Dirtcircle86

And I can't seem to get the link to work.  Anyway, it looks pretty clean

112,000 miles.  Polished crank and new bearings. I've never ran it or had the head off.  I pulled the crank for the machine shop to use to balance my cut flywheel and had him check and polish it while it was there.  It had a .0045 main wobble (bent?) so mains are .010 under.  I have not put the crank back in but can/will.  I'd like to get $250 for it.  I do have the guage cluster from the donor car it came from to prove the mileage.  It's the cluster in my car now. 

 

It's for sale locally, with the race car, as a package. 

I wasn't sure what to call this thread to get attention. It may not anyway. I seem to be on the road less traveled.

My recent mounting of an H T/B to a ported A1 manifold, poses some interesting questions. All ports have been epoxied and smoothed, including the IACV. I no longer have an external MAP sensor either (not that it allows air in but I have zero vacuum hoses). The current set up required opening the butterfly and re-adjusting the TPS to match, in order to get enough air to idle.

I'm curious if anyone would have a suggestion on how big af a hole or holes to drill into the butterfly so I can leave it shut, or close to it, and not have to adjust the TPS as much. I'm thinking a pair of 1/8" holes to start with. I don't think that will be enough but obviously don't want to go too big.

I'm hoping the added air will show on the wideband and require more fuel pressure to be in the same zone. If it does, I know I'm making more power. Right?

I wasn't sure what to call this thread to get attention. It may not anyway. I seem to be on the road less traveled.

My recent mounting of an H T/B to a ported A1 manifold, poses some interesting questions. All ports have been epoxied and smoothed, including the IACV. I no longer have an external MAP sensor either (not that it allows air in but I have zero vacuum hoses). The current set up required opening the butterfly and re-adjusting the TPS to match, in order to get enough air to idle.

I'm curious if anyone would have a suggestion on how big af a hole or holes to drill into the butterfly so I can leave it shut, or close to it, and not have to adjust the TPS as much. I'm thinking a pair of 1/8" holes to start with. I don't think that will be enough but obviously don't want to go too big.

I'm hoping the added air will show on the wideband and require more fuel pressure to be in the same zone. If it does, I know I'm making more power. Right?

I almost muddied Andies roll stiffness thread even further and decided not to.

There are lots of opinions about how to do this and I know my situation is different than most here (all). So I'm curious how you do it.

It's a joke amongst several guys that I race against that fwd racing is "staying on the gas until you think you're gonna crash, then brake and turn left." This is so true it isn't funny. Unlike my seasoned compadres, I let off (usually) a full car length earlier than they do. Going in, their rev limiter is popping a car length past, they brake while I have gotten off the brake and am easing back into the gas. Mid turn we are even again but I have maintained more momentum and ease past. On exit, I'm a car length ahead, making up two lengths.

Comparing a corner to a clock from 3:00 to 9:00, counterclockwise, I brake hard just prior to 3:00 and am getting sideways by 2:00. Immediately I am back on the gas to keep the front in the front. My setup is borderline power on oversteer but only as I feather the throttle. I easily transition the oversteer to under steer with too much throttle, essentially steering with throttle. My goal is to keep raising the throttle position occurrence of under steer. Which should be faster.

Honestly, I think some mid to exit trail braking under throttle would make me much faster but I can't get my left foot to cooperate. It's already hairy enough without adding something else to think about but it should become second nature if I could start the habit. My brain thinks my left foot is for the clutch and should never go near the other two pedals.

I'll understand if no one bites.