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Front Roll Stiffness - How Much Is Too Much?


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#16
Dirtcircle86

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I think we got off Andy's topic. 

 

 

So sideways is the prefered attitude through a low traction oval corner? In a FWD car?

Isn't that like taking a knife to a gun fight?

 Counterintuitive, I know...  Everything I've read on the subject agrees loose is fast.  Maybe the loose rear keeps the slip angle down on the front tires so they can accelerate more than turn?  I dont have a clue. 

 

Knife is winning..

 

Get into the corner, tap the brakes to shift weight forward, get back on the gas, hope for the best.

There is no limit to front roll stiffness in this scenario.

 

That's exactly how it's done.  And I agree. 



#17
rufusbob

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Quoting DirtCircle86: "Everything I've read on the subject agrees loose is fast."

 

Look at the cornering attitude of USAC sprint cars:  "Steady state" "power on" oversteer throughout the corner.

 

Not only is the lateral (cornering) force of the tires contributing to the overall cornering of the car, but a geometric "component" of thrust from the rear tires under power is also contributing....it's pointing a little towards the center of the turn rather than the direction the car's headed. 

 

Now picture the same thing w/FWD:  A perfect 4 wheel drift in a "tail out" attitude under power with the front wheels pointed more towards the center of the turn rather than "opposite lock" in the direction of travel..  If the driver can maintain this with power on, he's achieving the thing same as RWD sprint car driver.

 

My guess is this attitude is more tricky to maintain with FWD than RWD.  (RWD has throttle to control the rear and steering to control the front; FWD has both at the front, but only momentum....and maybe ?brakes or handbrake?....controlling the rear). I think the rear has to be "pitched out" enough on entering the turn to create the tail out attitude and then stabilized with just the right balance of throttle to maintain the tail out w/out spinning the car.  I surprised myself doing this once back in the early '90's on snow with my first CRX.  Practicing to be able to do it every time in a race on dirt is for you guys.....I'm too old. 

 

Bob 

 

EDIT above in bold / underline: w/out spinning the car......


Edited by rufusbob, 30 April 2015 - 10:59 PM.

Bob

#18
Dirtcircle86

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http://www.acura-leg...fwd-cars-62638/

 

This is decent reading too.  I typed a bunch of confused stuff about not understanding sway bars and springs but deleted it before someone called me an idiot..

 

EDIT:  Bob, that is probably the best description of how my car drives.  I never thought about puting it in words and would have done so poorly, I haven't tried.  Ass is slipping but I am still turning left and modulating throttle to keep it there.  As soon as the front begins to break loose, the ass is no longer slipping as much, and pushes on the front harder, compounding the problem. 



#19
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I've had the loose is fast experience, but on the local shortened course were the 'new' bit of track is slower speed and a couple of esses.  Having the rear loose through there is faster as the car rotates just enough to be in line for the next curve. Its a nice feeling getting that right.  Entry speed through there is down to about 60kph up to 100 kph at the end. There is a similar bit of esses on the long track, but getting loose through there is scarey as you are exiting at 140 kph.  Spun there several times.

 

A note on snap oversteer.  I had several times that happened, and thought I was just not good enough to catch it.  Then a race driver went out in the car and the same thing happened to him. Turned out to be binding D bushes on the rear antiroll bar.  They'd load up in the corner, not release out of the corner due to friction, then unload in a hurry and spear the rear out the other side. Grease on the bushes was my friend.


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#20
Andy69

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http://www.acura-leg...fwd-cars-62638/

 

This is decent reading too.  I typed a bunch of confused stuff about not understanding sway bars and springs but deleted it before someone called me an idiot..

 

EDIT:  Bob, that is probably the best description of how my car drives.  I never thought about puting it in words and would have done so poorly, I haven't tried.  Ass is slipping but I am still turning left and modulating throttle to keep it there.  As soon as the front begins to break loose, the ass is no longer slipping as much, and pushes on the front harder, compounding the problem. 

 

I'm understanding this a bit better.  The thread I posted challenges the assumptions in the thread you posted. 

 

From your thread:

 

HANDLING CHART

UNDERSTEER
Too large front bar vs rear sway bar
Too small front tires or narrow rim width
Heavy front weight bias
Narrow front track
Too stiff front springs
Low front tire pressure
Oversize rear tires
Steep roll axis

OVERSTEER
Too large rear vs front sway bar
Raised rear end
Undersized tires or narrow rims
Low rear tire pressure
Large rear overhang
Too stiff rear springs

 

All things I've seen regarding how to correct these conditions mention reducing roll stiffness.  It makes sense on it's face.  If you have understeer because your front has too much roll stiffness relative to the rear, the obvious solution is to reduce front roll stiffness and bring the car back into balance.  That seems to be why people say run a small front bar or don't run one at all.  But the other half of that equation is to increase rear roll stiffness.

 

For guys like us, we want grip.  More grip, and EVEN MORE grip.  As much grip as possible, because it makes us faster.  In light of this, if your car is out of balance and under/over steering, only one solution makes sense, and that's to INCREASE grip.  So if your car is understeering, it's because you have too much grip in the rear relative to the front, and to fix that you want more grip on the front, not less in the rear, because less grip makes you slower.  So, you put a big bar on the front, and it makes the car understeer, the solution is not to put a smaller bar on the front, but to increase the size of the rear bar.  This is what makes me question what seems to be the conventional wisdom that you should never have a big front bar.

 

So, having a large front bar is not necessarily a bad thing, provided you can balance the car with a proportionally large rear bar.

 

The idea in my link is to get the front to the point where it is achieving maximum grip, then balance the rear accordingly.  I like that idea :-)

 

So, increasing front roll stiffness, either via stiffer springs, shocks, or an ARB, will not necessarily induce understeer, as long as the rear roll stiffness is taken into account at the same time.  I went from 23.5 to 27 mm fronts, but also from 350 to 500 in the back.  The end result was the car was faster but still maintained the balance I had before (a slight tendency to oversteer).

 

I could probably go even stiffer, given that the sticky tires I have need more roll stiffness and I'm not seeing any funny wear patterns on the tires.

 

Also, more roll stiffness helps in autocross, given the quickness of the transitions.

 

The question still is, how to determine what level of front roll stiffness is optimal.  Tough to figure out through experimentation, given that many factors affect front grip.  Is the front sliding because because it has a hair too much stiffness or because the back end is not stiff enough?

 

I guess maybe a starting point for me is to buy a couple more sets of rear springs.  I'm at 500 now, so maybe 550 and 600, which will make the rear stiffer and move the car toward oversteer, and then, since I have room to adjust the fronts shocks stiffer (I'm already maxed out on the back), use that as a temporary way to balance the front and rear and as an indicator of how much stiffer the fronts need to be, and then up that stiffness with springs or an ARB.



#21
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My apologies, Andy if I'm hijacking your thread (again?) but your suspension tuning dilemma leads straight to a question I've had:

 

Does anyone make an ADJUSTABLE front sway bar for the 1G CRX? 

 

My street car has a second (aftermarket) sway bar both front and rear.  I dislike this for a number of reasons (weight, aerodynamics, etc.).  Just not a very elegant solution....especially considering the effort required to change the front bar out.

 

Bob 


Bob

#22
Andy69

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I've never seen one.  Seems to go along with the tendency to avoid front ARBs.



#23
Dirtcircle86

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Trial and error sucks.  But a necessary evil i guess. 

 

If it's easier (cheaper) to stiffen the rear I would go that route.  I think you only have one more front spring upgrade possible (31's) and they are expensive.  My fear of getting the front too stiff would be to run out of options to get the rear stiff enough.  There are plenty of rear spring options but I don't know enough about shocks to understand how much more shock it takes to keep up with a spring. 

 

I guess the sweet spot is to get all four to slip at the same time, and stay as close to that point as is possible, without going over?

 

What happens if you back off the front shocks?  Or turn up the rears?  Does the rear loosen up (more traction in the front)?  Is compression and rebound adjustable independantly?  Do you run the same tires on the rear as the front?  Too many questions..



#24
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Trial and error sucks.  But a necessary evil i guess. 

 

If it's easier (cheaper) to stiffen the rear I would go that route.  I think you only have one more front spring upgrade possible (31's) and they are expensive.  My fear of getting the front too stiff would be to run out of options to get the rear stiff enough.  There are plenty of rear spring options but I don't know enough about shocks to understand how much more shock it takes to keep up with a spring. 

 

I guess the sweet spot is to get all four to slip at the same time, and stay as close to that point as is possible, without going over?

 

What happens if you back off the front shocks?  Or turn up the rears?  Does the rear loosen up (more traction in the front)?  Is compression and rebound adjustable independantly?  Do you run the same tires on the rear as the front?  Too many questions..

 

I run the same wheels and tires front and back - 13x7 with 225/45/13 Z214s.

 

I don't think rear stiffness is a problem.  There are plenty of spring options available.  But I think I'm almost to the point where I need better dampers to handle stiffer springs.  Not sure the Tokicos can handle much more than they are right now.  They are single adjustable, with 5 settings.

 

I've experimented with the shock settings.  I had them at 1 in front - the softest - and the car was oversteering, so the front did not have enough roll stiffness wrt the rear.  Bumped them up to 2 for the second run group and dropped 1.2 seconds off my best, and got to the point where the limiting factor was the steering, not grip, but it was still oversteering in places.  I think I could comfortably go to 3 before seeing a performance drop.  Maybe even 4.  That tells me I could use more roll stiffness in the front, perhaps a bigger ARB (the wagon one, perhaps?).  The rear shocks are maxed out at 5, and I have the biggest ARB I've ever seen on the back, so springs are the way to go to increase roll stiffness in the rear.  Then I can play with the front shock settings to get the balance right.  Just keep bumping it up that way until  I start to get slower.



#25
cbstdscott

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TIGHT%20TURN_zpscdcr0rn8.jpeg

 

Me and the wife on a recon lap at the local autocross. 

Suspension:
Energy Suspension bushings 
Koni “Yellow” adjustable struts and shocks, custom valved, shortened
Ground Control rear coil-overs
Eibach rear springs, 350lbs
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Lightspeed Racing Panhard bar 
Lightspeed Racing Rear Sway Bar
CRX HF steering rack
Chedda J rear shock upper mounts
Rear Axle “Sway Bar” (internal torsion bar) removed.

Front strut tower, B pillar, C pillar, rear strut tower braces

 

Fender braces


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#26
Andy69

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what wheels/tires?



#27
cbstdscott

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Wheels and tires:
        
Rial “Basket Weave” 13x6 wheels, powder coated

Yokohama A048 185/60/R13 tires 


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#28
Andy69

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I think with the wheels/tires I'm running, that have more grip, I need more roll stiffness to take full advantage, which I would guess is why I've gotten faster after the changes.
 

What would happen if I ran the same size wheels and tires as you, I wonder?



#29
cbstdscott

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First, you have to keep the tires in contact with the road.


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#30
Andy69

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First, you have to keep the tires in contact with the road.

 

Lat fall, with the 23.5mm bars and 350lb springs, there was no rear wheel lift when i added the spoiler.

 

Switch to this spring, with 27mm bars and 500 lb springs, with a spoiler, there is wheel lift again.

 

Unfortunately our photographer was not there Sunday, so I can't see if upping the shock setting on the front changed that.