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Radiator Replacement


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#1
kenny86si

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ok so to swap in a new radiator (current one has a leak in the middle) I dont have to pull the front header panel right? I really do not want to pull it. Also do I have to remove my header? I dont remember having to do that last time but the manuel says you may and after looking its really close. and lastly she is very close to the ac compressor as well. will it shift enough to clear that thing? Looking for someone who has recently done the removal or remembers the process. Thanks in advance.

#2
pvbcrx

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I replaced my radiator last year, and it successfully cleared the header. It is close, so be careful to not bonk the fins. Can't vouch for the A/C compressor since mine was removed at the time.

My header panel also happened to be off (replaced with a one-piece hood), but I doubt it's necessary to pull it. Perhaps overkill, but one thing you may want to consider pulling is the bumper. It's surprisingly easy to remove, and will give you a great view of all the stuff you'll be working on. Other minor items I recall: the sheet metal panel aft of the lower radiator support, hood latch, vertical support, engine ground wire. I just went to town and unbolted everything in the vicinity, to make it easier to jockey the radiator in and out.

#3
mesean13

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My 87' Civic radiator started leaking about 2 weeks ago and I use my car to drive 30 miles to work everyday on the Autobahn. I finally got my radiator that I ordered from Radiator barn this past weekend. They have good prices and good shipping(highly recommended for stock replacement).
This is what my radiator looked like everyday after driving home from work. Not fun putting coolant in everyday. In the 2nd picture you can see how 20 years can make these a little brittle.(It pulled out with no effort)


You can see here the difference between my original SI radiator on the left and the new 1.3 radiator on the right. It's a little bit more narrow, but cools like a champ at 100mph.

After looking at the removal possibilities, I decide that it would be easiest to remove it from the front by taking of the bumper and header panel.
First, I removed the corner lights and front insert by removing the 2 screws in each.

2nd, remove the header panel by removing the top bolts, the 2 bolts under it and don't forget the bolts where the corner lights go.(1 on each side)

Then remove the bumper by loosening the 2- 12 mm bolts that go up into the bumper from under the liscense plate area. Also remove any 10 mm bolts from underneath that hold the splash guards on. Once the bumper is off unplug the turn signal lights and put the bumper aside.

I then removed the entire hood latch assembly and vertical stabilizer and placed it to the side. I found it a little easier to work with the battery removed as well, so you might want to do that too. Once the radiator was loose, I simply lifted it out of the rubber feet and tilted it outward in front of the frame so I could drain it.(I don't have a basin and I was poor this weekend)Unplug the thermo-switch wires and disconnect the top hose and then the bottom. Lift the radiator out and swap out the parts to your new radiator.


If the fan looks a little funny to some of you, that's because when I swapped in my ZC I pulled the fan from a Euro crx since it had 5 blades. That was actually the hardest part. To mount the fan I had to do a little fabbing because the mounting points were not the same. As you can see here I had to bend the top mount point, Drill a hole for the one on the right and use a spacer, and the bottom one was the fun one. I ended up using an angled bracket out of my box-o-parts to mount it since I could not drill in the mounting area. It holds like a charm.


It fits great. Now reassemble everything and enjoy the comfort of a cool motor! biggrin.gif
Oh, and don't forget COOLANT!!!
Think before you speak, learn before you think, listen so that you may learn to think before speaking a bunch of shit!

No fried rice please!

#4
pvbcrx

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mesean13 - nice job on the pictures, I'm sure they will be of great help to the rpr community. The only real difference I see for 1G owners is the extra care needed around the pesky plastic header panel.

#5
kenny86si

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thanks for the writeup and pics. It looks good. If I didnt have my condensor, I would definately pull her from the front. BUt shell probably have to come out from the bottom like the manual says. Ill have to look into that radiator dealer your talking about to. THanks again.
kenny

#6
kenny86si

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yeah that is a good company. free shipping. $119 to the door. Ive checked here and found all around $150. Not bad at all. Thanks

#7
ADDvanced

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Anyone have these photos?


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#8
CSPCRX

What are you looking for exactly from the photos?


Victor
86 B-Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack
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#9
ADDvanced

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Trying to figure out if you pull the header panel off and remove from the front, or somehow snake it in front of the engine?  Looks like there is no room to do it that direction.


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#10
CSPCRX

I have replaced them a few times and never removed the header panel.  I always pulled the fans off and/or the header then lifted it out.


Victor
86 B-Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack
07 Harley FXST Softail
12 Audi S4

#11
ADDvanced

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Soooooooo I figured it out.   Radiator cap.   Lol.


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#12
CSPCRX

LOL!  Glad you got it!


Victor
86 B-Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack
07 Harley FXST Softail
12 Audi S4