Jump to content


Member Since 02 Jun 2018
Offline Last Active Aug 30 2021 03:58 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Radiator Replacement

24 August 2021 - 09:50 AM

Soooooooo I figured it out.   Radiator cap.   Lol.

In Topic: Radiator Replacement

11 August 2021 - 11:19 AM

Trying to figure out if you pull the header panel off and remove from the front, or somehow snake it in front of the engine?  Looks like there is no room to do it that direction.

In Topic: Radiator Replacement

07 August 2021 - 08:27 PM

Anyone have these photos?

In Topic: Overheating.

07 August 2021 - 05:02 PM

I suppose the extra paint on the radiator could be adversely affecting things. I do know from past experience with my rex, that the process you use when refilling the system after rebuild can directly affect things. I found that using the procedure listed below (which is from another member post here...sorry, if I could remember whos' I'd give you credit!) made all the difference in the temperature on my car...maybe it will help?



Put a short piece of clear tubing over the air bleed screw so that the tube is higher than the radiator cap. Crack open the bleeder screw until the tubing fills with fluid and watch for bubbles coming out of the tubing. Leave the bleeder screw open, as the tubing will prevent you from leaking coolant.... it will seek it's own level. Jack up the right front corner slightly to tilt the head up towards the bleeder screw. Set your heater on full heat. This will open the coolant lines to the heater core.

Remove the cap and fill the
radiator to just below the seat (where the base of the cap seals). Fill your overflow so that it is between the MIN and MAX lines on the bottle. Gently give all of the hoses a gentle squeeze to 'burp' the air out of the system. Top up as needed. Now start the engine with the cap open and the bleeder open. Continue to squeeze the hoses with the engine running until you don't see any more air burp out the radiator, or see any air bubbles coming out the air bleed. After about 60-90 seconds, close the bleeder screw and replace the cap. Allow the warm up fully or take it for a short 5 minute drive around the block until the fan kicks on at least twice. Park the car and allow it to cool fully. When completely cold to the touch, remove the cap and give the hoses a couple of squeezes to confirm the air is removed. Top up the radiator (if needed) and top up the overflow (again if needed).

Top hose hot/bottom hose cold = clogged rad.
Engine overheating/top hose cold = faulty thermostat.


This should be stickied, just sayin'.  Awesome writeup, thank you!

In Topic: Tachometer Not Working, 3G Civic Si

25 June 2021 - 09:47 AM



Smash that like button purely because that is a legit screenshot of Sir Mixalot's booty dancer with 3g Tachometers photoshopped on her booty


Anyway, FINALLY FIXED MY TACH! And... if you want to see way too much detail between an Si cluster vs a Non Si cluster, the amount of differences is just staggering; literally no parts interchange other than light bulbs! As a product designer this makes no sense, seperate tooling for even the gauge FACES of the Si, different base, different gears on the speedo, entirely different ways of doing the trip odometer, just... wtf... lol. Kind of a boring video but I was just perplexed at how different these clusters are!