

RL-195.1 RR-201.1

You can do the math on that F/R weight ratio, its poor. 

 

For XP I was planning to ballast the car up... but I never did, and I drove it for 3 events pretty much like that it was extremely loosley goosey in the back.

 

49452164003_311d5695c1_c.jpgDSC_0002 by Aren D, on Flickr

 

 

 



#2
Aren D.

  • Save the pepper, save the world.
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    • Location:Tooele UT
    • Drives: 1985 CRX SI/2003 Frontier SC/2006 Jetta TDI/2014 Civic SI
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For this first weekend I am planing to install this 1987 Integra 19mm Front sway-bar to combat the over-steer.
 
49452644116_1b9db497dd_c.jpgDSC_0004 by Aren D, on Flickr
 
49452163573_422df20f3a_c.jpgDSC_0005 by Aren D, on Flickr
 
In order to install, I have to drop the sub-frame mostly our of the car. My under tray that wasn't doing me any favors because I never finished my front spliter project was in the way and had to be terminated. 
49452643956_df034cb3c9_c.jpgDSC_0006 by Aren D, on Flickr
 
49452877717_bf79aeb1c6_c.jpgDSC_0007 by Aren D, on Flickr
 
I didn't get the rear out so that should probably make a racket on the race Saturday.
 
49452877587_2c92337736_c.jpgDSC_0008 by Aren D, on Flickr
 
You may notice a rear ARB, for now I am just doing some testing it wont be on for the next race, as a matter of fact I promised that bar to a member.
 

#3
Old School REX

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I've followed your build up on this car since it was a true street car.  That will not change with your new goal to switch to DM.  Looking forward to watching the progress and definitely think it's a good idea to do small projects between races!  That way you're still out enjoying the car as often as possible.  

 

Not related to a real race build in any way.... but I installed a teg front sway bar when I went B swap to help with the extra weight of the motor.  I very much liked the results.  Currently my full weight streetcar handles very neutral.  



#4
Aren D.

  • Save the pepper, save the world.
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    • Drives: 1985 CRX SI/2003 Frontier SC/2006 Jetta TDI/2014 Civic SI
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I've followed your build up on this car since it was a true street car.  That will not change with your new goal to switch to DM.  Looking forward to watching the progress and definitely think it's a good idea to do small projects between races!  That way you're still out enjoying the car as often as possible.  

 

Not related to a real race build in any way.... but I installed a teg front sway bar when I went B swap to help with the extra weight of the motor.  I very much liked the results.  Currently my full weight streetcar handles very neutral.  

 

Thanks man, enjoy the show. 

 

Here is the rear sway-bar set up I was testing with it, its still to soft I am going to lock the axle. 

Beefy rodend right? lol about 1.5 lbs. 

49490212801_cae32eb430_c.jpgDSC_0002 by Aren D, on Flickr

49490421002_ff7c057b2e_c.jpgDSC_0004 by Aren D, on Flickr

49490213941_0be4c1e2d0_c.jpgDSC_0008 by Aren D, on Flickr

 

So the integra bar helped along with the ST rear bar, but the car still has excessive movement and I can just picture in my head, the pretty little picture I drew of my car in a turn rolling nicely to my static camber setting, going in to the trash can as I was scrambling about.  Forcing the car to drive around the course is not what I remember at all when this was a street car, in SMF it was WAY faster. 

49489712163_0f27f8983d_c.jpgDSC_0006 by Aren D, on Flickr

49490213621_4ed451efa6_c.jpgDSC_0007 by Aren D, on Flickr

 

VIDEO:

49490417557_be29416a94_c.jpgBTOD_Trim by Aren D, on Flickr

 

What I feel is going on is that I have simply lowered my car too much. The huge polar movement between the front RC and the front CG is just overwhelming my roll resistances up front. At the same time my camber curve is, well the worst ever. 

I am now  in the middle of the lovely task of re-indexing the torsion bars. I am going to jack this bitch up for the next race probably putting the outer lower ball joint 1" below the torsion bar center. Brand new alignment numbers all around as well TBD.

 

I'll report back! Ha the car is going to have some massive fender gap guys. 

49490215011_5e1908d30b_c.jpgDSC_0010 by Aren D, on Flickr

49489713733_78699a1924_c.jpgDSC_0012 by Aren D, on Flickr



#5
Aren D.

  • Save the pepper, save the world.
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    • Location:Tooele UT
    • Drives: 1985 CRX SI/2003 Frontier SC/2006 Jetta TDI/2014 Civic SI
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Hi guys I have all new settings for the event Sunday!

 

Here are the numbers:

Front Camber: -2.5*

Front Caster: +6*

Front Toe: 1/16" total toe out

 

Rear all zero

 

I have adjusted the front LCA so that the outboard ball joint is 1 inch lower than the center of the torsion bar. This, according to my measurements gives me a new front Roll center of 3.71 above ground. 

49504043652_8360b3ae71_c.jpg20200207 Settings by Aren D, on Flickr

 

This is with 13X10 wheels and 255/40/13 tires and the camber noted above. 

 

I have reset the rear roll center to 5" above ground, this is more of a guess. 

 

Set backs:

49504044032_f742386199_c.jpgDSC_0015 by Aren D, on Flickr

I had to remove my shock extension mounts/camber plates and put my old RPR base plates on to have enough drop travel... I Know, I am basically the only guy saying my shocks are too short! but they are for these settings. 

For the rear I do not have enough drop travel with the RSX Konis so I am going to see if these Miata Koni front shocks will do the trick of the rear:

49504043777_f9567213a6_c.jpgDSC_0013 by Aren D, on Flickr

The same adapters needed for the RSX shocks will be required for the Miata shocks here is the adapter drawing:

49245289441_9ef8615b61_c.jpgLower Bushing by Aren D, on Flickr

 

Front Pic:

49504043887_53a90b17cb_c.jpgDSC_0018 by Aren D, on Flickr

Rear Pic W/ RSX koni:

49503318003_6af12423d8_c.jpgDSC_0016 by Aren D, on Flickr

 

Bonus pics to spice up Thread:

49490678741_dfac8d38bf_c.jpgreceived_208160870362544 by Aren D, on Flickr

49490893132_cd845120d7_c.jpgreceived_1562085167291115 by Aren D, on Flickr

49490894502_37c5f53be4_c.jpgreceived_1707125792745608 by Aren D, on Flickr

 

Anyway I am going to try to get the Miata shocks on tomorrow hopefully the drop will be there. 

 

 

 

 

 



#6
Aren D.

  • Save the pepper, save the world.
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    • Drives: 1985 CRX SI/2003 Frontier SC/2006 Jetta TDI/2014 Civic SI
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Big negitive on the miata shocks they aren't going to work the lower mounting eye is 45mm not 40mm like the honda.

#7
Old School REX

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Hopefully the ride height change will give you the results you're after.  Is it possible that you just changed the overall feel of the car by switching away from the rear panhard bar setup?  



#8
Aren D.

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    • Drives: 1985 CRX SI/2003 Frontier SC/2006 Jetta TDI/2014 Civic SI
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I have a panhard bar set up as well, granted it's a little shorter than the factory panhard bar, but tested with that last season, it had the same results. Ran the new settings and the car was still horrible. Which concludes my trouble shooting to my old tires... but I dont know if I want to get 13s or switch to 15s. And now that i have a broken shock I am going to go through the car really good then get some new tires and get back out there. Also (breaking my rules above) I am going to put a passenger seat back in. But for the meantime I am going back to the Miata.
I will keep updating my build with what not to do.

#9
toxicshit

looking good Aren ;) 


1. EDM 1986 Honda CRX AS - B16A1 engine - OBD1 - Turbo - Stitch welded chassis.
2. EDM 2001 Lexus IS300 3.0 RWD - Daily Drive
cr-x.jpg