Thanks Geez!

 

 

 

Let me know how much you'd like to get for one of the spindles shipped to 30043 and I'll paypal you. 

I didn't get a chance to look for them yesterday, I will have plenty of time this weekend however.

I'll let you know.

I have one or two of them under one of the workbenches in the garage.

Also have a complete HF rear axle (without the aluminum drums). I just have to pull it off the car.

Left and right fender
Dash and door panels
Carpet
Pm if your selling these parts

I have a left fender, also have a right one but it needs some repair. As in, it's in two pieces but is complete.

I also have a dash from a 87 HF (I think it's blue, need to check again).

I have a new aftermarket carpet, still in the box that I bought from another member here years ago. I will not be needing it.

Door panels...are you talking about the interior panels or the outer lower plastic panels?

If the outside ones I have a couple of  perfect ones on some doors that are in fantastic condition...I also have a brand new set of the Heel/toe fiberglass ones still in the never opened box.

I really need to make this stuff go away!

I actually have two of them, one is on the complete HF engine I just took out of a car I have and another that I used to use on the race car.

B18A1 and the later B20A-B20Z heads all use the same 6.5mm valves stem size that the EW engines do. I've never used the stock Honda retainers from any of those engines but Ferrea has Ti retainers that work.

Part # is E11023.

If this is a complete head set new I am interested.  Trying to get these for this years 2nd place FSP and 1st place FSPL National Champion car.   Just want a new set to re fresh as a safety measure.

 

Looking for titanium if possible but I heard they could not be found anymore.

 

Please let me know.

I'll look up the number of the Ti retainers I've been using and get that to you. I don't remember which engine it was right now but one of the B series engines (B17 or B18) has the same diameter stems as the EW and the stock EW springs will work in them. I've been running them in my engines for years.

Do you still have any of this? Thanks

Yep, I have the whole damn car, raced it at Daytona twice this year actually. Price is negotiable....probably should have mentioned that.

I don't really like doing this but since it's not exactly the 'same' ad...   

I have a ton of parts I've accumulated over the past 30 years of owning/racing these and it's time to unload some stuff.

I have '87 CRX HF I need to move. I've had this on C-list for over a month now and mostly got spammers and low ballers. So, I've decided to part it out, here's a link to the updated craigslist ad: http://orlando.craig...5552682060.html

I also have a brand new set of fiberglass lower door cover from Heel Toe Auto. Bought these for my street CRX but never put them on and I sold that car last year. I actually have never even opened the box!

New ones from Marcus are $249 ea, I'll ship them for $400...in the lower 48!

I'm also going to sell the other CRX race car that I'm obviously never going to finish. I put a D16A1 in it to run in GTL but never got much further with it after that. I doesn't have front fenders on it but I will probably throw my old Mugen wide race fenders on it, depending on how much I decide to let it go for. I just recently got all the parts to put Integra rear brakes on it, also the rear axle has had the swivel bearing removed and has a machined aluminum block in it's place. The original owner did this (I never knew him) so there is no rear sway bar, the rear axle is essentially it.

It was originally an 85 Si. I'll try to get some pics of it today or tomorrow. $3000?

I have two spare D16 bottom ends (one brown, one blacktop) that will need rebuilt and I think 3 more cylinder heads. Two of which are still in the bags from a local machine shop that had done fresh valve jobs on them. Two or three extra intake manifolds also. $300 for all of it.

My old race seat, I had this in my CRX race car for almost 20 years and never had any issues with it at all. The bracket is made to bolt it into a 1G. I will take offers on this.  http://orlando.craig...5552761139.html

Probably have a ton of more stuff to get rid of, B18b sitting on an engine stand & in my way, a Hasport B mount kit I never used (and probably never will), Pretty sure there's a B juice clutch tranny here somewhere too. I just need to go through it all.

Do those bolt up like stock units?

Yes they do, except for the front section where it bolts behind the front bumper. I didn't feel like making that part, it was too complex and I really didn't see the need for it on the race car.

Also the front section where the turn signals go is now separate, similar to the way it's done on the Civics. Those corner pieces and the header are one piece now.

This is the CRX I built originally in 2001 to compete in GP after having run CRXSi's in SSB and then ITA/ITB since 1986. Won the 2002 SARRC GP championship and the 2012 SEDIV HP championship, finished 3rd in the 2013 Runoffs. Has (until this year anyway) usually been one of the quicker Hondas in the HP class. I am considering backing off contending for a National championship for a while (if not permanently) and simplifying some things in my life. 

ENGINE – two, recent Runoffs engine that had ‘issues’ that week, that I’m also in the process of rectifying, and a backup engine that has a different cam grind with different lobe centers. Which is also getting freshened up right now. rings, bearings, valves & valve job.

Fresh headwork done on both cylinder heads by Boles Motorsports- limited prep legal headwork. Backup head has not had any port matching done 
One-off header, designed and made by me. Have another (better?) design in the computer, just never got around to building it.
Moroso aluminium oil pans… two of them, one for each engine. Both of which have had the typical cracking areas for these repaired properly by someone who knows how to weld aluminum a LOT better than I can. They have not cracked or leaked since he repaired them.
Stock rods with ARP bolts 
24 lb/hr pintle type injectors
Aluminium flywheel (no longer manufactured) with newish steel friction plate made by JB racing in 2013. 
New CP racing pressure plate and clutch disc installed just prior to the Runoffs
Megasquirt (MS3) EFI fuel and ignition control with crank trigger and wasted spark ignition.

SUSPENSION
Koni shocks/struts all around. Front shortened, D/A and rebuilt by Proparts in Sonoma, CA in…2012(?). Rears are single adjustable (reb) stock ITR units purchased around 2008.
Integra (first gen) front sway bar
Two adjustable rear sway bars, 5/8” solid bar and 1” hollow (1/8” wall)
bump steered front end
All suspension bushings are either spherical bearing or rod end.
Custom front caster/camber plates 
Two sets front lower control (radius) arms, 1 stock replacement and 1 custom tubular set with hi-misalignment rod end/ball joint.

Custom built Mumford link in place of the panhard bar. Rear roll height adjustable to 3 heights.
Stock front brake calipers with two sets of rotors (1 new) and Carbotek pads (1 new set)
Custom rear disc with Wilwood PS1 calipers and custom discs


BODY
Custom front and rear fender flares, rears are Mugen GT reproductions from Houseman Autosport, fronts are brand new custom ones I designed and built this past year, a full 1.5” narrower per side than the Mugen GT flares. 
Fiberglass/Carbon fiber hood (~4lbs)
Fiberglass/Carbon fiber rear hatch with Lexan window 
Front and rear bumpers are both stock Honda pieces
Lexan windscreen from some stock car, has ALWAYS had tear offs on it. Perfectly clear under the tear-offs
Fiberglass rocker covers to replace OE plastic stuff that always breaks.
Carbon fiber lower cover on drivers door (replaces stock plastic piece. Passenger door still has stock plastic cover after all these years (probably shouldn’t have said that).
Airdam as used at the 2015 runoffs with splitter and I believe I have a spare splitter, (1/8 plywood).
Shifter bushings have been replaced with a steering U-joint at the gearbox connection and bronze bushings everywhere else, no rubber.

TRANSMISSIONS

Houseman gearbox with straight cut, synchro gearset. New 2nd gear last year, two sets of 3rd, 4th & 5th gears. I had custom ratios made a few years ago to suit the HP restricted prep power levels and rpm. Two final drive ratios, 4.25:1 & 4.40:1 with no longer available Mugen LSD. Newer gears and all final drives (including mainshaft) have been REM’d by Jamie.
Ratios:
1st – 1.846
2nd – 1.466
3rd – 1.176 & 1.222
4th – 0.96 & 1.047 (have to check on the 1.047, I may have sold it)
5th – 0.826 & 0.893

STOCK Honda Si gearbox with 4.40:1 FD and LSD from S. Eckerich (same person that made the old OPM units.)


WHEELS - 
(2) sets of 13" x 6" Volk T37, approx 8.5lbs wheels, need to double check the weight. 
OR
1 set of 13" x 6" Real Racing 2pc wheels, I had holes drilled into them by a local engineering firm after I got them and discovered they were solid disc wheels. Also weigh about 8.5lbs each.
4.5” backspace (works out to be almost exactly 38mm offset).
1 set of 13” x 6” Revolutions, zero offset, I ran these exclusively on the rear of the car for years. Gets the rear track almost to the max allowed without having to use wheel spacers. 


MISC
Rotary molded 10 gallon FT-3 fuel cell
Firecharger fire suppression system (never been fired)
Momo steering wheel
3qt Accusump
Oil system has remote filter mount for big Ford filter ahead of a 19 row oil cooler (don’t recall brand)
VW Golf dual pass aluminum radiator
Stock brake master cyl, no booster, split front/rear with Tilton lever type bias adjuster.

Not sure what I’ll do if I actually sell this but I’m not quitting racing…yet. As I mentioned, I just need to back off for awhile. This car is still more than capable of winning on any given weekend in HP.
$19,000, I’m really not interested in parting it out. I'll have to take some more pics if anyone's interested, I don't have a lot of current ones.

Ed, did you see the front ones I had on my car a Daytona? Not sure if they're the size you mentioned but they are significantly narrower (1.5" per side) than the old Mugen ones I used to run. I have molds for them too.

I didn't compare them to a stock fender but I did with the Mugen.