15 replies to this topic

[greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's]

This thread is an accumulation of different electrical problems I’ve encountered owning these cars since 1993.   How I’ve fixed them.  It’s a work in progress.  Will be adding/updating over time.

 

I always remember Consumer Reports rating the CRX “poor” on electrical.  I didn’t begin experiencing issues until after 170k

 

Several of these issues were solved w help from fellow RPR members on past posts

 

1) HVAC stopped working electrically

 

2) Intermittent starting problems - Main relay

 

3) Blower fan low speed stopped working

 

4) Fuel pump beginning to fail

 

5) Turn signal speed rate varies w engine rpm.

 

6) Cyclopes brake light and rear defrosters stopped working.

 

7) General electrical connector failures

 

8) Engine no start - distributor solid state

 

9) Bouncing rpm needle

 

10) Flickering dash clock, resets to 1pm

 

11) Alternator: brushes, voltage regulator, rotor failures

 

12) Sunroof not fully functional

 

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[greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's]

1) HVAC Stopped Working After Replacing Radiator

 

I had replaced my radiator back in the 1990’s.  All done.  Pressed the AC button on, the green light came on, AC turned on for 1 second.  Stopped and never came on again.  Green light would come on, no engagement of AC circuit.

 

Moved to TX.  Needed AC back.  Took me 30 hrs of troubleshooting to root cause problem.  
 

Short of the long of it.  when swapping the radiator, the connectors to the cooling fan and a sensor look identical.  I accidentally reversed the connectors.  This blew a circuit in the climate control.  
 

First step was to hot wire the clutch. Test r12 charge, at blew cold, but idle boost didn’t come on

 

Followed Helms troubleshooting.  Basically, there’s a blue wire w black stripe.  It ends at the ecu.  Runs through both cooling fan and clutch relays, hi/low pressure cut out switch above the accumulator, timing relay (green module located right side of glove box), freeze sensor on evap coil, fan switch and through the climate control module.  Needs to have continuity through all these components for AC to come on.

 

Apparently this is a common issue. After moving to Texas, CRX#2’s AC did t work either.  This one had a front end impact.  The suction hose atop of radiator was never replaced.  Fixed that, charged it up and no go.  Turned out to be reversed connectors just like  CRX#1.   Replaced that climate control and all worked.

 

CRX’s were plentiful In the yards.  Drove to the yards.  Pulled climate controls.  Recall 1 out of e dry 2or3 would work.  It’s a finicky part to acquire

 

I’ll get to this w more detail as I work on MadMax.  MadMax’s AC (CRX#3) worked back in 2001.

 

****. My advice, if your AC works, color code those connectors.*****

 

To follow up w pix later

[greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's]

2) Intermittent starting/Stalling Problems

Began having intermittent stalling, but most start up problems around 150-170k.

 

Normally, I’d just turn the key back on and it would fire right back up.

 

I hate replacing parts trial and error.  I had kept a long wire w alligator clips to test spark while on the road.

 

Turned out to be main relay.  Solder joints failed on CCA.  Common issue.  Got lots of help from RPR member.

 

Appears common repair back in 1990’s.  A lot of fuel pumps were replaced not realizing it was just the main relay

 

Took about 4 years of random, failures to pinpoint the issue.  I’d turn the key to “on”.  Listen for the 2 second pump circuit to function, then start the car.  In a blue moon, I’d turn the key to “on”, and the pump prime circuit would. To come on.  Once u turn engine on, if the relay was going bad, the engine would start, then immediately chug and stall.  The prime circuit would put enough pressure in the system to get the engine to chug, then stall

[greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's]

3) Low Speed Fan Function Failure = Blower Resistor

 

My low speed function to the blower stopped working after I removed the dash and blower box around 287k.

 

Read through Helms

 

Took apart a spare junkyard climate control.  Disassembled the fan switch.  This one on upper right was heavily used.   I wasn’t keen on using these parts due to wear.

I cleaned up the grease from the junkie part.  Sanded down the copper.  Opened the 287k switch. Looked a lot better.  Tested and wasn’t the issue.  Sanded and cleaned. Refreshed w dielectric grease.  Theres small ball that creates the detent.  Be careful not to lose it

Turned out to be the smaller, low fan speed coil on the blower resistor.  Wire small, corroded and brittle.  Must have yielded when I knocked around the blower box removing the fuel lines

Apparently a common problem.  I removed the resistor ps from CRX#5&9.  Both were broken as well.  Ended up pulled MadMax’s CRX#3.  It worked

 

You can order new aftermarket’s from Standard P/N ru-435. $25-43

[greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's]

4) Fuel Pump History And Diagnosis

 

Pumps appear to be replaced from misdiagnosis of main relay.  Check the relay first.

 

My pump was original.  I pulled and replaced around 270k.  It would function fine,  never pressure tested.

 

It was getting louder over time.  At cold temps (blow 20f), it got really load toward the end.

 

I pulled the pump and replaced w the used one off CRX#9 w 129k.  I pulled some NOS pumps.  

 

 

Ran them  dry w a battery.  I compared noise.  Compared suction strength by placing my finger over the intake side.  My 270k pump was the loudest and barely had any suction.  I compared the sound and suction of the 129k pump to the NOS.  Couldn’t tell a difference.  Had another used one off another crx, appeared fine as well - it was stuck, used the brake cleaner and shaking method to free that one up too.

 

 

Hard to see.  My pump test set up.  Ran fuel through the used one to flush anything out and ensure it worked

 

one point to make, a guy at a junkyard told me to not bother using used pumps.  Said he’d have a lot of returns bc they wouldn’t work.  The 129k pump sat for a couple years.  The gas gummed up the pump internals and wouldn’t work.  I sprayed brake cleaner inside the pump.  Tried running the pump forward and reverse.  No go.  Then I shook the crap out of the pump like a spray can.  Well, the internals broke free and began to rattle.  Gave the used pump power and it worked.  iMO, used pumps are fine to use.  I might have ruined rubber components by using brake cleaner.  Suggest using fresh gas first.

 

the used 129k pump has been in my CrX#1 for 10-15k now.  Now issues

 

I was surprised the internal pump filter was only 20% filled of debris.  I had expected more after 35yrs

[greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's]

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[greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's]

7) General Electric Connector Issues

 

So far, only connector issue I’ve had so far is my right side headlight went out.  A cop pulled me over.  I pulled a replacement out of the glover box while on the shoulder while he was checking my ID.   Once I wiggled the connector, it worked.  Good news, no ticket

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[greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's]

11) Alternator

 

Alternator failure: brushes, voltage regulator, rotor.

 

See this post for details…

 

http://www.redpepper...rnator +rebuild

[greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's]

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