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Head Mods, Cams, Header...smog Legal?


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#1
'85-SI

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Well I've learned a lot from reading but I could really use some clarification as to if I'm gaining any head weight here... First, from what I've gathered, I could use a P/P on the head, #40 grind cam from WebCams, DX outer and Si inner valve springs, and mill the head to what .040 or less? So With this all said, doesn anyone run a similar setup in the great state of CA? Obviously this will pass on visual, does it blow the numbers though? Will it pass smog? One last question, i know...geez... Is there a CA legal header available for the EW motor? If i'm off the deep end with any of my info here, please let me know. I'm interested in leaving the stock EW3 in and throwing a little money at it.


Thanks

#2
Vicious

there's quite a few members running that setup in cali. Rarecrx, cbscott, madkore, etc. etc......in other words yes the p&p head wit it milled a bit and the cam and springs should be legal. the people i posted all live in cali and drive around. i know madkore has the most similar setup except the springs he has some mugen springs in his head though i'm not sure on his cam though. and as for a legal header for the ew look for a DC sports header. good luck though. not sure if the mugen header is legal since it doesn't had a CA legal sticker or plate.

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#3
Vicious

madkore's actual setup i was off by a bit wink.gif

QUOTE (Madkore @ Sep 8 2006, 04:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hey Vicious,

You can do this:

Engine Mods:

1985 CRX Si Fuel Injected Engine
P&P Cylinder Head
Milled Cylinder Head
Ported Intake Manifold
Big Cam (Gude Bullfrog Stage 2, 5500 to 7500 RPM Powerband)
HD Valve Springs (DX outers and Si inners)
RC Ported Throttle Body - RC Engineering
OPM 4 to 1 Header
Oversize Lucas Fuel Injectors - RC Engineering
ARP Rod Bolts - Summit Racing
Balanced Rotating Assembly
MSD Ignition
MSD Coil
HKS CAI with K&N Filter
HKS Cat-Back Exhaust System - No longer available
Hi Flow Catalytic
Integra ECU
Recurved Distributer

The Teg ECU only really works if you have a cam that builds power to 7500 RPM. Your engine must be set up to take advantage of the higher rev limit.

Then you need heavy duty valve springs (DX outer and Si inner) so you don't float a valve, and ARP rod bolts to handle the extra RPMs.

I have had this engine in my car for over 10 years and almost 60,000 miles.
I redline this engine on a regular basis, and it is still running strong.
This engine is bombproof, and reliable.

I pass the California Smog Check.

I used to get 30 MPG at 90 MPH before I changed to the 4.93 final drive.

I still need to install the adjustable cam gear and modified racing distributer I have.

I also have a 93 Civic Si intake manifold and throttle body that have been modified to fit the EW engine. I'm not sure if this will actually flow better than the throttle body that RC Engineering ported for me, but I'm going to try it out.

Never had it at the drags, but it probably runs a low 14/high 13 second quarter mile. My drag racing buddy says high 13s for sure.

Your big expense will be porting the cylinder head.

Oh yeah, I'm the original owner of this 1984 Civic S, so I'm an old man too.

Good luck!

Bill

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#4
SCCALUDE

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I know that for passing the emmisions test using an MSD ignition helps a ton.

I had an si 1.5 with no cat, strait exhaust, all the control box's removed and running in limp mode (full rich pgmfi light on) and with the msd is passed with flying colors.

fortunately we no longer have emissions testing in florida, but if you are having trouble passing one try adding an MSD.

The multiple spark burns so much more efficiently that there is nothing left to cause you to fail.
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#5
cbstdscott

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Technically, you are not supposed to change stuff on the engine in California unless it has a "CARB" tag on it. This includes cold air intakes, exhaust manioflds.... anything.

And yes, they will look for that damn tag. On the other hand, they are not going to tear down your engine looking for stuff below the surface. So make sure your engine has the outward appearance of stock and/or use CARB approved stuff.

Scott
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#6
'85-SI

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And as a side note here...I did find that the hedman chikara header is Carb legal in CA with an official EO number...it is not stamped on the header but I have a copy of the EO from the air resource board that shows the chikara header as EO approved for CA. Also I found they are still available new and come with an CARB sticker...I think??? Has anyone bought a new one, did it come with a carb sticker? The guy I talked to on the phone at hedman said that they do, and if you have a hedder without a sticker, you can get another one with a receipt??? I'm a bit skeptical but I'm wondering if anybody knows if they come with a carb sticker...

Edited by '85-SI, 28 January 2009 - 03:53 PM.


#7
alexm86

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As far as motor work, the cam is really what will pass/fail you. The head work, header, intake, etc. do not really matter. I didn't pass w/a custom Jackson Racing cam (their fuel injected cam w/higher lift/longer duration on the exhaust for Nitrous. Generally, the more stock like the cam (like the Web cams stage 1 & 2 - which have had the same mild profile for at least 15 years), the more likely it is to pass smog. Most cam makers now know what lobe separation angle/other specs will cause you to pass/fail smog at the tail pipe and can grind you one accordingly or you can just put your stock cam in once every two years for the test. A milled & ported head does not matter that much either as evidenced by Madkore, Scott and me. I passed w/out a cam gear so the cam timing was retarded, but the timing was stock. I remember Endyn saying a long time ago, that really high compression (like 12:1+) causes one of the gasses tested (I forgot which one) to up a lot and you won't pass, but I haven't tested that personally.

MSD is always a good idea for smog. I passed easier then when I ran a Jacobs Ignition when I was always borderline. I had the best results using the stock heat range of plugs. I failed using NGK 7's and 8's. BTW, I passed w/a 2 1/2" high flow Carsound/Magnaflow cat too.

Hope this helps.

#8
'85-SI

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Is .040 mill safe enough for the clearances and about what does that put the compression at? Or should I go less?

Edited by '85-SI, 28 January 2009 - 07:14 PM.


#9
cbstdscott

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QUOTE ('85-SI @ Jan 28 2009, 04:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Is .040 mill safe enough for the clearances and about what does that put the compression at? Or should I go less?


.040" (1mm) is the recommended limit for shaving the head. Someone else may have the exact numbers but IIRC, the .040" shave gets you up from 8.5:1 to about 9.2 or so. Using a copper head gasket from a D16A1 requires a small amount of modification to clear all of the coolant and oil galleries, but it can get you a little more compression as well.

Shaving the head changes the head height and in turn the relationship of the cam to the crank (trust me on this one). Your engine will run a lot better with an adjustable cam gear advanced 4 degrees after the shave.

Just do not be too proud of that cam gear and leave the plastic cover off of the cam gear. The smog guys will fail you for it.

Also I have found that an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure guage and an Air/Fuel ratio meter are invaluable tuning tools. For smog check, I back off the fuel pressure for a leaner (cleaner) mixture.
But be sure to disgusie your adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the smog guy will fail you for that as well.

Scott

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#10
alexm86

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QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Jan 28 2009, 04:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Using a copper head gasket from a D16A1 requires a small amount of modification to clear all of the coolant and oil galleries, but it can get you a little more compression as well.


Copper head gaskets suck on street cars and will leak coolant and oil on you even if you have your block or head o-ringed for it. Ask Sawchuk about his experience. Also, SCE, who makes copper gaskets, told me I would have to re-torque my cylinder head "once a week" if I was going to use it on a street car. So don't use one.

#11
cbstdscott

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QUOTE (alexm86 @ Jan 28 2009, 06:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
[u][b]Copper head gaskets suck on street cars



Good thing I never used one. blink.gif
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#12
RARECRX

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If you seem to not be able to pass with a cam on several attempts & tuning.. Swap it back out for the stock one.. simple. I would not go .larger than .040 on the milling. I had my head milled that and then my block decked , EVERY time I missed a gear/over-revved it was bent valve city. It sucked, but it was FAST.

I suggest with all of your Newfound power, invest in a clutch. That is my problem as of now. Addition of a cam,headers,exhaust,milling etc. will eat the used oem clutch in a heartbeat.