Jump to content




Update 2024: 17th Annual Road Trip 1987 Honda Crx - Dallas To Panama


  • You cannot reply to this topic
175 replies to this topic

#136
rufusbob

  • Slowpoke
  • PipPip
    • Group: Members
    • Location:Central North Carolina
    • Drives: 2016 Accord, ‘87 CRX Si (2 - neither running), ‘60’s Vettes (2), ‘67 911S, '70 914-6, '95 F150.
    Garage View Garage
Your car’s amazing, Grease!
Bob

#137
greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's

  • Leadfoot
  • PipPipPipPipPip
    • Group: 2018 Contributor
    • Location:Foreign national in TX
    • Drives: 9 crx's: #1 228k 87si beater, #2 concours 25K, #3 108K 87si, #4 98K parts car, #5 213K 87si parts car, #6 84 straman, #7 86si 150k #8 67k parts #9 129K si for straman conversion

Bob,   I keep coming across the pix of ur black crx.  Love to see that baby on the road.   Seems like anything on wheels rolling out of Japan in the 80’s was amazing!  We’re just lucky enough to drive them

 

 

UPCOMING 15TH ANNUAL ROAD TRIP 2023: DALLAS TO DESTIN

 

 

Looks like this trip will be in a month or so.  More to come.  My brother is snow birding mid winter again.

 

 

 

MadMax and I were sorting through exhaust parts a while ago.  I had a set of exhaust tips I got w a muffler I installed back in 1993.   That muffler rusted through a few years later.  Reused the tips.  After that muffler rusted through, I tossed the old muffler in the attic.  MadMax wanted them for his car.   I thought they’d look better back on my car - lol.    So a guy on eBay was selling a set just like the ones I had from 1993.   Got me wondering if I could find some in better condition.   I came across these.  Just came in this morning.  They’re a near perfect match to the ones from 1993

 

 

52580408464_d606fae935_c.jpg​

 

 

52579674552_31b96c9971_c.jpg​

 

The set on the left are the aftermarket from 1993.   The 2 sets to the right are Honda NOS.  The ones in the center I got new from Cypress

Most guys are sporting larger engines and larger pipes.   There’s a lot more options for you.   I couldn’t find much for 1.5” stock pipes.   There’s an outfit out of Cypress selling these.   Google “150188 SET” if ur interested in these.   The Cypress company had them for 65 Euros.   They have them on eBay for $75


Keepin' it OEM

#138
greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's

  • Leadfoot
  • PipPipPipPipPip
    • Group: 2018 Contributor
    • Location:Foreign national in TX
    • Drives: 9 crx's: #1 228k 87si beater, #2 concours 25K, #3 108K 87si, #4 98K parts car, #5 213K 87si parts car, #6 84 straman, #7 86si 150k #8 67k parts #9 129K si for straman conversion

Prepping for the 15th annual road trip.   Dallas to Destin…..

 

52674105768_60a706b97a_c.jpg

 

And broke off a lug nut.   Was taking tires off for a rebalance.   I must have cross threaded w my cordless drill last time I took them off/on.  I just let it snap.   I wanted to replace the bearings anyway

 

52674111908_f14a6d3638_c.jpg

Pulled both knuckles and pressed out the bearings.  Able to do w harbor freight press and oversized sockets.  No special tools needed

 

 

52674049350_98fb3ce189_c.jpg

Never did this before.  Practiced on crx#9’s knuckle damaged by an accident.  Bent. Parts no good (see upper right where knuckle is broken out at strut mount - strong impact).  Salvaged the lugs.   My original hub lower left corner, I had broken off those Phillips screws securing the rotor to the hub years ago.   Ceased from years of salt corrosion.   Drill out the old, retapped and grabbed some good ones from a previously parted car.   Nice to have this feature back!

 

52673900649_7b5ea61a92_c.jpg

Bearing on left is my 287k original. Grease still sticky.  Right is the 129k, looks even better.  My 287k hubs spun smooth a reasonably quiet.   I wanted to replace just because I didn’t know condition due to 36 yrs old.  And my camber is in spec, but a little on the high side.  Appears these bearing could have stayed in longer.  I’ll recheck camber, and I’ll know.   IMO, I wouldn’t bother replacing bearing until after 200k if original based on the 129k bearing.   MadMax’s car has 108k, I’m leaving those bearings in play.   Daily drivers, not racers….

 

Reinstalled Natchi bearings, Japan.

 

 

52674109663_c417697a85_c.jpg

 

it’s been a few years since last brake bleeding.  My Ebrake didn’t fully engage, brakes were a little weak, and w all the city driving, I wanted to remove the Honda NOS front pads and save for later.

 

I removed the front pads and replaced w acdelco ceramics.  I had brag drag noise several years ago.  I had installed the NOS pads and rotors back then.  Has been quiet ever since.   But noticed heavy dusting on my rims.  And rotors remained smooth.   From what I’ve read, it appears Honda used organic pads for our cars.   I selected ceramics to keep noise down and to be gentle on my rotors.  Seems fine for how I drive.  I always grease the slider pins on brake jobs.  And flush the caliper chamber w brake cleaner to remove sediment about every 10yrs

 

Pix above noted one piston cup bag an to seep.  I disassemble the wheel cylinders on every brake job to remove the sediment/moisture there.   I’ve learned from storing these cars over the decades, water accumulates there, pits out the cylinder bore.   This is a preventative measure.  Replaced the piston cups w NOS.

 

52674047165_48ba36d85f_c.jpg

 

Cylinder bores clean, no pitting.  These are Honda nos installed a while back.  Lightly sanded w 600 grit

 

 

52673897784_0941e69920_c.jpg

 

Odd here.  Corrosion forming on both R/L upper pistons ( left upper piston in above pix).  Hondas chrome plating failing.  They dragged a little.  It’s outside the fluid area.  Somehow, corrosion/condensate forms here.   Sanded and swapped top to bottom to even wear.  Applied light coat of grease to the outer portion of the pistons to see if I can keep the corrosion out in the future

 

52674044985_d73c08c475_c.jpg
 

The Ebrake and soft braking issue was caused by my screw up.  This pix shows proper configuration of the spring on the adjuster.  I had placed the spring outside the adjuster where the ball point pen is touching.  My shoes never adjusted to compensate for the wear.   I pulled stock springs to ensure I had them on the correct sides R/L — idiot proof.   After car was back together, adjust Ebrake and brake system again works awesome.

 

52673118867_1d866641b9_c.jpg

 

popped on my new tips w a block of wood and a mallet

 

 

52673119552_a69c8f0e47_c.jpg

 

Replaced my 30yr old steering wheel cover.  It began tearing.   I originally installed a cheap Chinese knock off (white box to far right).  But the grip is not sticky.   I searched eBay and found my original old covers.  “Superior Super Sport Grip” from the 80/90’s - box far left.   Still have the Chinese on at the moment.  The super grip is 3.5” wide.  Pretty much wraps all the way around the stock wheel.  Maybe 1/3” space.   The regular sport grips are 3”.   I recommend the “supers”, as they wrap more the the wheel.  Great fit for our 14” stock wheel

 

 

Leaving shortly for Florida.  Update soon.
 

car drives perfectly!


Keepin' it OEM

#139
CSPCRX

Great information as always.  I see a clamp on the pads, is that to hold them in while you install the springs?

 

I need to dig into the rears on the 85, one drags.  Drums a just not fun to play with, disks are so much easier!


Victor
86 K24 Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack

85 CRX DX totally original
07 Harley FXST Softail

2021 Tacoma Tow/Daily


#140
greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's

  • Leadfoot
  • PipPipPipPipPip
    • Group: 2018 Contributor
    • Location:Foreign national in TX
    • Drives: 9 crx's: #1 228k 87si beater, #2 concours 25K, #3 108K 87si, #4 98K parts car, #5 213K 87si parts car, #6 84 straman, #7 86si 150k #8 67k parts #9 129K si for straman conversion

CSP,  yes. Wood clamps to hold shoes together.  Always a pita.  I stumbled across a YouTube vid looking for Honda spring placement last week.  A guy did this so I stole the idea.   Much easier 

 

My blower low speed fan switch stopped working after I pulled the dash and replaced the fuel lines.   Figured it was a connector, switch or something.

 

52681711855_cfb1dca37f_c.jpg

I took apart a climate control I pulled from a junkie a while back.  Was going to use it as a swap out to test mine.  Took the fan switch apart and it was heavily used. This switch didn’t realiably make continuity actuating between different fans speeds.  So I took it apart.  Since these components appear more worn than I like, I went to my original 287k switch.  It tested fine

 

52681566409_5886a811fe_c.jpg

I cleaned up the junkyard part, sanded w 600 grit.  See upper right.   Looks great (saving as a spare).  Note, there’s a small ball bearing opposite the copper.  Performs the detention function.  Don’t lose it.  Also note from the first pix, the 4 copper discs are grooved severely.  Bottom left is my 287k switch.  Much cleaner.  I sanded/cleaned the 287k part.  Tested it and the supply line to the blower.  All worked

 

52681779868_edda7e4c22_c.jpg

Pulled the blower resistor and found the low speed resistance coil broken.  See end of ball point pen tip

 

52681281046_291a17c8a3_z.jpg

I didn’t have spares in stock.  Pulled resistors out of the blower boxes from crx#5&9 I had parted out years ago.  Both of those had broken coils as well.  Honda potted the coils to insulate the vibration.  The potting is shot and falling off.  Some of the wires looked really corroded and thin.  Appears to just be a part that fails over time and needs replacing.   I pulled the resistor out of madmax, that one worked.  I found that Standard makes them. P/n ru-435.  Can be found for $25-43

 

i need to stock up on these.  W so many of my used parts failed, proof enough.  Suspect part for the rest of you to know about.


Keepin' it OEM

#141
CSPCRX

Outstanding work and documentation 


Victor
86 K24 Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack

85 CRX DX totally original
07 Harley FXST Softail

2021 Tacoma Tow/Daily


#142
greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's

  • Leadfoot
  • PipPipPipPipPip
    • Group: 2018 Contributor
    • Location:Foreign national in TX
    • Drives: 9 crx's: #1 228k 87si beater, #2 concours 25K, #3 108K 87si, #4 98K parts car, #5 213K 87si parts car, #6 84 straman, #7 86si 150k #8 67k parts #9 129K si for straman conversion

15th ANNUAL ROAD TRIP:  DALLAS to DESTIN

 

 

52673619016_3682d19ddb_c.jpg

 

Clocked 2020 miles.  Purred like a kitten.  Most expensive gas $3.55, cheapest $2.78.  No issues

 

Had some interesting things going on in Louisiana 

 

52674057130_3134940ec5_c.jpg
 

saw 50+ deer driving through the night.  All feeding.  Luckily, they stayed off the roads

 

A pocket rocket speeds past me around 1:30am.  Then 6 cops cars zoom by.  I never saw them again.  A little more action on the road than usual

 

 

 

Crashed at a gas station for a few hours sleep, and saw this the next morning….

 

52674114038_82f2afc8aa_c.jpg

 

The vehicles were still smoldering

 

 

52673614431_c88d607325_c.jpg
 

Visited the USS Alabama

 

52673906164_ba694053f2_c.jpg

 

Hung out, fished, drank, walked the beaches, ate shrimp.   I really don’t feel this small driving this car.   It’s a midget when compared newer trucks.

 

Drove up and down 30a between Panama City and Destin.  Cool shoreline towns.  Property is so close together, couldn’t get a shot w the car on the ocean.

 

 

52673619646_9692e46e67_c.jpg

Im loving the sylvania silver stars.  Ride back home

 

 

52673123512_3dec7148d9_c.jpg

 

All in all, a great trip

 

Looking like another Denver trip in a month or 2…..

 

Victor, I didn’t realize that part breaks so easily.  Glad we can still get them.


Keepin' it OEM

#143
CSPCRX

It’s funny when I drive the 85 around everything feels huge next to me!  


Victor
86 K24 Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack

85 CRX DX totally original
07 Harley FXST Softail

2021 Tacoma Tow/Daily


#144
greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's

  • Leadfoot
  • PipPipPipPipPip
    • Group: 2018 Contributor
    • Location:Foreign national in TX
    • Drives: 9 crx's: #1 228k 87si beater, #2 concours 25K, #3 108K 87si, #4 98K parts car, #5 213K 87si parts car, #6 84 straman, #7 86si 150k #8 67k parts #9 129K si for straman conversion

I mentioned a few years ago I had replaced the drivers side seat belt assy.   Stopped retracting.   Came across it while cleaning/sorting parts in attic.  Brain fart to see if I could fix it

 

52705807425_8d11b9eef9_c.jpg

 

The spring jammed.  It split and stuck were the pen points.   I examined this one.  Thinking the drivers side gets the most use.  Wondered if I could use a spring from a passenger side w less use (longer future life).

 

52704869787_4628d25148_c.jpg

Realizing a good spring assy will uncoil as soon as you take it apart, I drilled holes in the cover.  Used needle nose to hold the green spool from turning.

 

52704871087_19b2a92537_c.jpg

Used needle nose vise grips to secure the spring in place.  Removed the pliers.

 

52705808645_efdb315ab8_c.jpg

I took the passenger spring out of crx#5 w high mileage, inverted it, reinstalled into drivers of crx#1.  The spring/drum assy are identical for both r & l.  Needed 3 vise grips to remove and swap the assy from passenger to drivers comfortably w/o unwinding them in my face.

 

52704873777_b9acf60659_c.jpg

it worked.  My original crx #1 seatbelt is back in operation.  Going to reinstall to the car this weekend,  put black tape over the hole I made into the recoil case to keep it clean.  I see no way I’ve jeopardized the safe operation of this assy.  I’d assume drivers will break first as they are used the most.  Grab a spare passenger unit from a junkie cheap next time you see one for $10.  eBay seems to be $65-100 ea shipped after tax.  Culled through the assemblies and found the set to MadMax’s car.  Selected 2 of the best sets for my show car rebuilds. Others will be for sustainment repairs


Keepin' it OEM

#145
letank


52681281046_291a17c8a3_z.jpg

I didn’t have spares in stock.  Pulled resistors out of the blower boxes from crx#5&9 I had parted out years ago.  Both of those had broken coils as well.  Honda potted the coils to insulate the vibration.  The potting is shot and falling off.  Some of the wires looked really corroded and thin.  Appears to just be a part that fails over time and needs replacing.   I pulled the resistor out of madmax, that one worked.  I found that Standard makes them. P/n ru-435.  Can be found for $25-43

 

i need to stock up on these.  W so many of my used parts failed, proof enough.  Suspect part for the rest of you to know about.

A few years ago you could still buy the resistor... when my fan speed failed, always the low speed, I was lucky to find a low mileage with a good resistor, so I never bothered to check hondaparts... funny as well that my seat belt also shriveled, the canvas, same civic at the junkyard got me a nice Driver and passenger belts.

 

Note: some later honda have a solid state resistor for the fan, I will have to look in my history to see if I can find any refnum, got it 2002-2007, civic , crv , accord, odyssey, looks very similar, same shape of the unit same connector on dabay

 

On the jeep, the spring broke, you can buy springs on dabay, there are different size, a bit tricky, never found the right size, the junkyard provided spares.

 

Thank you for the posts.... sylvania silver star... checking for headlight bulbs was the reason for my visit.... I bought some Hella 9004 HB1 plus, but they were non operational from the get go...  In fact this is the second lightbulb purchase from amazunk that was a dud.



#146
greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's

  • Leadfoot
  • PipPipPipPipPip
    • Group: 2018 Contributor
    • Location:Foreign national in TX
    • Drives: 9 crx's: #1 228k 87si beater, #2 concours 25K, #3 108K 87si, #4 98K parts car, #5 213K 87si parts car, #6 84 straman, #7 86si 150k #8 67k parts #9 129K si for straman conversion

Letank,

 

thnx for resistor info.   Guess I was lucky to go 36 years.  Lol.     I did see the SS ones when I was searching.   Rock Auto has our version for magnitudes cheaper than Amazon 

 

Here’s some headlight shots I took during my Florida trip last month.  I realized I didn’t get all three most used configurations.    Main and fogger bulbs  are silver star.  I got them bc of a rating table/data sheet someone posted to the web.   I didn’t try anything else.   Was so pleased w these, I stopped looking.  I didn’t bother w led’s.  I believe the halogen filament is positioned perfectly for our head light reflectors.  And led would just scatter the light. Another issue, I was trying to weed out the snake oil crap.  I bought these at Walmart for about $50 a set.  Felt a decent price.  I’m sure these aren’t knock-offs either.   I don’t buy electronics from Amazon or eBay.

 

I recommend to get a set.   If you like them, buy a spare for the glove box.  I had one go out in a year.  Longevity eems to be biggest complaint when I reviewed them via Amazon 

 

It’s hard to compare w pix.   Black asphalt vs light concrete throw off the effect.   Can definitely tell when a modern HID car comes up from behind.  Seem far better than the other halogen cars I cross on the highway.

 

52725830450_452141f5e9_c.jpg

Regular beams

 

52725672729_1c0fe6e7a7_c.jpg

Low beams w the GM foggers.   I have the foggers adjusted a little high.  I really like the side to side lighting.  Really helps to catch deer down in the ditches

 

 

52725418376_a14eac8f37_c.jpg

high beams w foggers.  This ended my search.  Just love them.   I could spot the deer on the sides of the road w enough time to stop the car in time.   Much better at picking up that black tire chunk off a semi before my front spoiler gets ripped off.  The high beams just shoot that light down the road

 

I have a hunch our alternators are a little under designed for our cars.  Modern stereo, then add foggers, I think ur maxed out w stock alt.  I only run the foggers while Highway driving.  I think city driving stresses the alt at idle while stopped at lights.  Low speed = less amp generation

 

The gm foggers are projectors w the metal half moon inside.  Acadia, outlook, traverse, camero, enclave, impala, equinox…….  Model year range 2008-2015 was what I was looking for at the junkies.  Wife has an Acadia, so I knew I liked them.  I did a jerry rig mount in my bumper.  (Post a few pages back)  Has a small hard glass lens.  Holds up to stone chips.  Saving my Honda Bosch foggers for a car show someday.  I’ll lose the hard to find covers or crack them w road rocks.  


Keepin' it OEM

#147
greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's

  • Leadfoot
  • PipPipPipPipPip
    • Group: 2018 Contributor
    • Location:Foreign national in TX
    • Drives: 9 crx's: #1 228k 87si beater, #2 concours 25K, #3 108K 87si, #4 98K parts car, #5 213K 87si parts car, #6 84 straman, #7 86si 150k #8 67k parts #9 129K si for straman conversion

MadMax and I drove to Austin for the 2023 Radwood meet.   480 miles.  Gas ranged $2.85-3.29.  Smooth drive as usual

 

52859361220_b5cd132618_c.jpg

 

52858972761_7060c11abe_c.jpg

 

First time the beaters been at a show.   Not show quality.   Pix better from a distance,..   lol

 

Met several people.  Mostly 2G owners.  Lots of good conversation w previous 1g owners

 

Radwood’s chill.  Great fit for my car.   Most Honda/Acura folks I chatted w kept their cars mostly original.  Their cars were much lower mileage.  Weren’t having issues getting parts to maintain their cars.  Common comment about their distributor.  Sound like the eat igniters.


Keepin' it OEM

#148
CSPCRX

Cool pics.  I know I was having issues back in the day with EW distributors failing.  Mostly remanufactured units.  I had one send parts out the side of the housing.


Victor
86 K24 Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack

85 CRX DX totally original
07 Harley FXST Softail

2021 Tacoma Tow/Daily


#149
greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's

  • Leadfoot
  • PipPipPipPipPip
    • Group: 2018 Contributor
    • Location:Foreign national in TX
    • Drives: 9 crx's: #1 228k 87si beater, #2 concours 25K, #3 108K 87si, #4 98K parts car, #5 213K 87si parts car, #6 84 straman, #7 86si 150k #8 67k parts #9 129K si for straman conversion

My cyclops brake light stopped working the other month.  Then rear wiper randomly runs by itself.  Time to fix the wire harness at the hatch hinge area again

 

52952079820_465b013c18_c.jpg

I had fixed this the first time about ten years ago.   Appears the wires yielded at the same bending point.  Common issue w most of us 1g’rs.

 

52951099267_fd174a796d_c.jpg

 

I recall I beefed up the wire size when I did the repair.  6 wires. Ranged from 18g-12g.  Fit very tight inside the rubber boot.   
 

 

52951699986_ab3a0bf394_c.jpg

 

I kept the wire size to 16g.   Made the repair whip 7” to have enough room to work with.   Impressive the rubber boot is still so pliable after 36 years.

 

 

It dawned on me to use barrel connectors next time.  I can prefab 7-12” whips for future repair as I know this will be a reoccurring problem.  Going to try this out on MadMax.  Would like to beef up the insulation thickness to make it last longer.  Thought about adding heat shrink to the area, but not a lot of room

 

 

 

Another issue I didn’t realize are aftermarket cyclops brake light bulbs melting the bulb holders.   I was looking for spare light bulbs to make a travel care kit for the beater.  Pulled bulbs out of my spare trunk lid cyclops assembly and noticed the black base plastic melting really bad at the bayonet mount.  This pix is from the beater.  Pen points to where the melt area is.  This example is pretty good.   Plan is to find lower wattage 921 bulbs to minimize heat

 

52952154363_b9676f6474_c.jpg

 

 

The last issue I’ve been having is loosing the black trim off my rear wiper arms.  Lost my first one 2 years ago.  Not sure how.   Then lost the second one this week when the rear wiper went crazy while shorting from the hatch wire issue

 

52951701426_41b8efa92b_c.jpgTop wiper arm is from the beater.  Arm linkage got hyper extended and popped off the bracket.   Bottom arm is the orientation it’s supposed to be.   I’m thinking I can drill out a rivet and add a screw-nut assembly.  Possibly making a stopper out of it.   Will post if I get to it….

 

Current mileage 292,400.  Did oil change and checked fluids/boots/seals.  All good


Keepin' it OEM

#150
CSPCRX

What do you think caused the breaks?


Victor
86 K24 Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack

85 CRX DX totally original
07 Harley FXST Softail

2021 Tacoma Tow/Daily