We got the K Tuned relocation kit installed and also increased the size of the bolt from the 8mm included to 10mm.  we also noticed the bolt does not go into the water pump housing very deep so we are going to source a 120mm instead of the included 110mm length. 
 
changed a few other things today.  RDX thermostat so the outlet points down instead of up and a modified TSX water manifold.  The one on the JDM K24a has a provision the EGR and is much larger.  This one has the heater water port welded shut, since I do not use the heater.  Water temp sensor installed and the block bracket for the passenger side mount.
 
didn’t get as far as we hoped du to the work on the K Tuned kit and alternator.  Next we will get the motor off the stand and put the flywheel, clutch and trans together so it’s ready to go into the car.

No worries re the RDX thermostat. Just want to make I understand correctly. Some of the architecture and nomenclature is unfamiliar to me. And I have no idea re possible interchangeability issues.

On the “water manifold”. I picked that up from your post above about using one from the TSX. I’m assuming it’s what Honda calls the “water passage” which has the water pump mounted on one side and the thermostat on the other. If I understood what you meant, I’m looking for confirmation an RDX thermostat will mate properly with a TSX water manifold / passage.

Thanks for your patience CSP

My water pump and water pump housing came off of a 2005 CRV and bolted right up no issues at all. 
 
The RDX water pump housing comes from a 07-12 K23 Acura RDX.

The alternator can be from any any K20 or K24a or a2.  Just make sure it works with the water pump housing you get.  It was more of an issue when we were trying to use the AC/PS delete and alternator relocation kit and it had to work with the pulley.  Since we didnt use it it mattered less.
 
I am using a stock tensioner now with the K tuned idler pulley kit.
 
hope this helps answer your questions.
 
been putting some miles on the car to identify any issues before hitting the track.  Found some coolant leaks and had to tighten up some clamps.  Ripped around this morning for about 20-30 minutes without any leaks!  Was also watching IATs (Air Intake Temps) and noticed they were above ambient.  Confirms I need to build a block off and duct like I had on the B16.

Thanks CSP. Its beginning to make sense.

When you say quote The RDX water pump housing comes from a 07-12 K23 Acura RDX unquote, do you mean the thermostat instead of water pump?

And as for the water manifold, you used a TSX manifold per your 19 May 22 post no. 138, right?

Glad to hear youre really driving it! Its gotta be a blast.

BTW I hate coolant leaks. After giving up on one many years ago, took the car to a garage. They easily found a slow drip from the pump seal weep hole with a pressure tester. (So slow it would evaporate off the hot engine without leaving evidence). Then more recently used my tester and a stethoscope to track down all the (air) leaks in an old Corvette before refilling the system after an engine rebuild. Within the last year when even that failed on my old F150 I got an inexpensive dye & black light kit at my FLAPS. For the first time in my ownership its without coolant leaks! (The leak was at the connection of the 25-30 year old overflow hose to the radiator; a place never under pressure). :-)

I don’t think I ever explained that.  Since i didn’t end up using the K tuned AC/PS delete and relocation kit I was able to use the one I had.

Without using the K Tuned AC/PS delete and relocation kit, were you able to used the stock tensioner, etc?

Yes alternator is from a modern EP3 Civic.  You must use a K series starter and alternator.

Similar question on suitable alternators: CSP, you mention an EP3 K series alternator; I.e. from an 02-05 Civic Si. But Brians parts list just says Civic K series alternator which would include at least up to 2011, and allow more possibilities. Do you know if it matters between 02-05 and 06-11? Thanks.

RDX thermostat so the outlet points down instead of up and a modified TSX water manifold.  The one on the JDM K24a has a provision the EGR and is much larger.  This one has the heater water port welded shut, since I do not use the heater.  Water temp sensor installed and the block bracket for the passenger side mount. .

Im continuing to collect parts, and have two water handling questions; re pump & thermostat.

A CR-V water pumps suggested for a K24 swap. Is the 07-09 CR-V 19200-RAA-A01 the right one?

CR-Vs began using the K series in 02, and used 2 different water pumps between 02 and 09. The 02-06 CR-V uses water pump 19200-PNA-003, gasket 19222-PNA-003 and mated to 19410-PNC-000 manifold (none used by TSXs). The 07- 09 CR-V uses water pump 19200-RAA-A01, gasket 19222-RAA-A01 and manifold 19410-RAA-A00; all shared with TSX and other platforms.

If my reasonings sound, this opens the pool of water manifold and pump sources to USDM 04-08 TSXs, 03-11 Elements & 03-07 Accords too since they all share the same water manifold and pump with the 07-09 CR-V.

And wrt thermostats are both the Case (19320-RWC-A00) and Assy (19301-RTA-003) from a K series 07-12 RDX needed?

Great info CSP. Thanks!

Ive been ordering parts for my K24A transplant. Wanting to get new service parts from Honda / Acura while theyre readily available. Referring to Brians list

CSP, a question about the cam chain guide B in Brians parts list: It shows 14540-RAA-A02 which was adopted in Honda K24s starting in 03. But RSXs and early TSXs are shown to use 14540-PRB-A01. 07-08 TSXs switched to the -RAA-A02. Both guides are still available as service parts today.

At first I thought it might relate to the 50 degree VTC, but the same guides used on other more pedestrian K24s. So that doesnt seem likely. Is there some interchangeability or compatibility reason? Were two different parts originally released in the Honda & Acura systems? Seems odd that <if> one guide is an improvement vs the other, that theyd both still be available.

CSP, that’s the most excellent video yet

In searching online for a way to determine a K24As year, I came across this 2010 post on K20A.org. There was no verification by other users, and some didnt think it possible to ID the year of manufacture. Some even described different block stamp formats used. Your opinions welcome

Quote: Just confirmed on 04-08 USDM K24A2 TSX engines. You can determine the year by the engine serial number just below the K24A2 stamping. The first digit corresponds to the year of the engine.

An engine serial number that starts with 1=2004, 2=2005, 3=2006, 4=2007 and 5=2008.

Thanks to the fellows at Acura of North Toronto, there were 4 TSXs in the shop yesterday.

Probably wont hurt to add a reminder in here for those who come along and dont have hubs the OP in this thread also mentioned in post #1 that Karcepts sells a 32mm hub appropriate for this swap. A more expensive source, but makes them easier to find.

Hi Manuzzz. Welcome!

I havent done so yet, but plan to contact Hasport for a rundown on everything they offer for K swapping our cars. Their products are #1 IMHO

Quoting CSP:

Axles - From page 17 on 14 November 22 earlier in this thread:
test fit the first production version of the axles.

CSP: please correct me if Im wrong, but I believe Hasport is or will sell these.

Brakes - From page 9 on 1 May 22 earlier in this thread:
for years I ran on upgraded civic brakes from a non ABS car with hawk pads. I think I posted on this a while back. This served me well under heavy track use and would be plenty for street use. My new setup is a Wilwood caliper with 11 in rotors. This is way more than anyone needs for the street and requires 15 in wheels. Check out FastBrakes website as they have some great budget options on there.

Im pretty far outside the norm for guys swapping engines into Hondas.

The 87 Si I had from 86-93 is atop my list of favorite performance / sports cars alongside my 914/6. Ive longed for a VTEC powered AF since reading in Autoweek of the EF SiRs introduction.

Now Im retired and cell phone cameras are everywhere, I drive much more conservatively.

Build priorities are focused on creating a refined rendition of a VTEC AF which retains a stock OE appearance (including the Si wheels). Maximizing engine output is not top priority; not concerned whether the cars K24 or K20 powered. I slightly preferred a K20A, because of its rev-happy nature. More important is a trouble free car at a reasonable cost. Really want something I can get in and drive anywhere anytime in good weather.

Another factor is my 25 yo daughter. She lived in Germany for a couple of years, and drove manual transmission cars. Back home today, she expresses interest in driving a stick, and in my AF. So Im planning for the future possibility it may become hers one day. So it makes sense not to make it too edgy. This is contrary to most all my previous cars.

After the K20A Type R fell through yesterday, I got pictures and videos showing my JDM K24A2 option looks good. I ordered it. Wont have the K20A Type R vibes, but the K24 cost about a third as much. Some may question this, but MFactory will soon sell a 3.41 : 1 FD that I can put in while installing a limited slip in the W2M5. IMHO thatll be fine. Itll provide about 87% of the 1st gear torque multiplication as the wimpy D15A3s tranny. More than offset by the K24. Comparing my plan with the K20A Type R, my swap will have about 77% of the Type R; but the AF weighs about 75%. And it will result in a leisurely 2314 rpm at 60 mph with 185/60-14 tires.

Im happily looking forward to digging in to the project.

That’s the combination off the RBB manifold and the 50 degree RBC VTC gear.  Since I knew that I was going to be able to meet my limit goal of 220 wheel hp I wanted the most torque possible to pull the car from upshifts and out of the corners.  This is also why I stayed with the RBB manifold for now, best option for torque on a stock motor.

Sound logic, Vic.

My car will end up much “tamer”. Although I may have a second set of better wheels & tires, I plan using the stock wheels mostly; severely limiting tire size and traction. Ordered my W2M5 on Monday. Been looking at engines. A K20A Type R fell through today due to slightly weaker compression in 1 cyl. So not really settled yet on that vs a JDM K24A. Once that’s decided, I’ll know which direction for FD. Will likely end up with 2 tunes; one for each wheel & tire set.

Thats great info CSP. Thanks for correcting my IACV misnomer.

BTW: it didnt register to say this while I was reviewing your tuning graphs, but

the MOUNTAIN of torque you have at 4500 is incredible

CSP, soon after getting your K24 running, you mentioned how the IACV helped the idle. An IAVC’s an idle air bypass, correct? I see a good number of ECU’s Hondata lists as suitable for KPros don’t support idle air bypass. Do you have any insight on the idle quality of K-series without IAVC / IAB?

Curious about the benefit of an AF gauge vs a wideband o2? Accuracy? Facilitates real time monitoring? Or?

I really like the idea of monitoring VTEC oil pressure in real time. Seems pretty important because a lot of tuning seems to involve significantly lowering the VTEC engagement rpm. But the cost isnt justified on a mass produced engine with VTEC set higher.

I wasnt too hopeful youd have data logging from your tuning session. From a tuners point of view its kinda giving away some of their tradecraft. Ive been studying a lot and plan to do the tuning myself. Its looking way down the road, but Id love to see some real world data while making VTC, ign timing, etc changes to maybe validate some of my thinking.

Looking forward to seeing what your corner balance looks like vs the B16.

And btw, I like how your valve cover matches the car color. Makes the K24A look like it was factory installed 👍

Hi RPR. CSP, everything you (& Brian!) have done looks very professional. Youve set a high bar for the rest of us.

Question about the extra bung in your header (collector); is that for measuring exhaust gas temperature? Just outta curiosity when they tuned your K24A, did they happen to capture any of it in the KPro4 data logging? Would be enlightened to review.

Most of the CF parts I ordered from HeelToe arrived Friday; the hoods coming soon, and Ill order a sunroof panel whenever theyre next available. Im looking to order my W2M5 5 spd this week, then hopefully an engine. Super psyched!

Hmmm … 220 vs 149 hp (+47%!), 200 vs 109 ft-lbs (+83%!) at 4300 vs 5700 probably without adding weight (HeelToe CF body panels probably offset most of +25 lb swap weight increase). Performance increase must be awesome!

Great progress, CSP! Thanks for sharing info as you proceed.

Curious if you got a feel for how the 205 section tires handle the torque under sudden throttle applications. Any news to report yet? Also curious about how corner weights compare vs before with the B16. Had a chance to put it on the scales yet?

Written words posted on the internet can’t properly express how envious I am … SUPER cool !

AWESOME CSP !!!! Congratulations !!!! Great to see it running. Is a quick test drive before a formal tuning session in the plans? If so, what base map do you have? The stock PND?

Good luck Wednesday!   Curious how much body flex that monster engines going to create..

Grease, if I understand, youre pondering the difference in reaction forces (or more correctly, moments) applied at the engine / transmission mounts required to prevent the drivetrain from moving or spinning in the opposite direction to that which drives the car forward at WOT.

A quick comparison of moments created at peak torque in 1st between the OE CRX Si and CSPs expected tuned K24A2 configurations:

CRX Si: 93 lb-ft, 2.916 1st, and 4.4 FD, or 93 x 2.916 x 4.4 = 1193 lb-ft @ wheel.

CSPs tuned K24A2: 180+ lb-ft, 3.266 1st, and 4.389 FD, or 180 x 3.266 x 4.389 = 2580+ lb-ft @ wheel

Front drive architecture means these moments are applied around a lateral axis at the centroid of the drivetrain mounts in a manner tending to bend the front portion of the frame upwards.

There are forced induction CRXs running around with much more grunt. I have no idea if they use or require additional chassis stiffening but am curious. Its also gonna be fun to see if CSPs tires are gonna be able to put all that massive torque to the ground

Wow those are weird numbers. Hope you figure the problem out soon

Looking forward to news its up and running

Curious what the TPS reading was in the closed position … near 0% as it should be?

This’s all part of the normal teething process. It’s gonna roar to life any day, now

Thanks CSP.

The ATX-20 is awesome! 3.8lbs!!!

Am I correct your alternator is a modern solid state Honda unit vs the G1 CRX unit which I believe is pre-solid state?

I sure hope Bryan plans offering hardware / brackets you’ve detailed … it would be a big help.

We worked on the motor again last night, simplest things fought us causing it to take longer than it should.  
 
we made final mods to the K Tuned relocation kit so that all went together better.  Still do not have the correct alternator so working on that in the meantime.  
 
got the flywheel and clutch installed then mated the trans to the motor.  We then prepped the trans for the mounts.  Had to remove the OEM studs and that was a battle.  One came out okay and the other was a mess.  Also had to chase threads due to buildup inside them and studs being damaged.
 
we are at a point where the motor is ready to go in.  We did find the cable speedometer assembly will not fit in a K Series transmission.  They are very different and so we are going to have to find another option.  I have an extra cluster we are going to use to see if an electric speedo assemble can be placed inside of the cluster.  Working speedometer is a nice thing to have unless your a full race car.
 
we hope to work on it Saturday afternoon.  Brian is getting the radiator ready and we will cut the lump off the passenger frame rail so the mounts can go in.

CSP Quoting you from above ... Still do not have the correct alternator so working on that in the meantime.

My apologies if I missed this somewhere else in the thread, but what did you wind up doing for an alternator?