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Rebuild Or New Motor?


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#1
brutus76

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I have an 87 SI that burns oil, especially when it is cold. I take it easy on it when it is warming up and it seems to go away once it gets up to temp. The car feels like it still has plenty of power and I drive it daily about 60 miles total. I recently did a headgasket and valve grind on the motor. The reson for doing the head was because my timing belt broke on the freeway. I feel that the cause of the oil consumption is coming from worn rings. Is there something that I could be missing?

 

I am a pretty experienced mechanic and own most of the tools besides a ring compressor.

 

Should I rebuild the bottom end or should I try to source a D16A1?

 

I work as a designer at a fab shop and have access to machine processes and I also weld at home. From what I have researched the large part of the cost involved in the swap is the engine mounts, which I could fabricate myself.



#2
rallyxcrx

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Were the valve seals changed? The lower end is easy to rebuild, if you decide to go that route, Dave 



#3
brutus76

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Were the valve seals changed? The lower end is easy to rebuild, if you decide to go that route, Dave 

 

The valve stem seals were replaced.....



#4
ballade

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Sounds like rings 

If you like the motor just rebuild it. 

if you want more performance there are options. 

A D16A1 isn't a huge gain due to the weight. mind you it's a better platform for more power. 



#5
brutus76

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Sounds like rings 

If you like the motor just rebuild it. 

if you want more performance there are options. 

A D16A1 isn't a huge gain due to the weight. mind you it's a better platform for more power. 

 

Kind of where I was leaning. I like the motor and it has plenty of power. I feel confident that I could get it done rather quickly. I also have a truck so it wouldn't hurt if it was down for a while.

 

Can anyone recommend a source for quality engine parts. I use Rock Auto but the last time they really got me in shipping due to shipping from various warehouses. Each one requires a different shipping charge.



#6
rallyxcrx

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I get my parts from a reputable seller on ebay, Dave 



#7
Richardcoto452th

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Sorry to butt in, but would you have a link to his eBay seller page rallyxcrx?

#8
rallyxcrx

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No, I just buy from a seller that has close to a 100 percent rating, Dave



#9
brutus76

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No, I just buy from a seller that has close to a 100 percent rating, Dave

 

Like I stated above... I did my Head gasket already. Is there a way to compress the pistons and insert them though the bottom?

 

I don't mind pulling the engine I just wanted to avoid doing the Headgasket again.



#10
rallyxcrx

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If it was possible, it probably wouldn't be practical due to cleaning, honing, and boring, Dave 



#11
brutus76

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I think that I am just going to replace the Valve Guide Seals. Since the valves are interference fit I think that I can just rotate each cylinder to TDC then remove the spring and replace the Seal.

 

My car just seems to have way too much power to be burning oil through the rings. I also tried the oil cap trick on the valve cover. It didn't seems to have any blow-by.

 

I will just keep checking the oil and refilling it. I will probably get around to it this weekend.



#12
Dirtcircle86

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Pistons will not come out the bottom.  I never thought of doing it that way but you'd have to pull the engine to even try it.  Only saving a HG.  I pulled my EW (threw a rod) apart a few days ago just for giggles and had the block sitting upside down on the bench.  After pulling the crank, I assumed I could just pull the remaining pistons out the bottom.  NOPE, there is aluminum block casting below the sleeves that denies them passage...... 



#13
Mark L

I would do a leak down test to see what is worn. I have seen loose guides wearing down valve seals. Usually a 25 year engine is worn everywhere.
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#14
brutus76

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So, I really haven't been doing much to this besides adding oil and driving it to work. I did get out to add oil to it tonight and noticed there was oil coming out the head around the head gasket on the back side of the motor. I don't think it has ever left any oil on the garage floor so I don' think that it is flowing out heavily,it is very noticeable though.

 

When I did the head gasket i used Felpro Gaskets and the copper gasket spray. I also went by the manual with the torque sequence and torque.

 

I am confused to see the oil on the outside is it possible that there was and oil path that was blocked? I made sure that the gasket was placed correctly when I  installed it.

 

I have not performed a leak-down test yet but I do own a gauge, just need to get my wife out there to crank it over while i check.

 

I would appreciate and advice/opinions... Thanks.



#15
brutus76

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I figured that I should check my compression, so here are the numbers. I went to compare the numbers to the forum and found out that I didn't do the damn test right (not with open throttle).

 

I will try again soon, my numbers are 145, 147, 150, 147. I watched the leak-down and it was about 8 psi/min.

 

The car starts instantly every morning and has plenty of power. So unless someone else sees something wrong with these numbers I think that I will focus on trying to change my valve stem seals before I tear the motor apart.