niccer

Found some, thank you all. 

Anyone have a spare driver's side spindle laying around they'd like to sell?  I need one in the next week, so any help would be appreciated. 

I hope to add video and a recap from each event I attend, so instead of cluttering up the forum I decided to make a thread. 

It's been four years since my last (and only) HPDE and the first time for the civic to see a race track since 2005/2006, with its prior owner.  Typically, any HPDE organizer will require a n00b like me to start off in the novice run group, which requires you to have an instructor ride with you.  Since I don't have a passenger seat and it'd be a major pain in the ass to install one, given the cage design, I had to find a group that would allow me to run without an instructor.  Given that I'd done an event in the past and am not a complete dolt, I was able to secure a spot with iTrack, based out of Atlanta, GA.  

I rented a Uhaul trailer on Friday and swiftly crunched my Home Depot air dam when loading the car.     Total 'duh' moment, but also nothing some black tape couldn't fix!  This was also my first time towing anything more than 30 minutes, which ended up being just over 5 hours and things went great.  Pulled into the Comfort Inn around 7:00PM, met up with my buddy from NC, grabbed some food and hit the sack with a stomach full of butterflies. 

The 5:00AM alarm came a little early, but I felt like a kid on Christmas morning and was buzzing about in preparation to head to the track.  Tech, check-in and the drivers meeting went as they should.  My group was the second on track and the butterflies that were with me the night before came back with a vengeance as I was waiting in my car for our turn. 

The first session went well.  As I planned, I gave a ton of point-by's, stayed under 6/10ths and just got a feel for the car and track.  The second one was the same, except I stepped it up to 7/10ths and even got to play around for a few laps with a group of three other Hondas.  I noticed the car stuttering on a hard left while full throttle on exit and also at higher RPM's in third and fourth gear.  My fuel gauge was showing just under half a tank, but I figured I'd go fill it up just to rule fuel starvation out of the equation.  Turns out that's all it was.     The car performed perfectly for the third, fourth and final 20 minute sessions and I was gaining confidence in its and my abilities.  There's nothing better than getting point-by's and keeping trailing E92 M3's, 2015 5.0's, and other cars at bay in your 90hp car. 

All in all, I couldn't have been happier with the car's prep and how it performed.  I am itching for some more power and better brakes, but know that I should get a few more events under my belt before changing anything too much.  The trip home was spent going over future plans; B16... Konis... Tube front end... replace rear quarter panel... 225's.... fender flares... 

My current setup:

-Stock D15a3 w/ header

-4.9fd

-LSD

-Toyo R888 185 x 13"

-Tokico Illuminas

-No front sway bar, Aftermarket rear sway bar

-Carbotech XP10 front pads, stock rear drums.

Here's a few laps from my last session of me chasing down a Mustang and B-series Civic. 

Alright guys, I need some input on a problem I'm experiencing.  I've done a weeks worth of searching through the forum and picking the brain of a fellow member, along with quite a bit of testing. 

After my car warms up and is idling, it'll develop a stutter and the rpm's will drop gradually for about 10 seconds.  It'll idle okay for another 10 or so seconds, then the stutter and drop of rpm's even further will start, then the cycle repeats until the rpm's get low enough during one of the stuttering cycles that the engine stalls. 

The car seems to run great as long as I have my foot on the gas pedal.  Come to a stoplight and after idling for a few it'll start the above process.  If I hit the gas pedal while it is sputtering, it'll want to die.  Half the time it'll die and the other half it'll take a second or two of 50% throttle to sputter back to life and take off.  I did notice that it is worse when the outside temperature is warmer.  It wouldn't give me this problem on days when it was ~55F or below, but will on anything warmer.  

Here's what I've checked, replaced and/or tested:

ECU.  Installed a PG7 ecu from a 1g integra and it didn't change the problem.  Idled a little different, but still did the same thing.

Timing.  Adjusted the timing to what the FSM says it should be.  Although it started idling better, the problem was still there.

Fast Idle Valve.  Replaced the original one with a spare I had.  Adjusted the external screw all the way out and all the way in.  Also completely closed off the valve inside the housing to help bring the idle down from 1,500rpm to 700rpm.  Problem is still there no matter what I adjusted, although I'm much happier with the lower idle speed now. 

MAP Sensor.  Tested the MAP sensor with a vacuum pump and multimeter.  5v supply just like it should be.  Ground was good.  When testing the return voltage going back to the ECU, the max I could get to read was 2.88v with no vacuum.  As I started pumping vacuum into the line, the voltage did drop, so it at least works a little bit.  Can anyone confirm whether 5v should be sent back to the ECU with no vacuum being placed on the sensor or if 2.88v is okay?

Oxygen Sensor.  Installed a new o2 sensor a few months ago.  I did have to solder the old plug onto the new wire, but really doubt that's the problem.  No CEL has come on in the past few weeks when I've idled or driven it. 

Vacuum Leak.  I've plugged and gone through every vacuum port/line coming into and off this thing with no effect on my stuttering/stalling issue. 

Distributor.  Took the distributor apart to see if there was excessive corrosion or wear on any of the points.  Everything looked really good to me inside. 

Fuel Pump & Filter.  Just replaced the fuel pump and filter with no change in issue. 

This is a pretty crappy recording of what I'm talking about.  The car completely stalled about 2 seconds after I stopped the video.  I didn't realize how poor the audio was, so if anyone wants me to record it again but with better audio, I'd be more than willing. 

I need one of the three large bolts from the rear mount that connects to the the block and transmission.  I seem to remember one or two of them being longer than the other/s, but am not sure.  I think I need the center one and will double check later today.