52 replies to this topic

[chedda_j]

Now Its time to install the rest of the mess.

Look back at the piston assembly schematic and make sure to install everything in the correct order.

Install the E-Brake Screw, bearing, washer and spring. Then install the snap ring supplied in the kit to hold everything in.

Now install the Main Cylinder O-Ring. Use lots of grease as usual.



To install the Wiper Seal I slid the Piston into the seal first all the way to the bottom of the piston. Then I installed the seal into the caliper. Once that was done I extended the E-Brake scerw out of caliper by turning the E-Brake Lever Rod with a wrench. Now make sure to apply a very liberal amount of grease on the Cylinder Seal and the Wiper Seal as we are going to turn the piston inside these seals when installing. Start turning the piston inside the seals with a 7/16 or 1/2" wrench onto the E-Brake Screw. Be carefull not to rip the seals. If it looks like your going to rip the wiper, just turn the piston back and start again.

EDIT: I just want to note, when getting close to finishing screwing the piston in all the way, its best to pull the Wiper Seal over the piston like a turtle neck, then screw the piston in the rest of the way with a flat screwdriver or wrench, and reinstall the wiper. This will prevent any ripping.



A couple shots of it installed.





Now install the E-Brake Lever and Spring. The Nut is 17mm. Make sure to do this correctly, the parts are side specific, make sure to use the right ones.



Now install the Bracket Sliders and Bushings supplied by Dorman



And now its all finished.

[CSPCRX]

Question,
Since your using the CRX axle does the track width stay the same or is it still slightly larger?

[chedda_j]

The trackwith actually becomes wider by about 1/4" either side. I plan on running Miata flares so this shouldn't be an issue.

[Old School REX]

Man, this is a cool write-up. Thanks for the time you put into it.

[jweber89]

Now install the E-Brake Lever and Spring. The Nut is 17mm. Make sure to do this correctly, the parts are side specific, make sure to use the right ones.

Or the left ones depending on which side you are working on...

Jeff

[chedda_j]

Re-Assembly

Very funny ^^^ maybe I should say "correct" side not "right" side.

I also want to note, maybe I made a mistake while installing the brakes, but I had to use the brake bracket with the letter "L" on the "R" side, but the "R" caliper on the "R" side worked. If I used the "R" bracket on the "R" side, the caliper would hit the brake hose holder located on the trailing arm. Maybe the gurus will chime in here.

Here are some pictures of the brakes installed. Im short two studs to complete the driver side...they never came in my kit and now I have to try and source two.

Reinstall the Spinle Assembly using the hardware either from the parts car and or old hardware. Note that the external studs are longer, so you will need them for the install. You may notice the paint rubbing off on the bearing face, but that was semi-intentional because I greased the face before painting to prevent paint getting into the bearing seal.



Reinstall the trailing arm.



Here are some finshed photos. I need to get some disc screws to attatch the discs to the hubs. Note that these arent "needed" but its nice to have them so your disc stays true when removing your wheel. The wheel is what actually keeps the disc true to the hub, this is why its so important to torque your lug nuts.

[chedda_j]

Small update. Just wainting for my stainless lines to arrive.



This set from Goodridge is specially designed for the REAR disc setup. The best part about it is that it comes with stainless fronts too, which I will be using when I upgrade to Integra fronts. That will all be part of this write up further down the road. Like I said...small update...soon to be updated.

[cruiserbruiser]

I ran into the same problem with my recently swapped rear disc conversion on my 87 Si. I figured since I was using Integra calipers the Integra hoses are different and so I used my sabre saw and cut brake hose mount off the trailing and then dremeled the sharp edges and then painted the raw edge with a good anti-rust primer and paint. I then mounted the correct calipers for each side. What surprised me was that all the other tutorials on the conversion never mentioned this problem.

[chedda_j]

Yeah I don't think it really matters a whole lot. I think mounted the other way will work just fine. Especially because the brake lines, hydraulic and cable, are both custom. If the purchased stainless lines aren't long enough I will be doing just like you said and grinding off the stock brake line holder. I'm guessing on the integra, the brake line mount is further up the trailing arm, so to clear the caliper.

[Old School REX]

Small note on the goodridge "rear disc" lines. They may send you the wrong ones. When I ordered mine it came with the correct front lines and then rear lines for the drums... I called them and they sent me integra rear lines and let me keep the drum lines. I told them of the error on their website, but who knows if they fixed it. Good luck to you.

They had no idea what I was talking about when I contacted them... I just had to tell them to send me teggy lines, they were like "are you sure!?" lol

[chedda_j]

Thanks for the heads up, the part numbers differ 1 number between the two. 21110 for disc and 21111 for non disc. I hope they don't screw it up Haha.

[cahitapower]

wow nice write up...i will be looking back at this when im doing mine..thanks chedda

[chedda_j]

Thank you sir ^^.

Another update, I had some serious problems finding 11mm studs for the hubs. If you read my post http://www.redpepper...showtopic=53155 , named "M11 studs wtf?", you would understand a little more of my frustration and the fact that no one makes M11 studs and its hard to even find M11 bolts.

After doing some serious research on sizes, I found out that a 7/16" stud is nearly the same size. The difference is less than .005". Here is a little comparision between the new 7/16" x 2 1/8" studs and the TOO short M11 studs. If you can find all the studs off of a Integra you do not need these, but because I had to "piece" my swap together, I had to source alternatives.



To install them I had to use a 11/16" socket and one of the 7/16" nuts and some pretty good torque to get them to seat. I didn't really have to work too hard to get them installed and what a GREAT replacement. The part number is listed below and can be found at most local autoparts stores or Rockauto. I also want to note that this will only replace 6 out of 8 of the studs, as two need to be longer. Two studs from a jeep, approx 3" would work for the others.

Dorman AutoGrade - Wheel Stud, 7/16"-20

Part # 610-157




Here is a photo of the studs all pressed in.



And the brake mounting bracket installed, I need to grab another nut and some lock washers to prevent them from backing off.

[chedda_j]

Ok so its coming along with the install. I got allot of parts in the mail today. Goodridge may have sent me the wrong stainless lines tho. The package says SI rear disc, so I don't know why they would send me the kit without jumpers. I'm guessing that they send a generic kit for the crx's as they are pretty much all the same. I should have got the ones for the Integra. I'm not entirely sure that I will be able to send them back, so I might just have to get some little 5" jumpers with a banjo fitting and a male end to make up the difference between the calipers and new stainless lines.

You can see below my problem. You can also see where to install the new brake clips to retain the brake line (red arrows). You have to remove the old rubber line with a 10mm line wrench, remove the retaining clips and install the new line, easy as that.



I also got most of the front kit for the Integra brake swap. I received new drilled and slotted rotors from Brake Labs, new ceramic pads and calipers from Rockauto.com. Its all so exciting .

The proportioning valve is coming from Danny, thanks bro.

[EuphoricBlue]

Those calipers look new (or reman) are you planning to keep them the way they are, or will you double check their quality and paint them to match the rears?