I have a few extra parts leftover from my 85 CRX thats been retired to track duty. Parts are just sitting around and I could use some extra cash to fund my 540 and racing budget. Feel free to PM me with offers, though I may not reply immediately as I don't frequent the site as often.

1) JDM tail lights (amber corners), one crack that doesn't leak water. Got in a trade from OG Wagon a few years back and never used on my car

2) JEM B and C pillar braces in great condition. Have hardware for C pillar bar, but not for B pillar

3) Original OPM adjustable panhard bar, rod ends are worn but can be replaced

4) 80's vintage MOMO Corse steering wheel, worn but still in respectable shape for its age

5) 2 Month old Eibach ERS springs 7x2.5 inch (fits OPM coilovers), spring rate is 275. Paid alittle over 120 shipped

6) Acura Integra GSR "fat fives" with older Nokian snow tires, used as my winter setup for past 3 years. Tires have some life left and wheels are painted dark gray (could use a respray to make them pretty again).

Well guys its been awhile since I've been on the forum as school and work are currently at the top of my priority list. The ex-CSP crx is still alive and kicking but has finally been retired from daily driver duty. Hopefully if all goes according to plan she will see a revival as a fully track prepped/auto-x competitor if I can get some free time over the summer. In the meantime after much too long I have replaced the CRX with a more "reasonable" daily driver. I picked her up last Friday night and have slowly been falling for her as the miles rack up.

Alittle info on the car:
1999 BMW 540i
Sport Package
6spd
Dinan stg 4 engine engine package
Full Dinan Suspension
Various M Sport goodies
147xxx
Quaife ATB LSD with 3.15 gears

Car is a fully documented two owner car with some extensive records at Motor Werks West In NJ who are Dinan specialists. So far the car has been great to me and mileage is quite as bad as expected (almost 20 mpg mixed driving with a few spirited runs). Picked her up for a very reasonable price with a few minor needs, but hopefully with some preventative maintenance and some TLC it will last anotehr 150k.

Some Pics (excuse the poor MS paint skills and the dirty car):

I currently run Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS 195/60/14 as my everyday tires in the spring/summer/fall and love them. Great grip in wet and dry, decent tread wear, and enough sidewall to make the ride somewhat comfortable. Good luck, J-Man

Came across this on nasioc, he apparently picked it up for 20 bucks in a trade and is looking to flip it.

http://forums.nasioc...d.php?t=2291388

Thanks for the input guys and you've all made some pretty good points that I hadn't initially noticed. Right now I'd like to keep the budget under/around a grand, I could probably do more but don't want to get too carried away putting a ridiculous amount of money into the car. I do like the idea of a NA honda versus a turboed car, but I know power is much easier to achieve with a properly managed turbo setup. I was hoping that by building solid NA hydra I'd have a simplified way of switching the car over to electronic advance ignition as well as an increased power potential. I understand there would be a trade off on idle and drive ability with 272 cams (Im already running a 272 in my ew and its not all that bad), but my major concern is that if I'll be disappointed by the power output if I built it. Nothing would annoy me more than wasting my time and money for mediocre results.

Realistically I might be able to build a nice "hydra-t" for around that price if I went the route of gtpilot and ran pg6 pistons with a stock blacktop head, then pieced together a junkyard turbo kit (with the proper support mods for fuel, boost, and tune) and get it tuned on turbo edit (obd-0) and easily exceed my power goal for 140whp. The only issue I see with a turbo setup are probable reliability issues (especially after seeing E-Man's issues over the years) and that is a key factor since this will be seeing daily duty.

But the idea of a B swap also sounds appealing strictly for reliabilities sake, but that opens up a whole other can of worms regarding selling parts/having the car down for an extended period of time/fitment which never seems to go right on any bseries swap I've followed. If you really think about it I could probably eek out a Vtec bseries swap for 1500-2000 out of pocket, plus selling off the ew goodies like the Mugen equipped trans and DC header.

So as you guys can clearly see I'm still up in the air with this decision and weighing my options. If anyone has any insight or opinions feel free to drop a line. J-Man

For awhile now I've been considering various methods of massaging more power out of my CRX and after considering various options (turboing my current EW, d16 swap, even bseries), I'm thinking that a hydra would be the best bang for my buck. I've come to this conclusion because my car already has a bunch of EW specific mods (Mugen LSD equipped trans, lightweight flywheel, HD axles, Mugen motor mounts, etc) I could capitalize on those while saving some money versus a full swap and starting from scratch. I've been browsing through past hydra threads and have found alot of info regarding the actual build of the hybrid motor but little regarding the power potential/output. So here's the question, what would be a realistic power goal at the wheels for a NA hydra with the following parts:

EW block overbored to fit p29 pistons, fully balanced bottom end with ARP rod bolts, milled blacktop head (aiming for compression in the 11's, or as high as possible on premium gas), Reground cams (possibly delta 272's), F22 adj cam gears, and of course all the supporting mods to run this combo (OBD-0 wiring conversion on a chipped pm6 with a custom tune). Now I'm aware that I'm simplifying everything that goes into building a motor like this and their are many variables to calculating power. My goal is to put out a 140+whp and still retain some streetability for a fraction of the cost of a b-series swap. But if these goals are unreasonable I'd rather stick with the good ol 100whp EW, save my pennies for a B swap, and sell off my EW goodies when the time comes.

Feel free to chime in with any info or opinions regarding the matter, thanks again RPR.
J-Man

I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my rear suspension on my ex-CSP CRX and looking downgrade the rear spring rates from the current 450lb rear springs on my OPM coil overs. The car will see primarily daily use with the occasion auto-x and open track day. Currently I'm running 27mm torsion bars in the front which from what I understand are the equivalent of 375lb spring. I'm also running OPM camber plates, illumnas, no front sway bar, and a pretty gigantic rear bar. The question is what rear spring rates will offer me the best trade off between comfort and road feel. I'm debating between 250, 275, and 300lb rear rates hoping for a better ride but I don't want ruin the fun or ability to rotate easily in doing so. If anyone has an opinion or some feedback I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks again, J-Man

Looking for a pair of coil over springs to fit OPM coil overs (I believe 2.5x7). Specifically looking for spring rates between 275-375lb springs. PM me with what you have, Thanks J-Man

Raising the dead,

Rexy is still alive and up until the NEC meet was seeing daily use. Unfortunately after years of abuse some of the suspension components have worn out and the car is sitting partially disassembled in the driveway. The spherical rod ends on my OPM panhard bar as well as the spherical endlinks on my rear swaybar have alot of slop and are in need of replacement. The new plan for the car is to detune the suspension to make it more "livable" on a daily basis while still having some prowness for the occasional track day. Plans include a new chedda J phb, hypercoil 275-300lb springs, poly swaybar endlinks, and possibly poly bushings for my OPM camber plates.

Also on the to do list is a new sheetmetal sunroof blockoff with roof vent (ghetto AC? lol), newerish window weatherstripping (if anyone has a pair in good condition I'm interested), and refurb the 85 Si spoiler I finally got my hands on (Thanks again Big Orange!).

In the year since I've updated this thread I've added a few small bits including DS tuning floor mats, Vortex tabs (Yes like an evo), restored the quarter panel window trim, installed new thrush muffler, and performed some basic maintenance. The cars currently got 267xxx and still goin strong despite the recent suspension troubles.

Heres a few recent pics of the car from the Wilq's NEC meet (alittle dirty from the obscure dirt road that the GPS took us down)

Sorry flashmatrix I don't have the number, but I just called the warranty center listed on the Honda website and after a hour or so of being transferred around/talking to representatives I wound up talking to the right person. You just have to be persistent and go through the process which may include registering your car as well as yourself over the phone with Honda's warranty system (it may have already been registered by a previous owner fyi). Good Luck, Jon

I experienced similar problems with a pair of used seat belts that I bought when converting my CRX back for street usage, the locking mechanisms tend to fail over time for whatever reason (wear, contamination, age, etc.). Luckily I read through the Honda Warranty Policy and found that it clearly states there is a Lifetime Warranty on all their seat belts. I went to my dealer with this info and they rudely declined my request stating the car was too old and the belts were no longer available. I then called Honda's corporate center and spoke to the warranty department, told them my story and they said the belts were still available and the dealer had to the replace them for free. After they heard about my struggle with the dealer, Honda sent out a letter to the dealer stating that they had to replace my belts and a few weeks later I had brand new NOS seat belts installed for free. It took a bit of time and legwork, but was definitely worth it as safety of yourself and occupants isn't something to mess around with. Hope this helps and good luck, Jon

Im not 100% sure but delta cams, web cams, colt cams might be able to regrind your dx camshaft to different specs, that way you can run the dx pump/dizzy. Prices at delta are pretty reasonable as well, it was around 90 bucks including return shipping for my stg2 regrind of an SI cam. Just something to consider, Jon

Not too sure but they look like toyota celica seats, regardless they look good to me lol

Aren, the car looks great and looks like its a blast to drive even with the stock EW lol, can't wait to see some crazy action pics with the beastly d16 thrown in there. I've experienced similar issues with 450lb rear springs coupled with a large rear swaybar, the car rotates nicely but once the back gets loose its very difficult to catch (coming from someone who has spun numerous times when first autoxing my car). After one high speed spin on the track last year without any roll protection I too will be stepping down to 375lb rear springs (a plus for daily driving as well). I'm curious as to how well the 3M tape/RTV seals up the sunroof with the plexiglass panel as I still haven't found a suitable replacement for my sealed up factory sunroof. Did you have this panel installed over the winter? If so did you notice any distortion or shrinkage from the plexiglass in the cold weather that was substantial enough to effect the seal? Jon

Sorry I didn't post pics as planned, digital camera is broken but I was able to find one from sarge's meet that may give you an idea of the sidewall height. Keep in mind my car is not very low at all and that the tires are mounted on 7 inch wide wheels so the sidewall might be slightly less beefy than a 5.5 or 6 inch wheel.

Zak, I just mounted up my summer tires (the bridgestones 195/60/14) so tomorrow Ill go out and take some pictures of them mounted up on my team dynamics (14x7) so you can get an idea of how they look. I definitely do not think that the sidewalls are soft on the re960as and have never felt any sidewall flex even during spirited driving.