16 replies to this topic

[wyclefcupcake]

ok hey i have 17" wheels on my crx. IT WAS A LOT OF WORK. I MEAN SERIOUSLY AN INSANE AMOUNT OF WORK IT REALLY WASNT WORTH IT!!!!!!!1

HERE IS WHAT YOU WILL HAVE TO DO, JUST TO GET 17"'S ON YOUR CAR

1) you are going to have to take out the stock wheel studs and get much longer ones. This sucks and its a lot of work. You will have to find longer studs at an advance auto parts and they probably dont have 16 long studs just sitting around. They will have to order them from another store and you will have to wait to get them like i did.

EDIT!!!
1 AND HALF) ok you will most likely need to get a new set of wheel lug nuts to put on your car. You can get a special set of tuner lug nuts which isnt too expensive, but its still money down the drain. the nice part is that you can only remove these lug nuts with the special "key" that comes with the lug nuts. Oh, and you will also probably want to tighten these lug nuts on the wheels tighter than stock.

If you keep your stock wheel studs, expect to only get a few threads of screw to hold your lug nuts on. and to me thats really scary.

2) you will most likely need to get wheel spacers, of 2 different witdths to keep your tires from rubbing on the inside of your car when you turn sharply. This sucks because its trial and error until you figure out the exact width that you need to keep the wheels so they arent sticking out too far and they arent in too far. I had to have 2 different wheel spacers on the front of my car and then one on the back of my car (until i did the rear disc brake swap bcs that pushes your wheel out slightly)

3)You will need to raise the front of your car cranking on the torsion bars. If you dont and you hit a bump, your tires are going to dig into the body and then have fun you just broke your fenders.

4) you will need to get spring blocks for the rear to jack the car up so that when you hit bumps your rear wheel wells wont dig into the tires. OR you can get 86-89 acura integra springs like i have to jack the back up a couple inches so that you dont have to deal with spring blocks. This is not a super quick job though and takes more time.

5)Once you stiffen up your suspension like this its going to kill your shocks. you are probably going to need new shocks (i got the tokico illumina's for ~$400). so be ready to drop even more money just to be able to ride in your car.

6)eventually your torsion bars will show their age and you will need to get new ones. thats where i'm at now.

my advice::: dont get anything bigger than 16" wheels and make sure they are less than 7" wide!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 7"wide sucks it doesnt fit nicely underneath your wheel wells. if i could find 16"X6" wheels that would be a dream come true for me but the rims i wanted didnt come in 16"'s.

if anyone else wants to add to this please do, but this just shows that it was a ton of work just to get this done.

if anyone knows the exact bolt length and witdh and whatever of the stock bolts vs the ones you will need could you please post this here? also if anyone else has anything to add to this, that would be great. I'm just trying to save everyone from the headache i went through to get 17"s on my car.

Edited by wyclefcupcake, 11 September 2006 - 01:47 PM.

[mysql]

yeah i think i'll stay with my 15s lol

[Airgazm86]

Instead of using longer studs and wheel spacers, simply use a different offset wheel. I have 17x7's with a +42 offset on my 3G and they fit nicely after removing the rear fender lips. They rub a little in the front when turned lock to lock, but nothing major. I agree that a 16 or 17-inch x 6 or 6.5" wheel would be perfect.

[wyclefcupcake]

Instead of using longer studs and wheel spacers, simply use a different offset wheel.     I have 17x7's with a +42 offset on my 3G and they fit nicely after removing the rear fender lips.  They rub a little in the front when turned lock to lock, but nothing major.  I agree that a 16 or 17-inch x 6 or 6.5" wheel would be perfect.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

yah you can use different offset as well. I think my offset is close to yours, and i didnt want to have any rubbing or have to remove any fenders/lips/ etc.

Oh i forgot to mention that if you get different wheels you will also most likely need different wheel lug nuts. Yes you will need to get a kit of special wheel lug nuts that fit your new wheel studs. thats what i had to do.

I liked the longer wheel studs bcs it made me feel safer as well. With the new wheels and the stock studs, you only had a few threads of screw to hang onto, and for me that was scaaaaaaaaaary.

so expect to spend a lot of $$$$$$$$$$ if you want to get 17's on your 1st gen and then spend a lot more time as well.

[lxndr]

All I had to do was roll the rear wheel wells and bolt the wheels on. I even lowered the car an inch so it wouldn't look like a chuck wagon. With stock suspension, the fronts would rub a little under hard turning but never had a problem with the rear (after rolling the wells). It all depends on the offset of the wheel.



BTW, I now have 15x7 Kosei K1's on the car.

Edited by lxndr, 11 September 2006 - 02:18 PM.

[slavteren]

hmm, i have had no problems with mine.. the 1g has 215/40-17's on, lowered about 40mm and only roled the rear fenders..

the 3g has 205/40-17, and is very lowered. there has been donr some serious work to the wheelarches, but no welding.

both has a litle rubbing on full turning, but not more then you can live with.
i'm gonna rivit a aluminium plate where they rub to end the rust problems with it.

[ChrisF-dude]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That Civic hatch looks evil. I love it.

[slavteren]

That Civic hatch looks evil. I love it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

yeah, i really miss it. it's going through a major modification right now.

[hawk86]

i think it just matters what car you have isnt the si's wider than the other models

[wyclefcupcake]

i think it just matters what car you have isnt the si's wider than the other models

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

my car is an '85 crx si. i dont think they changed anything for the 86 or 87 years, but i really dont know for sure.

[slavteren]

2 things that are important are offset and tyre. 2 tyres in the same dimension, do not nessaserely be the same widt! this is due to that there is no official standard on how to messure the width of tyres, and the diff can actually be quite alot. for instance before racing the other weekend we measured the 2 wheels i was planing to run.
number one was a 175/50-13 and the 2. was a 195/50-15. when we measured the "width of road contact" (sorry, forgot the english word,,) they were both 185mm... i have had 195/50-15 tyres with only 175mm road contact... on the other side the front tyres on the civic is 205/40-17 and has 215mm road contact. it waries..7

[mordantly]

i have 1.5 drop springs in, and still have very minimal rub on my 87 si. enkei 16x7s +43mm wearing 215/40s. the stock lugs are plenty long for enkei rims. the rear lip will scrape if i bottom out or have a blown strut (a good way to tell), or slight rub on the spring upper retainer (pan hard throws axle in a 2 g turn). the front rubs barely in a full lock turn on either side. i have not modified the fenders any any way yet.

[Primerk5]

Someone brought this back from the dead.

[gunslinger]

I think I will go with a 16 since I saw some at pep boys for $75 a peice and there pretty nice looking rims But what size of tire should I get?

[WOLFCRX]

Not by choice I have 16"(picked these rims up in a trade), I had to roll the back fenders and everything rolls smoth with no rubs on 205/40/16. These had 215/40/16 on them when I got them and rubbed on the inside wheel whale and the out side even with the fenders roled. I don't recomend 16", the ride is rough and even with the same brand tire that I had on my 15" I feel like the 16" loose traction quicker in the corners.