31 replies to this topic

[n1smo]

ok my girl said to go get some Carls Jr so i said ok.. well i hold down the gas and turn the key and i sit there for 2 min straight and its turning over and wants to start but doesnt. then barely it starts. so im holding down the gas and slowly the rpms get higher and higher i mean like 100 or 50 rpms every 3 seconds thier getting higher. ok i get outside my complex and i let go of the gas and it flat out dies so i start it again and its doing the same rpm crap.. ok make it to carls so now its already warmed up... dying everytime i left go of the gas mind you.... get out buy what i need to buy get in the car this time it only takes `1 min straight to start it make it to the stop sign leaving the parking lot. i have to stop so i let go and it dies agian.... same thing again 1 min and then im going down the street at 10 MPH!!! MAX!!! about 2 miles... then i finally make it home. the car cant idle i cant start it and let it idle it will die... and i changed the fuel filters. PLEASE HELP!!! im going to cry

[Disco Stu]

Bum a ride from someone and get a compression tester, or bum a compression tester off someone. That'll let you know if you've got good compression or not. To check the compression, take all the spark plugs out, hook the compression tester to the spark plug of the cylinder (check one at a time). Have someone sit in the driver's seat and hold the gas pedal all the way down, then you (while standing over the engine) take a wire and run it from the battery positive post to the starter solenoid switch (It will be on the starter, with a covered 1 wire running to it). The car will crank over and not start, and if you hooked up the compression tester right, you'll get a reading. It should, at the very least, be 128 PSI. If it's much less than that, you've probably got a bent valve or a blown head gasket. In either case, you're in for a rebuild. If the compression is up to snuff, then you'll have to try checking something else, maybe the carburator.

PS, if anyone has a better solution than sticking a wire to the starter solenoid post, I'm all for it. I just can't find the procedure in my helms and I'm too lazy to look

[rpr]

Just undo and ground the coil wire, and crank it with the key.

[LEW]

sounds like mine did with one plug wire off. were ya messin with them? maybe a wire went the rest of the way bad while messing with them. take a ohm meter and check resistance, all should be near the same. and your dizzy has the firing order on the plugs.

just a thought

[rpr]

My stalling problems went away when I replaced the wires, also make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, and that the air filter is good.

[LEW]

ya, on the dx it was the coil wire. i guess a batt leaked in there in the past and had to clean batt terminals every two months there after. even ate the coil wire i spoke of. cont was fine just had a hair line split and was grounding out from time to time.

[Mark Petriw]

I agree it's the coil wire. I used to take it out as a security measure when i'd park in a bad part of town. The engine will just keep cranking. Take it off and try to push the cable through a bit so more is sticking out of the rubber plug. thats what I did. If that's not it read this:

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If i just turned my CRX's key it will never start. What you do is pull the choke all the way out, put your foot flat on the gas (be in neutral). Then turn the key. The second the engine starts to catch (usually after a second or two) punch in the choke but leave you foot on the gas. Then it will start with a mighty roar. If it works you owe me a coke.

[Mark Petriw]

I read your original post more carefully and realized we have the same problem. More so in the winter I'll be driving along and suddenly my revs will want to drop really quick. I know taht if I put the clutch down it will die. I have f*#king idea what causes but a temporary cure is to (while still roling at whatever speed) put the clutch down and let it die. then pop the clutch back up and let the engine starts itself. One, sometimes twice and the problems gone.

[n1smo]

I know taht if I put the clutch down it will die.  I have f*#king idea what causes but a temporary cure is to (while still roling at whatever speed) put the clutch down and let it die. then pop the clutch back up and let the engine starts itself.  One, sometimes twice and the problems gone.

ok it just like that but i cants make it past 3 grand on the rpm holding down the gas and cant go past 30 mph

[crx_dx]

it may be a blown headgasket. does it have power when your driving? maby a few cylinders arnt firing, change the spark plugs,wires,dis cap and rotor, i would compresstion test it to see where your at, look at the oil cap look for milky stuff. kinda like coffee with too much creamer.

[n1smo]

yes the oil cap does have white stuff on it like cramer i was wondering what that was

[crx_dx]

blown headgasket then

[n1smo]

does it cost alot to fix that???

[boman]

does it cost alot to fix that???

If you get it done at a shop, prepare to bend over...

The milky stuff in your oil is coolant. So that's why at start up (you were
mentioning in another post) you get clouds of white smoke out the tail pipe. The
head gasket should cost around $60, but labour will run you a alot, because it
involves taking the head off, redoing the timing, inspecting valve seals (and prolly
replacing them). Basically you're looking at a rebuild. You might want to weigh
out the option of a swap too, might run the same amount of money.


Here is a link to the carbed engine tech illustration;

http://www.redpepper...6/aac.sized.png

Click on it to make it larger.

JAKOB

[n1smo]

can i just buy the head gasket and do it myself??? and flush the oil???