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Installing A Weber 32/36 Dgev On A 87 Honda Crx Dx


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#1
ydennek

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Installing a Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor on a 1987 Honda CRX DX




The Options:

My carburetor was flooding my engine and I needed to get it fixed. I looked into my options, and here they are:
1. Sell my car 'as is' (not going to happen)
2. Rebuild my carburetor at a min. cost of $60 + time
3. Pull one from a junk yard, it might work and it might not
4. Buy a rebuild one for $219 from nationalcarburetors.com $310 total. They said that I can send it back at my cost if it does not work, and they will ship me another one.
5. Buy a name brand carburetor. I went with Weber, because that's what everyone online said to go with. Weber cost $340

I thought about all my choices. Now keeping in mind that I am a broke college kid, $60 is a lot of money, for a 50/50 chance on a rebuild kit. Junk yard idea was all negative. Now what I have left is buying rebuilt for $310 or new for $30 more. I do love math but this is more of a logic thing. So I went with logic... I mean the Weber. I bought it off eBay form a seller named 'allautomotive'. I placed my order on September 13th and expected my carb to be at my door step on 22nd, it was a no show. It finial arrived on 25th.


The Research:

I read on several website about how to install the Weber carburetor, most incomplete. Here are some sites that I have used:

http://www.3geez.com...ad.php?t=11067 = How to, Running Keihin 2bbl Carburetor without emissions or electronic contorls.
http://members.fortu...acuum_lines.htm = How to remove the vacuum lines
http://www.3geez.com...ead.php?t=38161 = Weber 32/36 - 34 - 38
http://www.redpepper...al/v/87Civ-fsm/ = FSM
http://www.webernort...ootingguide.pdf = Weber trouble shooting guide

Some other pictures and papers that helped me out:
The papers that i received with the Weber
Some extra diagrams that helped me out


Technical Part:

1. Remove old carburetor
2. Devac engine
3. Install new Weber
4. Make final adjustments

Part 1: Removing old carburetor

Don't be scared (I was, a little). Just do it. Remove everything that is connected to your carburetor. I said everything. All you should see at this point is the intake manifold. You will see one hole that has coolant in it, top right; plug it with some kind of sealant like Quiksteel. Scrape the area where the old carb sat clean and put a rag in the two holes so nothing falls inside. Do not throw anything away and try not to break anything.

Part 2: Devac Engine

Now remove all the vacuum line that where connecting to you used to be carb. I said everything. Remove the rubber hoses, the medal lines, the few canisters, the boxes. Think of it this way if you can pull it off remove it. If you have to cut it off keep it for now. Do not throw anything away and try not to break anything. I made a post with some questions that I had and here it is: Weber 32/36 Dgev In A 87 Crx



Part 3: Install new Weber

Follow the instruction that came with. This process is the easiest. Do not install the air cleaner until you have adjusted the idle screws. I used some high-temp red rtv silicone (gasket maker) to make sure there would not be any leaks. After I removed 15lbs of extra crap I stood there looking at the Weber and saw that I only had to hook up 3 lines. The fuel line, the electric choke, and the vacuum advance port. The vacuum advance port is the only thing that I am still wonder if I hooked up right, I hooked it up to the distributor vacuum port (the bottom one, and put a cap on the top) I then put a cap on everything that stood out. The first start video on YouTube


What I am still working on:

What is the best way the linkage can hook up to the throttle.
Find where some of the vacuum lines go.
What to do with the wires I am not using.
Fine tuning.

Last words:

This is still a work in progress. I will finish this write up as soon as I finish the work on the car. Side note I suck at spelling and grammar, I am much better at math. If anyone want to add anything just ask. If you need help with your install fell free to ask me. I work on the weekends and probably won't be able to help then, but still ask.

Edited by ydennek, 01 October 2008 - 09:46 PM.

1987 Honda CRX DX

#2
ydennek

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I finished the final tuning today and i love the Weber Carburetor. I was having problems with idling, weird sounds, vacleaks, and lots of other crap. They are all gone now. I am not saying that doing a swap is going to solve all of you problem, but it did solve all my carburetor problem. Thanks to all that have been helping me though this process.
1987 Honda CRX DX

#3
84classicDX

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QUOTE (ydennek @ Oct 2 2008, 10:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I finished the final tuning today and i love the Weber Carburetor. I was having problems with idling, weird sounds, vacleaks, and lots of other crap. They are all gone now. I am not saying that doing a swap is going to solve all of you problem, but it did solve all my carburetor problem. Thanks to all that have been helping me though this process.


Update please? How does she run? Is it more powerful, etc. BTW, I liked your in-depth instructions on how your achieved your goal. Please close the loop, with the update.. and of course gas mileage figures. Thanks!

#4
1gencrx

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Looks Great! I can't believe this thread didn't get more attention. I had a carbed CRX once, that thing was a PITA. This seems like a simple solution to the overly complex system honda used.

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#5
ydennek

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QUOTE (1gencrx @ Oct 9 2008, 02:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Looks Great! I can't believe this thread didn't get more attention. I had a carbed CRX once, that thing was a PITA. This seems like a simple solution to the overly complex system honda used.

Its funny how i remove 15 pounds of extra crap and tons of vacuum lines, to only hook up a fuel line, one vacuum line, and the choke wire. I was getting about 25 -30 mpg and now i am getting 40+ mpg (this is an estimate, i have not had the chance to fill up the tank, it has been on 3/4 forever now happy.gif ). You would think less is better to start with. I will up date more information when i fill up and post another video. Thanks for everyone's help.

Edited by ydennek, 09 October 2008 - 06:49 PM.

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#6
ydennek

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My first fill up: 22.58 MPG ohmy.gif . Wow, am i upset. I did stomp the gas a few times and i finished some fine tuning on it, but damn i thought it would be better then that. Most of the miles where highway too. Either i did a shit job of tuning it or i am dragging a invisible parachute behind me. I am going to have a friend take a look at it to see if i missed anything. Any ideas or suggestions on what i might be doing wrong?
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#7
Captain Regular

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QUOTE (ydennek @ Oct 9 2008, 07:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Its funny how i remove 15 pounds of extra crap and tons of vacuum lines, to only hook up a fuel line, one vacuum line, and the choke wire. I was getting about 25 -30 mpg and now i am getting 40+ mpg (this is an estimate, i have not had the chance to fill up the tank, it has been on 3/4 forever now happy.gif ). You would think less is better to start with. I will up date more information when i fill up and post another video. Thanks for everyone's help.

Only thing I can think of is that it's running rich, but from what I hear, adjusting the mixture properly (with a propane enrichment kit) is a bit complicated and somewhat pricey, unless you can borrow the kit from an auto parts store and get your own propane. I'm not really sure how big of an impact that'll make or what the real effects of running too rich or too lean are, and I hear that running wrong in either direction isn't good for the engine, but it's especially worse if you run it lean. Anybody care to clean this up?
Also, a question on how you did this. I want to rebuild my stock carb, but it's hard finding a rebuild kit, especially finding a good deal on one. Everything is looking to be at least $70, which is like 2 or 3 TIMES what kits cost for other carbs, which sucks. Money is tight right now. I was wondering if I take my carb off, will I ruin any gaskets or can I just put it back on? I'm wondering if I can take it off to do a devac and then reinstall the carb, un-rebuilt, without any problems? You removed yours and installed again, what needed replacing? I'm specifically thinking gasket between the carb and manifold, but I don't know if that's in the rebuild kit or if it's made of RTV?

#8
ydennek

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QUOTE (Captain Regular @ Oct 12 2008, 07:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Only thing I can think of is that it's running rich, but from what I hear, adjusting the mixture properly (with a propane enrichment kit) is a bit complicated and somewhat pricey, unless you can borrow the kit from an auto parts store and get your own propane. I'm not really sure how big of an impact that'll make or what the real effects of running too rich or too lean are, and I hear that running wrong in either direction isn't good for the engine, but it's especially worse if you run it lean. Anybody care to clean this up?
Also, a question on how you did this. I want to rebuild my stock carb, but it's hard finding a rebuild kit, especially finding a good deal on one. Everything is looking to be at least $70, which is like 2 or 3 TIMES what kits cost for other carbs, which sucks. Money is tight right now. I was wondering if I take my carb off, will I ruin any gaskets or can I just put it back on? I'm wondering if I can take it off to do a devac and then reinstall the carb, un-rebuilt, without any problems? You removed yours and installed again, what needed replacing? I'm specifically thinking gasket between the carb and manifold, but I don't know if that's in the rebuild kit or if it's made of RTV?


I am thinking about buying new distributor cap, rotor, and plugs, I don’t think it will solve any problems, but I think it might help. I found it hard to find the rebuild kit as well. I was in disbelief when no one had it and when I did find someone they wanted way too much for it. The previous owner removed the carburetor and reinstalled it with RTV, guess he was to cheap as well. It did not leak and I did not have any problems with the RTV on it. I would leave the carb on during the devac, just incase you mess something up with the carb. This way you will know there is only one problem…the devac. I started off by removing the old carb and putting a rag in the holes. Then I waited a couple of days, I was too scared to do the devac, then I just did it, with no turning around. I had lots of questions about what I was removing and if I was doing it properly. Thinking about it I still have a few questions. I replaced some vacuum lines, the fuel lines, both fuel filters, and I added a breather for the valve cover (you wont need this if you are keeping it stock). You can buy sheets of cork and cut to fit, and then use some RTV with that, just a thought. I say go for it, take some pics and make a little write up. I know my write up is not the best, but it might help someone someday. If you have any questions let me know.
1987 Honda CRX DX

#9
ydennek

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So here is a short story. Springs are bad on a Weber carb. So i added a spring to retract my cable... and i am an idiot. The spring was too much and i was choking my car. So i removed the spring and loosened the bolt that holds the cable in and it went back a lot easier. The car runs much better now, will update more later.
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#10
Captain Regular

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I really like this thread, keep us up to date on how this is going. I wanted to ask you about the "electric choke" on the Weber. Basically, what's the difference? I hear that if I devac a stock carb, the choke doesn't quite function exactly right anymore, but this Weber carb...does it just get hooked up to...whatever wire and then it's got a perfectly functioning choke, no vacuum system required? Is the stock carb choke completely disabled in a stock devac, or can I rig it to even be manual?
EDIT: Oh, the STOCK carb... Is it a Keihin model "2bbl" That seems to be all the info I can find on how that works, as far as models go. I GUESS 2bbl is the model of the Keihin carb that was stock with a lot of Honda's from the time. But it seems that you and I have almost the exact same car, and this thread is just chock full 'o brilliance I can relate to. Thanks!

Edited by Captain Regular, 17 October 2008 - 12:39 AM.


#11
ydennek

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QUOTE (Captain Regular @ Oct 17 2008, 01:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I really like this thread, keep us up to date on how this is going. I wanted to ask you about the "electric choke" on the Weber. Basically, what's the difference? I hear that if I devac a stock carb, the choke doesn't quite function exactly right anymore, but this Weber carb...does it just get hooked up to...whatever wire and then it's got a perfectly functioning choke, no vacuum system required? Is the stock carb choke completely disabled in a stock devac, or can I rig it to even be manual?
EDIT: Oh, the STOCK carb... Is it a Keihin model "2bbl" That seems to be all the info I can find on how that works, as far as models go. I GUESS 2bbl is the model of the Keihin carb that was stock with a lot of Honda's from the time. But it seems that you and I have almost the exact same car, and this thread is just chock full 'o brilliance I can relate to. Thanks!

I am glad you asked about the choke. My father came by my house the other day and the first thing he said was "sounds like the choke needs some adjusting". So i let him at it. The choke was not opening up all the way, I didn't think about adjusting it before, but it made sense and runs even better. I can get on the highway even better now. About the stock carb, i am pretty sure that it was a Keihin model 2bbl. From what i have read after the devac the stock choke will not work as good, But i could be wrong sense i did the devac then immidietly installed the weber. You hook up the old choke wire to the new choke and it works great. The only vacuum line is for the distributor advance. I wish i could answer more about running a stock carb with the devac, but i never had this configuration on my car. Hope this help and if i come across anything i will let you know.
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#12
ydennek

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32 MPG is what i got this week.
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#13
Mr.87Rex

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wow very nice wright up i am abouth to do the same thing but i got a question for u were did u get your adapter plat for the carb to intake manifold or did u make one?
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#14
kodi191

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i did the exact thang to my car and i cand get the vac advance right and it allways runs ritch and when its cold i have to toalty reajust it and the mpg goes down but more power dry.gif

#15
ydennek

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QUOTE (Mr.87Rex @ May 15 2009, 05:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
wow very nice write up i am about to do the same thing but i got a question for u were did u get your adapter plat for the carb to intake manifold or did u make one?

Thanks! I purchased my carb off ebay and the adapter plate came with it. It fits very nice. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.
1987 Honda CRX DX