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Medieval-pro/tein Damper Driving Impressions And Kit Details


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#1
MrDisibility

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Thread home is here:
http://heeltoeauto.c...?num=1180828940


Ok, now for the juicy part! I am posting this on my own forum, as well as the RPR forum, to centralize official information without the clutter of conversation by posters. If you have questions or comments, post on the Redpepperracing.com thread. I will keep the Heeltoe forum updated with changes in the article.


Here we go. I am excited even now as I type this!!



Drumroll!!!!



My car at Tein for prototype install.



Yes, I got a new part as well: JDM Spec reflective panel wink.gif


Meet Our Hero: Nakai.


FRONT ADJUSTABLE DAMPER SET

Comparison of Koni Yellow, Medieval-Pro, and Honda/Showa dampers, side by side.


The dampers are laid out with the mounting dimples inline.
Regarding damper length -- We can clearly see, the Medieval-Pro and Koni dampers are shorter than the Showa units. The Konis here are just slightly shorter than the Medieval-Pros, however we have experienced issues with shortened Konis "topping out" rather than bottoming out when used at a reasonable street ride height. The Medieval-Pro dampers should not have this problem.
Regarding shaft and tube diameters -- Medieval-Pro dampers here have the greatest shaft diameter and case diameter. Pistion sizes are not known for all models, but we do know that the larger Medieval-Pro tubes will hold more fluid allowing for higher performance. Also, the increased diameters will make the Medieval-Pro units significantly stronger than the other parts. Refer to the following matrix for dimensions we measured.



Also note, the shaft is comparable length to the Koni damper, but has a lower mounting height. Supplied hardware is provided to attain stock mounting height, but should extreme lowering be desired an additional amount of travel is available with one washer and the spacer removed. Be aware that hood interference may occur.


#2
MrDisibility

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Front damper installed.


On the prototype version the brake line bracket was situated too high so we could not use it. However this issue has already been addressed and communicated with Japan. Brake line fitment will not be an issue on your dampers. We cannot guarantee fitments on Integra models. We recommend Integra customers install stainless braided or OEM replacement brake lines for an 84-87 Civic or CRX. Medieval-Pro intends to offer front and rear brake lines available individually in the near future.



The Medieval-Pro damper fits in the stock knuckle without modification and with plenty of clearance to the axle boot. Dimpling and dropping of the strut to achieve greater travel will not be possible, or necessary due to a shortened damper design.




The view from the top. All stock upper bushings and washer are used. New upper nut is provided. Cusco rigid upper pillow mounts are available separately, and Medieval-Pro is awaiting completion of a upper Caster/Camber plate prototype. Any upper mount which is compatible with stock will be compatible with the Medieval-Pro Damper Kit. Upper shaft stock diameter to allow for installation using stock sized components. Hood clearance is abundant. EDFC mounting is not available without significant hood clearance issues and a minimal amount of threads available; raising of hood with spacers may allow for fitment., and I am considering extending this shaft slightly to allow for EDFC install outside of the hood clearance issue. Custom upper pillow mounts would be needed for facilitate this. An option may be available if demand warrants it.


Front suspension at full droop. Tires are 195-50-15, wheels are 15x6 +38 offset.


Front Suspension with car on ground. 25mm Jackson Racing Torsion bars are used; Medieval-Pro 24.5mm torsion bars will be a very reasonable comparison to this setup. This height is attained by either adjusting torsion bars all the way down, with the adjusting nut on the last few threads of adjustment. OR, as I have done, file out the key-way in the torsion bar and re-index one spline, then adjust the tosion bar to just above the middle adjustment point. This method is much preferred to maxing out the stock adjustment. This adjustment yields slightly more than one-finger gap. The ability to go significantly lower is available.


If you wish to avoid re-indexing the torsion bar, or prefer a higher ride height, you may adjust the torsion bar nut higher to a safe limit, and this will yield an approximate 2-finger gap. Full images of the car will follow.

#3
MrDisibility

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REAR ADJUSTABLE DAMPER SET WITH ADJUSTABLE COILOVER SPRING

Comparison of Medieval-Pro Damper and coilover spring to Tokico Illumina Damper with Ground Control coilover spring.


Measurements were not taken here for lack of Koni comparison. We can see that the Medieval-Pro damper has noticeably shorter length and apparently larger shock shaft than our old standby.

The Ground Control kit utilizes an adjustable upper spring seat. The major problem with the Ground Control design is that it places the spring load on the upper shock mount. This area was not designed to handle this type of load. The Medieval-Pro kit uses the factory upper spring seats which make for a significantly more preferred base for carrying the load of the car.

Rear damper and coil-over spring with adjustable threaded perch.

The rear spring with this kit will be available with the customer's choice of rear spring rate. Our unique relationship and contract with Tein has allowed us to purchase damper kits with the linked sale of one pair of springs on the side without predetermined rates! We have done extensive test driving in both my CRX and a supporter's Integra and devised a spring rate recommendation chart which will help you know what springs will suit your needs ideally.

Adjusting collars are also places in a convenient location for manipulating. Tein's innovative spring perch rings allow for simple adjustment. They have identical diameters and the supplied wrenches are the same size. A unique lip on the collars makes it easy to position the wrenches and even allows the wrenches to remain in place when you let go of them to reposition your hands.


Rear spring seated in factory spring seat location using supplied spring seat adapter. OEM rubber upper spring isolator is required for installation. These are available from us if you need them for $15 a pair. Possible urethane bushing available at a later date.

On the prototype kit there is a clearance issue between the spring seat adapter and the shock body. Because the rear suspension in our car moves laterally through it's stroke, the shock does not stay centered in the adapter. If an adjustable panhard bar is not used to center the axle after lowering the car, contact is likely. We can addressed this issue in 3 ways.
#1, get an adjustable panhard bar and center the axle. I have one, and I have no issues at all. Medieval-Pro will be releasing one very soon with a range of end-bushing option.
#2, the production version of the kit will feature a spring seat adapter that allows for clearance for the shock by locating the spring on the outside diameter of the spring rather than the inside diameter. The only possible negative is that higher rate springs will have a larger coil diameter with the same ID. This means that varying spring rates will all have a clearance allowing the spring to move if fully dropped. It would not fall out or come loose, but they would have more wiggle room than originally designed.
#3, you may option a tapered rear spring with your kit, which will eliminate the need for a rear spring seat adapter altogether. The top of the spring would fit in the factory rubber isolator, and the bottom will fit the coilover. However, this taper spring is available in fewer rate options than the straight spring supplied with the kit.
The issue is guaranteed to be resolved in production parts that you all will get, since #2 is already decided for you. We strongly recommend an adjustable panhard bar for this kit as well, although one is not critically needed to install the parts. I expect that few, or no, customers will go with #3, but it is a viable solution.

View from the top. The damper shaft extends well above the bushing washer. Knurled knob allows for 16 levels of adjustment. Compression and rebound are adjusted together. Top of shaft features an 8mm squared-off wrench-hold point to aid in tightening of the top nut. Factory upper bushings are used. Urethane bushings available separately. Estimated cost is $30 a set (rear only).


#4
MrDisibility

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Rear suspension at full droop.


Rear Suspension on the ground, as adjusted with the rear coilovers adjusted 2.5" from the bottom of the threaded section of the damper. This adjustment yields slightly more than one-finger gap. There is ability to adjust significantly higher or lower than this setting.





INSTALLED PICS:

A note on ride heights, you should expect that installing this kit on your car, be it a Civic, CRX or Integra, will lower it a significant amount. We have not yet tested max high adjustments yet, but we expect a 2.5 finger gap to be the highest you can reach. Do not expect a stock ride height to be available!



MEDIEVAL-PRO DAMPER KIT INSTALLED ON CRX:

My car is an 87 Si, original engine with small turbo kit. Full interior. I expect my car is in the median weight range we can expect to subject this kit to. Tires are Tires are 195-50-15, wheels are 15x6 +38 offset.

2-finger gap all around, reindexed 25mm torsions adjusted all the way to max high, 5 kg rear springs with rear coilovers adjusted to 3" above threaded collar base (yes, 3" more lowering is available, travel limit untested at this time.)






Slightly more than 1-finger gap all around, reindexed 25mm torsions adjusted to upper range of medium, 5 kg rear springs with rear coilovers adjusted to 3" above threaded collar base




BETTER IMAGES COMING SOON!!!!

#5
MrDisibility

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MEDIEVAL-PRO DAMPER KIT INSTALLED ON INTEGRA:

Matt from Hondata helped out in test fitting. His car represents the most heavy car we will likely be subjecting this kit to. B-series swap, full turbo kit, full interior. Tires are 205-50-15, wheels are 15x6.5 +38 offset. NOTE! The Medieval-Pro kit was not adjusted at all when swapping from my car to Matt's. Finger gaps were slightly smaller than on my car due to weight increase, but no significant change is needed. We deduce a very comparable height range adjustment with this kit from CRX to Integra, which should make you teg people happy. BTW, Matt's brake lines bolted up fine to CRX Konis, so I expect the should bolt up to the Medieval-Pros as well.





BEFORE I OUTLINE DRIVING DYNAMICS, LET'S TAKE A BREAK:

A pair of turbo's 1gs! Pure bliss.


Matt, diligently soldiering though a rear damper swap.





HOME-STRETCH! DRIVING IMPRESSIONS

We are not indicating ride heights in our driving impressions at this time. What we can say is, of the heights tested, we never bottomed out, topped out, or hit the ground (with conscious driving on steep driveways and big speed bumps).

We are going to indicate the spring rate used for your information. I will assemble another matrix that will lay out our suggestion for spring rate application based on desired driving dynamics.

CRX with 25mm torsions in front and 4kg springs in the back. Stock front sway bar, no additional sway in the rear. OPM Panhard bar: This is the setup for me. I fell in love with my car all over again. On the nasty Socal freeways, which have expansion joints, holes, cracks, trash, etc the suspension was very comfortable. All bumps handled appropriately. Not any drama, no funny noises. We even went over that bridge in Long Beach that Nick Cage jumped the Mustang on in Gone In 60 Seconds. This car drives just as a mildly upgraded stock car should during regular driving. Taking long hard on ramps and off ramps with suspension fully loaded, the car felt balanced, very stable, and safe. Minimal roll. Hit a bump mid-corner fully loaded, the suspension takes it well without stepping out in the front or back. That "disconnected floaty feeling" I always felt in the past is now GONE. Tinkering with the dampening adjustment will cause it to appear or disappear, depending on how you want the car to ride. But this is the one thing that unsettle me the most when driving, and I think the cost of the suspension is worth this benefit alone! DON'T SELL YOUR FRONT MEDIEVAL-PROS WITHOUT TRYING THEM OUT FIRST! Need to make a mid-corner adjustment? Go ahead. play with the throttle or the steering to adjust your line and the car responds predictable. Not twitchy at all, but I could push the car harder than before with more confidence. Perfect for a street-sports driver like myself with a need for a smoother ride.

Nakai revealed to me he preferred a softer more comfortable ride. I agree with him after trying the 4 kgs for myself. Do not make the error in assuming "softer" to mean "soft" though. The car felt very balanced and very controllable. Nakai took the wheel with this setup and really pushed the car. On one offramp that had some camber in it, he was going with the car fully loaded in 3rd gear, getting in the boost and lifting to induce over steer. It took 3 stabs, but he did get the back to step out with 4s in the back. When it broke it was soft without drama and easy for him to correct. Really it was more of a 4-wheel slide for a moment than pure over steer. I was impressed with how smooth it felt though.

CRX with 25mm torsions in front and 5kg springs in back. Stock front sway bar, no additional sway in the rear. OPM Panhard bar:: I believe I was correct in recommending this as the "out of the box" spring rate. The ride is noticeably firmer than stock, but not too hard. It still takes bumps very well, and with the dampening adjusted all the way soft the ride is very close to the ride on the 4 kg springs with a slight edge to it. I feel like this setup will add that performance edge that many of you experienced drivers will want, and that firmness than some of you younger guys will want. Either way, I was planning on adding a rear sway bar, but now I am not sure sure I need one. This car feels so good right now. All I need is an LSD to cure some power-induced under steer!

Integra with 27mm torsions in front and 5kg springs in back. Suspension Techniques sways front and rear, stock panhard bar: The long and the short here is the Integra with 5s felt like my CRX with 4s. I am not experienced with this car, but my brief drive left me with a feeling of confidence and stability with a great deal of comfort on the normal street. I could push the car a little and work the tires a little (again, not wanting to over-drive a car I was not familiar with was not a good idea) and feel that balance that I felt before. The ITR swap in this car did not feel heavy or unnatural. The 27mm torsions handled the weight very well, and I was very impressed with the stability the Medieval-Pro dampers had. We did not even play with the front damper settings because it felt so good. My recollection is that the damper was adjusted in the middle somewhere in the front. Clearly these dampers will handle 27mm or greater 29mm bars without any problems. We did experience contact between the rear shocks and the spring seat adapters since this car has a stock panhard bar. The resulting bottoming out made the feel pretty bad at the limit, but the dampers still did a great job of handling the excessively unnatural rebound. However, this issue will be resolved in production with a new seat adapter. In the end, we know that the Medieval-Pro dampers are a great solution for AV1 drivers now as well, better than I expected to be honest. Matt even mentioned himself that those with Konis should definitely weight the Medieval-Pros against them before making decisions to sell!





So, that's it! Fingers tired. Tummy grumbling. I will leave it open to comment now. I have 24 hours ti=o finalize the kit before it is put into production!

#6
LocDoc

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Wow,
Excellent job Bro
Momma said there be days like this

#7
PowerWheels86

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can't wait to save up some money and upgrade my suspension with these... ugh... i'm drooling... hahaha
Dark Side of the Power........
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QUOTE (RARECRX @ Jun 26 2009, 06:55 PM)
The ONLY BMW's I like are (Beautiful Mexican Women)

#8
SEEKERone

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Thank you Marcus...for all of your hard work and time on this project and for the excellent write up.

I am eagerly awaiting the next posts saying WHEN these will be ready for the rest of us.

BTW...I want one of those rear center panels like yours

#9
MrDisibility

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QUOTE (SEEKERone @ Jun 3 2007, 08:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thank you Marcus...for all of your hard work and time on this project and for the excellent write up.

I am eagerly awaiting the next posts saying WHEN these will be ready for the rest of us.

BTW...I want one of those rear center panels like yours




Well, about 60 days. late late late. I was just looking at the first posts. I put the first feeler thread out there A YEAR AGO! Thank you SO much to the people who have hung in there and been so patient!

#10
kcoddah77

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Very cool Marcus. Sweet write up. Thanks for busting your hump on this. I hope that when I come pick them up I can buy ya a beer and talk shop.

My questions are on the adjustment factor, and the brake line issue.

Adjustment
Are there clicks when you adjust the dampers, or is it smooth turns? Also, how do you know what setting you are on?

Brake lines
You said that tegheads should buy crx brake lines, but the test fit on Matt's car showed that they might possible bolt up with no issues. What do you think, is there going to have to be a brake line mod or not?

#11
rollz87civic

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dam i need a job so i can buy some TEINS
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RIP GLEN

#12
gustav129

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What was that budget? $86 every two weeks?
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Under steer is when you hit the wall with your front end.
Over steer is when you hit the wall with your rear end.
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall.
Torque is how far you move the wall.
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#13
MrDisibility

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QUOTE (kcoddah77 @ Jun 4 2007, 02:55 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Very cool Marcus. Sweet write up. Thanks for busting your hump on this. I hope that when I come pick them up I can buy ya a beer and talk shop.

My questions are on the adjustment factor, and the brake line issue.

Adjustment
Are there clicks when you adjust the dampers, or is it smooth turns? Also, how do you know what setting you are on?

Brake lines
You said that tegheads should buy crx brake lines, but the test fit on Matt's car showed that they might possible bolt up with no issues. What do you think, is there going to have to be a brake line mod or not?




Haha, sounds good.


There are clicks. You set by counting clicks.

I am unsure of the specifics on the teg line fitment. Ernie told me tegs are different but our test car was not able to verify.

Marcus

#14
E-AT_me

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thanks marcus, i'll have to see if i can get some money together now. hahahaa.
1986 Civic Si; b16a is in.. just gotta get it running..
longest swap ever..... :(

#15
ef91

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dude, .....wow, looks great..... i need to get that $$$$$..